Brake line double flares- Got fed up!

[Madman]

I finally got some time to work on my truck a bit, routing the brake lines......started to created my double flares and kept pushing the tube down, seemingly regardless of how tight the screws were cranked down, or even putting it in my vise.....so I figure time was also money, so I ordered one of the new Eastman Double Flaring tool. I will let you know if it was worth the $$$$ when I get it!

[vossy]

Being a total novice (had never flared a brake line ever prior to my disc brake project), what I found to contribute most to a solid & non-leaky connection was the pre-work. By pre-work, I mean making sure the cut of the brake line was square and flat, and that the inside had been deburred really well, and that the outside of the tubing had a really solid 35-45 degree chamfer.. When I started paying extra attention to all of that pre-flare work, it seemed like I couldn't make a bad flare. Also a friend gave me a good tip, give the end a tiny little shot of WD-40/PB Blaster, right before you're going to start the flaring process, that helps too.

I just used a cheap double flare set from Oreilly ($22). I think I re-did every connection at least 3 times until I realized the pre-work stuff was so important..

[elgemcdlf]

Not knowing your process I will say this much. The adapter used for the first part of the process when flipped upside down you will notice it has a step in it. This is the amount of line you want sticking out of the clamp.

What was said in the previous post holds true.

[Madman]

The issue I always run into was the pushing down of the tube due to trying to complete the first flare...The line will be chewed up due to it slipping past the knurls. Regardless of how tight the clamps were (I even put it in a vice) and all the pre-work/set up was fine......

[ultraranger]

As a word of caution, if you're going to 'lubricate' the tubing while flaring it, I wouldn't use WD-40 or any other penetrating oil. If you're going to lubricate the flare, use brake fluid.

Penetrating oils are petroleum-based. Brake fluid isn't petroleum-based, it's synthetic. Brake component seals/cups will swell/split if petroleum-based oils get to them/on them.

[dantheman71]

I have the Eastwood tool, I find it great, even on stainless. The only trick I found was that it is best to use a chop saw for cuts, not a tubing cutter. The tubing cutter crushes the tube enough that it makes it less malleable and it will get brittle and break rather than make a nice flare.

Having said that I've only used stainless and it is likely not an issue on steel lines

[dantheman71]

I should add

I got fed up too!!

[Madman]

Works friggin' awesome, don't it!

[Madman]

As a word of caution, if you're going to 'lubricate' the tubing while flaring it, I wouldn't use WD-40 or any other penetrating oil. If you're going to lubricate the flare, use brake fluid.

Penetrating oils are petroleum-based. Brake fluid isn't petroleum-based, it's synthetic. Brake component seals/cups will swell/split if petroleum-based oils get to them/on them.

Eastwood has you using Ant seize......anyone else ever use this?

[BobbyFord]

I used steel Bundyweld tubing and zero lube and the flares were awesome.

[ultraranger]

I put a LITTLE Anti-Seize on the flare nut threads, leaving the first couple of leading threads uncoated.

Makes it much easier, years later, to unscrew the flare nut without having to destroy it to get it loose.

[tqwrench]

Since I stumbled on NiCopp, I switched and never looked back. This stuff will be the replacement for steel brake lines in the future. It's DOT approved for brake pressure and works and bends like soft copper. I'm not shilling for this particular manufacturer, it's just the only one I can find that sells 90/10 copper-nickel alloy pipe in the US. It's a bit pricey but the amount of grief it has saved me is worth it. It is also called Kunifer pipe.