I have a 68 F100 SWB with a Dana / Spicer 60.3 rear end. I just finished replacing the axle bearings and both seals on both sides. I was wondering if anyone knows the torque specs on the bearing retainer nuts on the axle flange? I have the shop manual but I am still confused by the specs because I cannot find my exact axle.
This is the spec list for the Ford axle:
This is another list I found in the manual just not sure if its the right part:
And this is the list for the Dana axles but doesn't list the 60.3 and does not have a spec for the bearing retainer nuts:
If the second list is the most applicable I am also not sure which size I have. The axle retainer nuts use a 3/4" to remove but I an not sure what size the bolts are.
After completing the reinstallation of the axles I also plan to replace the differential fluid and inspect the third member. I also have a few questions regarding this.
1) What type of lubricant? The manual only states "Ford hypoid gear oil" and does not give any other specs.
2) The tag on the housing states "USE LIMITED SLIP DIFF. LUBE ONLY" I am assuming this means to use friction modifiers but the manual does not specify this either.
3) When replacing the cover should I use the gasket (which is available at a local parts store), RVT, or both.
In my searches I have not found specific answers, at least with a consensus, to any of these questions.
Not sure if I have the same axle or not, but I just did the same on my '67 F250. The bearing nuts are 2-3/16, not 2-9/16, and the axles are rated for 5200lbs. Given that, this is what I found:
The inner nut is torqued 50 - 80 ft-lbs (I split the difference, and torqued to 65 ft-lbs), then backed off 3/8 revolutions. Then the lock washer. Then the outer nut torqued to 100 ft-lbs. I got these specs from my Chilton's manual. When I first took the axle apart, the inner nut wasn't even finger-tight.
The eight outer bolts (which were nuts on my axle, threaded onto studs coming out of the hub) were torqued to 50 ft-lbs.
As for gear oil, I don't do any towing, so I used Mobil 1 synthetic 75W-90. It came with friction modifier already added, so I didn’t add any. On the gasket question, I just used a Felpro paper gasket (I think it was blue. I picked it up from AutoZone, and it was just the standard one). The PO used a fiber gasket, and glued it to the diff housing. What a $#@%&-ing mess! Took me two hours to scrape it off! Torque specs on the cover bolts are 35 ft-lbs.
Hope this helps,
Joseph
"Sugar", my 1967 Ford F250 2WD Camper Special, 352FE, Ford iron "T" Intake with 1405 Edelbrock, Duraspark II Ignition, C6 transmission, front disc brake conversion.
Joseph, thanks for the input. This is a different axle. The Dana/Spicer 60.3 is a semi-floating 5-lug axle in the light duty trucks. Based on your description you have the full-floating Dana 60 that was used in the heavy duty trucks. The bolts that hold the axle flange on are locking nuts so I am sure I can just snug them down real good and it will be fine. However, the shop manual states "torque to specs" and specifically states not to overtighten so I just want to be sure I don't screw it up.
I won't do any towing with this truck, I have another for that. I was also thinking about using synth with the friction modifier added. I replaced all the seals so I think it should be okay to go with synth. However, I read somewhere (don't remember where) it was best to stick with conventional on "old" vehicles. I also generally prefer gaskets to RTV. It seems soooo many people use RTV for the diff cover these days. I can get that same FelPro gasket here locally.
