No turning back now....

[moonhanger007]

About three weeks ago my poor old bump with 146000 on the clock finally started running like crap, changed my points, and condenser, and got her running okay for a couple days then....... BAM!! Won't stay running. I decided to to some "investigative surgery".

I Knew i had low compression on #8 popped the Valve cover, found chunks of plastic. Shortly there after i removed the timing chain cover, and discovered the cam gear for the timing chain was Ford OEM. Nylon wrapped gear. Needless to say, all the nylon chunks ended up in my oil pan.

Oh Well, may as well pull the motor and Trans now that I'm this far, as the Trans was leaking about a quart a day I decided it could use some new seals.

So, the week before Thanksgiving the C6 is on its way to central Oregon for a rebuild at Hanson Transmissions. At this point I said to myself "Jason.... why stop now?" Finished tearing that tired old 360 down.



Figured out why I was so tired at long stop lights with the windows up.



Just dropped off the Heads this morning at the Machine shop for some hardened seats and so on " can't wait to see that bill" hopefully hear back soon.
I am greatly in debt to everyone who has contributed to this site, you have helped me keep the old girl running for the past 3 years, Thank you.

I am also open to any and all suggestions on rebuilding my motor, I'm not looking to do anything crazy, just wake it up a bit. I've been shopping Summit Racing for kits, if anyone has experience with their Master Kits it would be lots of help.

[BobbyFord]

Those bits in the valve area are rubber deflector type umbrella seals. Those bits will also end up in the oil pan. Both the timing gear bits and the umbrella seal bits can get through the hole in the center of your oil pump pick up screen (a lot of people don't know about the hole under the flat piece of steel on the screen.) The bits will lock up your oil pump and twist the oil pump drive shaft in half.
Whenever I have heads rebuilt, I have the guides machined to accept positive type valve seals. They will not break apart and get into the oil pan/pump like the umbrella seals do.

[moonhanger007]

Those bits in the valve area are rubber deflector type umbrella seals. Those bits will also end up in the oil pan. Both the timing gear bits and the umbrella seal bits can get through the hole in the center of your oil pump pick up screen (a lot of people don't know about the hole under the flat piece of steel on the screen.) The bits will lock up your oil pump and twist the oil pump drive shaft in half.
Whenever I have heads rebuilt, I have the guides machined to accept positive type valve seals. They will not break apart and get into the oil pan/pump like the umbrella seals do.

When I dropped the heads off they quoted me, $96.00 for the guides. how much more dose it usualy run for the positive type?

They also told me I need stainless exhaust valves, where is a good place to shop for those?
Thanks.

[Petewrench]

Those bits in the valve area are rubber deflector type umbrella seals. Those bits will also end up in the oil pan. Both the timing gear bits and the umbrella seal bits can get through the hole in the center of your oil pump pick up screen (a lot of people don't know about the hole under the flat piece of steel on the screen.) The bits will lock up your oil pump and twist the oil pump drive shaft in half.
Whenever I have heads rebuilt, I have the guides machined to accept positive type valve seals. They will not break apart and get into the oil pan/pump like the umbrella seals do.

When I dropped the heads off they quoted me, $96.00 for the guides. how much more dose it usualy run for the positive type?

They also told me I need stainless exhaust valves, where is a good place to shop for those?
Thanks.

This is an Umbrella Type valve seal. These are what Most early engines used to control oil consumption through the Valve Guides. Over time they harden, and Crumble, just like the Timing Gear did.


This is a Positive Valve Seal:


These are great, because they are made of steel, Instead of just being a piece of molded Rubber. Note the Spring that keeps tension on the Valve stem. The Price Varies, But a set usually cost about $15-$30.- The labor to cut the Guides to accept them Varies. If the Customer Requests it at my shop, I only charge for the parts, as I have to machine the tops of the new guides for height anyway.

As far as as Rebuilding the engine, If it doesn't have a killer ridge at the top of the Cylinder Bore, You can get away with a Re-Ring kit. Summit's kits come with Moly-Faced Rings (I've Always been a Cast-Iron Ring Man), which require honing with a Torque-Plate to ensure the Cylinder Is Round when the head is torqued to the block. Cast Iron is a little more Forgiving.

Nice Truck!

Hope this helps.
Pete

[moonhanger007]

Thank you Pete and Bobby, took you advice ,stopped by the machine shop again this morning and asked for the positive seals.
Initial inspection on the heads revealed they weren't in too bad of shape, new springs, keepers and such. They said they could reuse my intake valves,
would I be better off with new ones?


Just in case anyone was curious, Cam gear leftovers.

[moonhanger007]

Got my instructions in the mail today.

[IN2FORD]

Let the fun begin!!


Barry

[moonhanger007]

Let the fun begin!!


Barry

Yes sir that's one word for it!

Found something else to "chase down the rabbit hole".

[moonhanger007]

So I placed my order with Dennis Carpenter, I've read other threads most
folks aren't to pleased with LMC.
Then the "fun" begins.







Used my buddy's backhoe to lift the cab with, didn't get pics, I was to busy
holding the cab from bumping the hoe.

[moonhanger007]

Not much to report this week, got a little prep work done.
Just waiting on parts to arrive.

This little gem was worth the $25

[Mancar1]

Gonna b nice when u get it done and on the road. $$$$$ adds up fast. Even when u do most of it yourself. Ask me how I know
Keep on Trucking ......John

[IN2FORD]

I have the same issues with my cab mounts. I need to order parts from DC as well. I have been focused on my Mustang hydroboost trying to figure out how I am going to mount it to the firewall. Post pics as you get the cab mounts going back on.

Barry

[moonhanger007]

Gonna b nice when u get it done and on the road. $$$$$ adds up fast. Even when u do most of it yourself. Ask me how I know
Keep on Trucking ......John

Yep, found out the hard way, needed to order the hardware kit too!
KAACHING$$$$$$$$ 35 MORE.





But, they look pretty.

[moonhanger007]

I have the same issues with my cab mounts. I need to order parts from DC as well. I have been focused on my Mustang hydroboost trying to figure out how I am going to mount it to the firewall. Post pics as you get the cab mounts going back on.

Barry

My order from DC should be here today, hopefully get them going this weekend.

[moonhanger007]

Picked up some supplies today to get started.





Not sure what that "goop" is probably just to keep it from rusting,
figured the primer will stick better without it.

First I did a test fit.



Wasn't quite lining up, but really darn close, so i took measurements.





New one is a 1/2 inch narrower than the old.
I split the difference, and I'll wait to drill the mount hole after the cab is on.





A couple more self tappers, and it will be snug.





Next I'll be taking it apart and prepping the area for welding.