Modern Oils and FE Engines

Engine, ignition, fuel, cooling, exhaust

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MadJoe
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Re: Modern Oils and FE Engines

Post by MadJoe »

Dang, that's over $11 a quart. I just grabbed a 6 pack of this Vavoline high-zinc racing oil. Hopefully it's as good, or better.
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Re: Modern Oils and FE Engines

Post by Clunker »

:yt: What 69Ford said!

I did a lot of research about oil when I first bought my F250 and found that Amsoil's Z-Rod is the best choice. If you sign up for their frequent buyer program (if it still exists), the price drops significantly. Their rep told me a couple years ago that Z-Rod 10W-30 is the best thing you can put in an FE. I just spent $20 on a zinc additive at O'Reilly's, plus another $47 for their cheapest full synthetic because I needed it done this week and there aren't any Amsoil dealers near here. Ouch!
1970 F250 CS: 360, RV cam, Edelbrock Performer 390 intake, Holley 600, headers, Pertronix II, Flamethrower coil.
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Re: Modern Oils and FE Engines

Post by Jacksdad »

Honestly, whatever's cheapest without resorting to something shady like Walmart's Supertech brand. I'm running Rotella 15/40 right now, but not for any particular reason. One rule I do have is never to use a Fram filter.
While we're talking oil - has anyone tried Pennzoil's Platinum synthetic? It's made from natural gas apparently, and is touted as keeping engine parts cleaner than other brands. I ran it twice (not in an FE) and the oil turned black so fast both times - you could tell it was pulling sludge and deposits off the inside of the motor. I'd have tried it again but it's not cheap (it was on sale the first couple of times). Didn't get any indication that the oil pickup screen was blocking, but I guess that could be a consideration on a really gummed up motor.
1971 DRW F350 cab and chassis with an Open Road motorhome conversion, Dana 70, 352 (originally 390)/C6, PS, power front discs, and 159" w/b.
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Re: Modern Oils and FE Engines

Post by cstoyer »

I run Brad Penn in my engines that need the higher Zinc Levels.

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Re: Modern Oils and FE Engines

Post by UP Farmer »

MadJoe wrote:Dang, that's over $11 a quart. I just grabbed a 6 pack of this Vavoline high-zinc racing oil. Hopefully it's as good, or better.
A buddy of mine told me to use this (Valvoline VR-1) that you mention.
He was a professional engine rebuilder for over 20 years.
So, that's what goes in my 390 in my 71 Truck.
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Re: Modern Oils and FE Engines

Post by Darren »

It doesn't matter what brand or type of oil you use. Any modern oil will be perfectly welcome in your engine. This matter has been laid to rest repeatedly, but keeps rising like a zombie. There are plenty of good engineering studies available to explain all the intricacies.

This topic stirs up more debate than religion or politics. Follow the evidence, not those who stand to profit from your ignorance.
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Re: Modern Oils and FE Engines

Post by Ohiotinkerer »

Darren wrote:It doesn't matter what brand or type of oil you use. Any modern oil will be perfectly welcome in your engine. This matter has been laid to rest repeatedly, but keeps rising like a zombie. There are plenty of good engineering studies available to explain all the intricacies.

This topic stirs up more debate than religion or politics. Follow the evidence, not those who stand to profit from your ignorance.

I trust engineers about as much as I trust politicians.............both are put on this earth to make my life miserable....... :hw:
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Re: Modern Oils and FE Engines

Post by colnago »

Darren wrote:It doesn't matter what brand or type of oil you use. Any modern oil will be perfectly welcome in your engine. This matter has been laid to rest repeatedly, but keeps rising like a zombie. There are plenty of good engineering studies available to explain all the intricacies.

This topic stirs up more debate than religion or politics. Follow the evidence, not those who stand to profit from your ignorance.
But what about the zinc? Additive or not?

Joseph
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Re: Modern Oils and FE Engines

Post by Ranchero50 »

Yes, or maybe no... Really depends on what cam grind you are running and if they were broken in correctly. Radical flat tappet lifter cams are hard on oil. Roller lifters don't care. Look at the engine combos that eat cams during break in. Very seldom does it happen with a mild engine combo.
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Re: Modern Oils and FE Engines

Post by Ohiotinkerer »

colnago wrote:
Darren wrote:It doesn't matter what brand or type of oil you use. Any modern oil will be perfectly welcome in your engine. This matter has been laid to rest repeatedly, but keeps rising like a zombie. There are plenty of good engineering studies available to explain all the intricacies.

This topic stirs up more debate than religion or politics. Follow the evidence, not those who stand to profit from your ignorance.
But what about the zinc? Additive or not?

Joseph

Like I posted before I would rather err on the safe side and put an additive in - especially if you're running a motor like mine with only 81,500 miles and has never been apart.....to me it only makes sense because it was built in an era where oil had a high zinc content compared to nowadays and just because I have to run crappy gas - which i also add Lucas products to - at least i don't have to shortcut on my oil. With the Lucas stuff I use in the oil it's a cheap form of insurance to me - adds about $8 per oil change compared to the possible cost and time of changing engine internals....... :eek:
"Life is a garden - dig it"........... :thup:

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Re: Modern Oils and FE Engines

Post by Ranchero50 »

I think it comes down to run what you are comfortable with. I'll stick with the cheap stuff. Supertech hasn't left me down yet on the industrial stuff. I might run the synthetic on the Jag though since it's 100hp/L for a 4.2L vs 30hp/L for a 360.

Use and duty...
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Re: Modern Oils and FE Engines

Post by Ohiotinkerer »

Ranchero50 wrote:I think it comes down to run what you are comfortable with. I'll stick with the cheap stuff. Supertech hasn't left me down yet on the industrial stuff. I might run the synthetic on the Jag though since it's 100hp/L for a 4.2L vs 30hp/L for a 360.

Use and duty...
Exactly - I run Castrol 10W40 in the bump with additives and Royal Purple in the CBR and Vulcan just because of that reason......
"Life is a garden - dig it"........... :thup:

1968 F100 2wd - Rangoon Red - 360 w/T18 - power steering and brakes
1997 Honda CBR 900RR
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Re: Modern Oils and FE Engines

Post by Lone Ranger »

My dad has had his dent highboy with a 390 for over 20 years as a daily driver. He has never run additives or expensive oil. He just runs whatever oil he finds and the truck still runs like a top. He pulls trailers and plows snow and drives it everywhere. He takes care of it though and doesn't rag on it or do burn outs or anything. These motors are pretty resilient and will eat any oil you put in them if you treat it right.
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Re: Modern Oils and FE Engines

Post by Jacksdad »

I've read numerous articles about Supertech being everything from Mobil to Quaker State in a plain wrapper, and I've used it when nothing else is to hand, but I lean toward something with a name I recognize for oil changes. Rotella is only a couple of dollars more at Walmart, as are any number of big name brands. I'm pickier with filters than oil, to be honest (anything but Fram).
1971 DRW F350 cab and chassis with an Open Road motorhome conversion, Dana 70, 352 (originally 390)/C6, PS, power front discs, and 159" w/b.
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Re: Modern Oils and FE Engines

Post by Ohiotinkerer »

Jacksdad,
What's your filter of choice? I'm the same way about Fram - been using Motorcraft on my stuff for quite a while with good results - just being curious....... :D
"Life is a garden - dig it"........... :thup:

1968 F100 2wd - Rangoon Red - 360 w/T18 - power steering and brakes
1997 Honda CBR 900RR
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