Help removing C6 with engine out

[patrickdotryan]

Hi guys,

In a separate post I noticed that while rebuilding my motor, the trans was very leaky (from pan, shift linkage and maybe more). So with the motor already out I'm going to pull the trans. Just looking for help to make sure my plan is right:

1. Loosen whole pan and drain trans (no drain plug). Re snug pan bolts.
2. Rotate torque converter til drain plug is at bottom, loosen plug and drain 6qts.
3. Disconnect speedo cable, shift linkage and vacuum tube.
4. Put trans jack under trans pan and secure. Snug up.
5. Unbolt front cross member and remove.
6. Disconnect cooler lines at trans (?)
7. Remove dipstick tube (don't know how to do this)
8. Remove bolt from rear cross member.
9. (Any other bolts?)
10. Roll trans jack and trans forward and (it will slide off the drive shaft?)

Please add, remove or correct to help.

I'm planning on putting the trans on the motor and putting it back in one piece if I can find a hoist high enough to clear the radiator support. I'm assuming dry weight will be less than 1000lbs with everything bolted onto it (?).

Patrick

[sargentrs]

Unless something's been modified, isn't your front x/m riveted in? Won't be that easy.

[patrickdotryan]

Hi Randy, thanks for the reply. Since mine had a C6 from the factory it has a bolt-in front cross member and the removable transmission hump cover. I'm hoping not to need the removable trans cover as that would mean pulling up my flooring. But the cross member looks like it will unbolt and move forward. Easier because I have no engine in place. I think even if it was riveted in place since the trans is coming forward I could probably manhandle it over that cross member but that would mean taking it off the trans jack. With the cross member out I can hopefully just roll it forward. Patrick

[sargentrs]

Good deal! Let us know how it goes for you.

[patrickdotryan]

Well Randy, that didn't go do smoothly! The front trans crossmember bolts came out no problem but I can't get the cross member out. Sliding it forward it jams really hard because the frame starts to tilt up. This way it also hits the brake distribution block before it clears. I tried moving it backwards but it seems like it will just jam that way too. Which way is it supposed to come out? I just spent hours lying on my back and swearing so I really need some help. I have been using a sledge hammer so I'm not being shy! Thanks. Patrick

[sargentrs]

I'm afraid I'm not going to be much help here. My radius arm brackets are riveted to both the x/m and the frame rail http://www.fordification.com/forum/down ... &mode=view But then, mine was originally a 302/3 spd truck. I had no problem pulling both engine and transmission together, and transmission alone, without messing with the x/m. Hmmm...I guess that's why I see so many trucks on here with that x/m CUT out Maybe somebody else with a little more experience in that area can chime in.

[patrickdotryan]

Thanks Randy. I'll start a new thread since I need to do it today. I'll repost here once I get an answer so this thread is complete. Patrick

[sargentrs]

Are your radius arm brackets riveted to your transmission x/m? How about posting a pic of what you've got going on so we can all be sure of what you're dealing with.

[patrickdotryan]

The xm was bolted under the top lip of the frame rail and bolted to the radius arm brackets. It is now loose. But it won't come forward because a) the radius arms ramp upward making the passage too narrow top to bottom and b) it hits the brake lines and distribution block.

If I slide it backwards it would move backwards but I think the width of the top means it wouldn't drop below the lower lip of the frame rails.

Anyone done this before? Which way should it come out. I'm at a grinding halt. Patrick

image.jpg

[patrickdotryan]

Thanks for the help Randy. I sorted out a workaround, which I posted in the other thread with some photos (link below). Short story is the front crossmember couldn't come out so I slid it backward. Patrick

https://fordification.com/forum/viewtop ... 83#p695883

[Brokenarrow]

If you ever remove the front clip to pull & install a motor/tranny, you'll never do it any other way. So much easier.

[fordchris47]

its difficult but that cross member will come out you just got to keep at it, I've had mine out twice and I have a 390 with a c6

[patrickdotryan]

Thanks fordchris47. For those following along. How did you get it out? If I move none forward it hits the brake distribution block. If I move it backward it slides back but it won't drop down. The x/m is bolted inside the top return of each frame rail. So it is wider then the space between the frame rails. As such, it will move down but it is wider than the gap between the lower returns so it just stays loosely in there. If I try and pull one end toward the front of the truck it is longer than the space allows so it can't rotate that way. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Patrick

[fordchris47]

Getting to the top bolts were harder than pulling it out. My motor is out too, push up on the pass side and push it forward while working the drivers side back. Putting it back in is just as much fun. Good luck.