So I have this 1969 Ford F100 with the 240 CID in it. She's only got 21,000 original miles on her so doesn't get driven nearly enough. Recently the oil light started coming on at an idle. The oil didn't have many miles on it but it was really old so I just changed it. Didn't help. Still have the oil light coming on at idle. I suspect sludge clogging the oil pump intake and I would like to take a look. Before I go start trying to drop the oil pan, can someone tell me if you can actually just unbolt it and remove it as the truck sits or do I need to do some other things first?
Thanks!
Oil Pan removal
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Re: Oil Pan removal
IIRC, the pan can be dropped but you'll have to reach in and unbolt the oil pump and pickup tube for the pan to be withdrawn.
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Re: Oil Pan removal
Thank you! I got all the pan bolts out. It's loose but I had to move on to other things. I will hit it again tomorrow. Now I just need to figure out where exactly those pump bolts etc. are. I am starting to worry that its going to be a real pain to get it all back together. Am I right?
Thanks!
Thanks!
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Re: Oil Pan removal
There are some very good pictures in this thread of the 300ci 6.
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... hp?t=77609
Oil pump is roughly in the middle.
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... hp?t=77609
Oil pump is roughly in the middle.
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
- sargentrs
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Re: Oil Pan removal
You're better off lifting the engine with a hoist or jacking it up and blocking under the motor mounts. That way you'll have clearance to slide the pan backwards and clear the front crossmember. Removing the oil pump bolts and dropping the pump to get the pan off isn't too bad but putting it all back together that way is a royal pain.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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Re: Oil Pan removal
Thanks for the info everyone. This helps. 

- hillcountryflt
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Re: Oil Pan removal
Seems like I recall you need to lift the engine about the height of a 2x4 to get the clearance necessary to remove the oil pan. I would like to replace the oil pan gasket on my 69 with a 240, but its a big chore for relatively small drip.
One other thing, might consider going to the "modern" oil pan gasket when putting it back together. You will need to grind down the raised edges on the holes (where the bolts go through) on the oil pan to smooth them out, but that rubber gasket with its outer ridge sure seems better than the stock cork gasket. I did this on my 71 after having the engine rebuilt.
One other thing, might consider going to the "modern" oil pan gasket when putting it back together. You will need to grind down the raised edges on the holes (where the bolts go through) on the oil pan to smooth them out, but that rubber gasket with its outer ridge sure seems better than the stock cork gasket. I did this on my 71 after having the engine rebuilt.
1971 F100 Custom SB Flareside;
2016 Explorer;
2020 F150
2016 Harley Ultra Limited
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Re: Oil Pan removal
Um, did you make sure it's not just the oil pressure sending unit that's gone bad? Probably worth the $5 to change anyway.