#50: 1972 F250 8,100lb GVW Disc Brakes (Tons of Photos)

[72stepside]

Bushings? What bushings?

Seriously, NONE of that was on my 71- F250 when I took the front apart. Guess I get to re-do it now.

[rjewkes]

hmm, kinds makes me wonder on an f100 with S/N P45209 as to what parts are actualy from '73?

perhaps they press in? or just the rubber will work? maybe the metal ring is there for you to oversize that hole? i have replaced calipers on chevies and some 80's ford cars where the new caliper's mounting holes where oversized due to cleanup boring of the hole so they sold me oversized bolts for it and some sleeves to boot.

[fireguywtc]

Bushings? What bushings?

Seriously, NONE of that was on my 71- F250 when I took the front apart. Guess I get to re-do it now.

Chris, I am glad I can help! My set up is off a 71 also, so this should be the same.

rjewkes, thanks for the reply, I was thinking the same thing you are except for the part where the orginal stuff that came with it use to fit. It was in there when I got it, now I can't get it back in there.

[fireguywtc]

I realize now this question/problem is in the wrong section, I looked up this thread under my old posts, so I made a new thread here:

http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 14#p382714

[guhfluh]

Robroy, That looks fantastic, you have really done great job collection all the info. I need and more.

To be honest I have been busy and put off working on the brakes for some time now, but I don't need them right now either so it has not been a priority. I do need to get those bushings and such since for some reason I could not get the old ones to go in.

Hey Bill! Glad you liked the info buddy!

If your anchor arms originally had four of those rubber bushings in the metal sleeves, you'll want NAPA part number 82116A. Regarding getting those guys pressed in to the anchor plate, a few things come to mind; please forgive me if these are already obvious to you.

1. My most hearty suggestion, in addition to whatever other method you use, is to apply Permatex Thread Lock Red (the strongest, most permanent type) on both the metal sleeves and the indents in the anchor arm before pressing them in. Then wait 24 hours before driving in the caliper bolts.
2. Try again with brand new bushings from NAPA kit 82116A. I'll bet that will be the solution, since the new metal sleeves are pristine.
3. Try tapping the bushings in with a 9/16" socket on the end.
4. Get the seats inside the anchor arm (where the metal sleeves pushes in to) as immaculate as possible. I spent a good while cleaning mine out with rags and brake cleaner--there was a lot of rust in there.
5. You may want to carefully run a rotary tool inside the indents to clean them out more effectively.
6. As you know, the bushings have an open side and a side that's curved over the edge of the rubber part to retain it. Ensure you're installing them so the open side faces the inside of the anchor arm.
7. You could try using a file to bevel off the edge of the metal sleeve. The risk here is that it could make it more difficult for the sleeve to stay in, once installed.

The thread lock will act as a lube when it's wet that might help them slide in, and once it dries, it will keep them from scooting out when you drive the caliper bolt through. I had this problem on mine and this solved it! It could be worth picking up a tube of that stuff (the Permatex "Red" formula) in case you hit this issue.

Note that although this happened to me while installing the caliper bolts, I can imagine it happening down the road in response to movements of the disc brake floating assembly (if that puts any friction on those bushings). I think this is a non-issue after a few years since the metal sleeves will rust solid

Robroy

How tight are you guys caliper mounting pins inside the later style caliper mount bushings? I have brakes from a 73 and I'm having problems with caliper drag. I'm also having trouble keeping the metal bushing shells inside the caliper mounting bracket. On a couple, the bushings stay in fine, but they are not perfectly round because the caliper mounting bracket holes aren't perfectly round and have dings. I'm thinking these dings are causing the bolts to seize and not allow the caliper to slide as it should. But...even putting a bushing without a shell onto a caliper bolt doesn't want to slide at all and is a very tight fit.

Should I try to "hone" out the bushings some? I will also deburr and sand the bolts with some Emory to make sure they're good.