ThinLizzy's '67 F250 CS

[ThinLizzy13]

Things have finally slowed down around here and I can start putting some attention into my "new" truck! 1967 F250 custom cab Camper Special. 70k original miles, 352 v8, NP435, and 4.10 gears out back.
The truck seems to be fairly unmolested. As far as I can tell the second battery wiring has been unhooked, the heater core removed, and there's a newish looking clutch fork. Other than that everything looks pretty 67 inside.

Anyway here's some pics of the truck in my friend's barn...excited to actually have concrete underneath a vehicle I'm working on .



Topper looks a tad small...





Dealer name plate





Came with a grill guard!



Plans as of now are
#1 fix the clutch
#2 repair passenger side floor pan
#3 new rag joint
#4 trace all the wiring and inspect the brakes

Long term plan is keep it largely stock and *hopefully* one day have it repainted original coloring. Only modern things I may add is a stereo system and A/C so the wife will ride in it on hot SC summer days.

[ThinLizzy13]

I'll start off by saying I've driven mainly standard vehicles my whole life but I have never worked on a clutch. I've been reading my 67 shop manual and surfing the web so hopefully this goes relatively smoothly.

Issue #1. Clutch doesn't work.
Upon closer inspection I found that...
- clutch fork isn't seated in throw out bearing
- wrong return spring for clutch fork (too long)
- dust cover on bottom of bellhousing missing
- the "clutch fingers" seem to be pretty mashed
Good news is that it's the correct clutch fork for 67.

Snapped some pics the best I could by sticking my phone up through the dust cover area...

I think this is the throw out bearing?



I dunno if the fingers should look like this?



I'm not quite sure how the clutch fork ended up totally behind the throw out bearing. The plan so far is to drop the trans this weekend. Get a look at what's going on in there. Since I'm going through all the trouble to remove everything I'm thinking I will replace the clutch and related parts and make sure everything's correct. Then I'll change the trans fluid and take a gander inside to make sure it's all good before I put everything back together.

If anyone has any tips/insight for me I'm all ears.
Thanks!

[Busboy]

I can't make out the first picture but the second one clearly shows worn out pressure plate fingers. It looks like a " borg & beck" style pressure plate. I think you'll be happier with a diaphragm style pressure plate when you go back together. The pedal effort is less and it is smoother. Be sure and have the flywheel resurfaced.
I have a 67 F-250 hi-boy with a 352 and N.P. 435, no power brakes though.

[ThinLizzy13]

Thanks for the tip on the fly wheel. I prolly would've missed that You're a lucky dude, I'd love to have a highboy.

Trans / bell housing covered is so much crud. Also my trans support looks like someone decided to cut part off...





Uncovered the NP logo. I used to do some temp work at one of their plants before they pulled out of Syracuse NY...

[Busboy]

Only a knucklehead would have cut that crossmember like that. They must have wanted a dual exhaust really bad. That motor and trans have enough torque to fold that crossmember in half. Good luck finding a replacement.

[Busboy]

Those new process 435's are bulletproof. Easy to rebuild too.

[ThinLizzy13]

Only a knucklehead would have cut that crossmember like that. They must have wanted a dual exhaust really bad. That motor and trans have enough torque to fold that crossmember in half. Good luck finding a replacement.

Yea not sure what the PO was thinking... It has stock exhaust on it now, and it looks like it's been on there for quite a while. Whoever did it welded some thick steel bars to reinforce the x-member. I'm going to get some plate to weld into that hole.

Here's some pics of the clutch in all it's glory...





The flywheel, teeth don't look bad.





Clutch fork is a little worn down from the bearing spinning on it. I have the later style bellhousing and fork (the not anti rattle spring type) that I'm toying with putting in instead. Dunno if it would make a difference.



Everything under there is GRIMEY. I got a lot of cleaning to do. On the plus side the oil/grime protected all the paint.



Rear main isn't leaking at all so that's good. I didn't really wanna jump into that.

[ThinLizzy13]

This is the tranny AFTER I scraped at it for about 30 mins.

[Ranchero50]

This is a good example of why you should buy a good throw out bearing. Although it looks like it's been in there forever.

[popeyes71]

It's amazing the amount of gunk that builds up over time!

[ThinLizzy13]

It's amazing the amount of gunk that builds up over time!

You can say that again! I'll try to get a pic of the back of the engine. Looks like the back of the valve covers have been leaking and pretty much blanketed the back of the engine/bellhousing/trans over time. Which of course made an excellent sticky surface for twigs, pine needles, and various other sorts of crud.

As of now I'm cleaning up all the parts/ inspecting them and taking the flywheel to get resurfaced. I ended up going with another Borg and beck style clutch because It only ended up running me 60 bucks. Hope to have it all cleaned up and back in the truck in the next month or so

[Busboy]

My left valve cover was leaking even after I replaced the gasket. I replaced the rear main seal twice before finally finding the source of the problem. Those sheet metal valve covers are pretty flimsy. The oil was running forward along the head to block seam, then running down the oil pan rail to the back of the pan.

[ThinLizzy13]

My left valve cover was leaking even after I replaced the gasket. I replaced the rear main seal twice before finally finding the source of the problem. Those sheet metal valve covers are pretty flimsy. The oil was running forward along the head to block seam, then running down the oil pan rail to the back of the pan.

Wow I would definitely be crying after all that work. That sucks. At least your rear main is good

Here's a pic of my trans input shaft. A guy over on FTE said I should replace it. Where the throw out bearing sits is worn and nicked.



I'm sure it's posted elsewhere on here but the part number is C5TZ7017B replaced by D7TZ7017C. I found decently priced ones searching under the spicer part # WT-29116-J

[Busboy]

It wouldn't hurt to replace the input shaft bearing retainer but I've certainly seen much worse.

[ThinLizzy13]

Yea I just realized the retainer is a separate part from the input shaft