Electronic Ignition? HEI Distributor or Conversion

[Subzero]

So I need to bypass the punk wire directly to battery voltage ? Where should I bypass it to that would be ideal? Wiring is not my strong point

[Ranchero50]

I pulled the instrument cluster and ash tray, then pealed the cover off the wire loom and isolated the pink wire. It goes into a multi tap on both ends. I just redid both of them with a straight wire for the ignition 'on'. It was just a length of wire from a spare harness that I soldered in place.

[Subzero]

Last time I put a coil on I thought it didn't have one so I had two ballast resistors in place, still ran and drove fine and I was clueless about the existing built in one. Wonder if it would work still with electronic ignition, but I'll have to get to that when the truck is done being painted and I haven't even go the engine to the shop yet

[sargentrs]

I used a 12v relay and used the original ignition circuit as the trigger source to pull directly from the battery. That way I didn't have to modify any of the original wiring.

[colnago]

Following....Hey Joseph (Colnago) what type did you go with PerTronix I or PerTronix II . I am looking into making the swap in the next few weeks. 40,000v flamethrower coil and 8mm wires?

I think I just went with the Pertronix I. It came in a "kit" with a Flamethrower coil, for about $100 on ebay.

I'll have to check my wiring. Coulda sworn I bypassed the pink wire, and that it was during ignition that it needed the full 12V. But it's been a few years ...

Joseph

[sargentrs]

I bought the Igniter II and it's the one that crapped out on me twice. My understanding is the only difference between the I and II was that the II had circuitry built in so that you could leave the ignition in the "on" position and not fry the module, whereas the I would cook if the key was left on.

[Subzero]

That's not good to hear after spending $100 on the II, if the Ignitor I is better I'll just return this one and get that. I figured the Pertronix is cheaper than buying a distributor, box, and the wiring, but that only if it doesn't fail. Maybe if I just leave the ballast resistor in line that would help it to not cook off? I'm not sure how voltage will be affected to the Ignitor if I do that.

[sargentrs]

It's a roll of the dice no matter which way you go. With the plethora of Chinese parts out there, quality is always in question. In a stock application, I personally prefer Duraspark. If you make your own harness, you'll have about $150 in it. If you can find a harness in a salvage yard, even less. If I had a performance application, I'd probably go with a full blown all in one "ready to run" MSD HEI distributor. That's just because of the huge support circle out there in the performance community. There again, you'll find people that say they're crap and you should use Accel or Mallory. All I can suggest is that if you stick with the Pertronix, follow the instructions to the letter including testing it afterwards like they suggest. Any variation, including a different coil, and they may give you grief over the warranty.

[DuckRyder]

My issue with pertronix and the like is that you're still dealing with a 40 year old distributor or a cheesy rebuilt that may or may not be correct for the engine...

I did run a crane conversion for a while and it worked ok, but I'm not sure they still make them...

[Busboy]

I just couldn't bring myself to "soil" a Ford engine with a Delco Remy distributor. They look hideous.

[Subzero]

I'll try to roll with it for now, but I'll keep some spare points in the glove box. Speaking of points, I feel like the ones you can get at the auto parts store are not good quality in the first place. I've had some that lasted a long time and others just quit after a few hundred miles. Summit sells some points that are made by Acel I think, might be more reliable than cheaper ones.

[sargentrs]

Usually it's the condenser that craps out on me. Points are only damaged/worn out if the contact points are burnt. A good filing or sanding can correct that easily. The quality of the condensers you buy these days is sorely lacking.

[Subzero]

That too, I've actually swapped out the "new" condenser before in a truck that failed early after buying it and put the "old" one back in, don't know how old it was but it lasted until I sold the truck and never gave me fits. I usually have problems with the gap closing up from the little plastic wear shoe on the points and not knowing until it almost leaves me stranded. Lack of maintence on my part maybe

[Zorm]

I just picked up a Pertronix II system and was wondering if we can put a larger stock distributor cap and rotor on the stock 360 distributor. I thought I saw like something from mid 80's early 90's v8? Like a extension and the larger cap?

[sargentrs]

I just picked up a Pertronix II system and was wondering if we can put a larger stock distributor cap and rotor on the stock 360 distributor. I thought I saw like something from mid 80's early 90's v8? Like a extension and the larger cap?

They do make them. Go to the parts store and tell them to look up a 1975 or 1976 F-100 with a 360 and electronic ignition. The cap should be in stock. Not sure about that plastic cap extension housing though. May be special order. On my Fairlane I did have to re-bend my fuel line to get around it though.