Distributor ID

[NevadaGravity]

I posted this in electrical but it seems to be more appropriate in this forum topic.
I have uninstalled the distributor from my 1969 f100 300 inline 6 and would like to replace the points with a Pertronix unit and instal a new vacuum advance on it but the part number on my dizzy has faded with age. To the best of my ability and using some carb clean it reads,
030f 12127 80
4010 Motorcraft
I don't think this is the correct number though.Any help identifying the distributor would be a big help, maybe someone has done this conversion or replaced the advance themselves and would like to share their experiences? I'm also trying to find a replacement vacuum advance with the dual nipples like the one from my tuck but I have stuck out looking. Thank you for your time, Dylan.

[sargentrs]

Rockauto has what you're looking for. However, I would ditch the dual port advance for a single port. The dual was for a vacuum retard system which hinders performance, IMHO.

[NevadaGravity]

I was looking at the rockauto products but it seemed that the breaker plate linkage on all of the units are radically different my unit has a flat straight linkage but those seem to have a curved or dog legged linkage. Would the vacuum timing retard save on the economy side of things? This truck is quickly becoming a daily driver.

[sargentrs]

I've been googling for an hour trying to find some information for you but I keep hitting a brick wall. I see advance cans in a variety of linkage configurations and I can't make any significant connection to a 300 I6. All I know is that the dual port vacuum can was an early attempt at reducing the amount of admissions by retarding timing on deceleration. In my book, anything emission related = reduced performance on an older vehicle. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

[NevadaGravity]

Thank you for your searching! I may just upgrade the entire dizzy at this point, go with something different like a dura spark ii.

[sargentrs]

Now you're talking! I install a Duraspark on all my vintage Fords.

[NevadaGravity]

I do like the system I became familiar with it in my 78 Ranchero with the 351m that I sold for the f100. This time I may look into the corisponding MSD box.

[NevadaGravity]

Would you happen to know of any tech articles that explain the conversion? When I think about it there were two wires running to the module from the ignition switch red and white, with the red wire being part of the balast resistor and starter bypass leg of the ignition. I'm not as familiar with the f100 system and I'm having trouble linking the two systems up in my head.

[sargentrs]

This is going to be long winded but easier that posting diagrams. Are you familiar with wiring a 12v relay? I always use a relay when wiring a Duraspark ignition. Here's how I would do it.

Go to Rockauto and select a 1977 F100 with your engine. Buy the electronic ignition distributor with cap and rotor. Buy the ignition control module LX203T, not high altitude with blue grommet plug and the coil to match. Go to a junk yard and get an ignition box/distributor wiring harness from a late 70a to early 80s Ford car or truck. You can also buy a new one from American Autowire for around $100. https://m.summitracing.com/parts/aww-50 ... gXEALw_wcB. I made my own and spent more than that on wire, connectors and soldering supplies.

Install a 30A 12v relay on the inner fender near your starter solenoid. Run an 10ga lead with a 30A in-line fuse from the battery to terminal 87 on the relay for your source voltage. Run a 12ga wire with a 1/4" ring terminal from terminal 85 on the relay for ground. Drill a 1/4" hole in your inner fender and using a 1/4"x 3/4" bolt, locknut and star washers ground the relay to the inner fender. Make sure the fender is clean of any gunk and the star washers bite into clean metal. Run a 12ga wire from terminal 30 on the relay to a ring terminal and connect it to the "I" terminal on the solenoid. Install your distributor and mount your ignition box on the driver's inner fender using rubber washers to hold the box off of the fender about 1/4" for air flow and vibration. You need air circulating under the box to keep it from overheating. The mounting holes in the box are threaded so bolt it from inside the fender using star washers under the head of the bolts. Make sure the fender is clean and the washers bite into clean metal.

Hook up the wiring harness to the box and the distributor. Make a red and a white wire with female spades on one end and rings on the other. You'll figure out the length from the rest of this write up. From the 2 prong plug on the harness run the white wire across the firewall and connect it to the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid. This retards your timing a hair when starting. From the red wire on the 2 prong plug run a 12ga wire across the firewall to the vicinity of the starter solenoid. At the end of this wire splice in another so you have a 1 into 2 connection wire with ring terminals on the ends. Run one of these to the "I" terminal on the solenoid and the other to the + terminal on the coil.

Locate the ignition harness coming from the firewall. http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... rging2.jpg It's the 3 prong plug with the temp sender and oil pressure sender. The 3rd prong is the ignition circuit. I think it's red/green. It'll be hot with key on. Cut off the end of the wire, leaving enough of the original end to splice to. Save this piece you cut off, I'll explain later. Install a bullet connector to the ignition wire and run it back to the firewall and across, down the passenger inner fender to your relay. Add on a female spade connector and connect it to terminal 86 on the relay. This is your trigger circuit.

Wiring everything this way leaves your original ignition circuit intact and provides a full 12v to the coil and distributor without having to mess with your ignition switch and the pink resistor wire. You can leave all of your original ignition wiring connected with no harm to anything. Now take that piece of wire I told you to Save and install a bullet connector on it where you cut it loose. Take your old points distributor, coil, plug wires and that wire and put them in a box and label it "emergency points ignition kit". If you ever have any problems with the Duraspark you can switch back to points with little effort. You'll need new plug wires because of the different distributor cap for the Duraspark. I recommend 8mm performance plug wires and increasing your plug gap to at least .035. You might have to increase your timing a few degrees too. Duraspark loves advance. I think I've covered everything. Once I post this and re-read it I might have to edit something. Read it over and see if you have any questions.

Everybody else please check me to see if I made any errors or left something out.

[sargentrs]

Oh yeah, and run the black ground wire from the distributor 3 prong plug to the - side of the coil. You wind up with 2 New wires on the "I" terminal on the solenoid and 2 wires on the + side of the coil. Here's a diagram I marked up for my Fairlane. The original wiring colors may not be the same for your truck but actually, I think they are.

[NevadaGravity]

That is some serious information! Thank you that's amazing!

[NevadaGravity]

Starting on it this weekend, will probably take me a few weeks to get the dough and parts together but I will make sure to take pictures and document my progress. Starting my build post this weekend to share the experience with everyone.

[sargentrs]

... but I will make sure to take pictures and document my progress....

Looking forward to it! I've done the Duraspark swap 2 times and always forget to take photos