starting my T18 rebuild

Clutch, transmission, rear axle

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teddyyyy
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starting my T18 rebuild

Post by teddyyyy »

taken out the output U-joint with a plumbing pipe wrench + breaker bar + big socket (maybe 3/4 ?)
it's a bit tight all the way, but nothing like that I have to apply any brute force.

after I took out the output shaft housing, the issue started to appear, the output bearing lock ring /retainer is a 1/16---1/8 thick retainer , about 1" in diameter, with a 1/2 gap. I tried to use my cheap 2$ Harbor - Freight snap ring pliers, but it doesn't open wide enough, I tried to use a flat screw driver , doesn't work either. fact is that the snap ring pliers by design just opens up that much, and also its pins are "rounded" and does not hold onto the open gap surface of the ring very well.

I remember somebody mentioning snap ring pliers vs lock ring pliers for T18, and went to amazon and bought this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XM ... UTF8&psc=1
should be a piece of cake after it arrives

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eggman918
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Re: starting my T18 rebuild

Post by eggman918 »

I have been talking to a guy on another board that is in the process of swapping the output shaft from a 4wd T-18 to a 2wd T-19 and has found that there is a special tool needed to remove it the tool is basically a piece of pipe that fits around the shaft from the front with a piece of all thread that I "think" must thread into the shaft and a nut that rests on the end of the pipe to pull the shaft from the bearing,this description is based on the picture in my Ford manual so the details my be a bit sketchy but once you get into it it will become clearer.He might have a local guy that can help him out if not I am going to build him the tool if I do I can do one for you at the same time I dont think it would take much more time to do 2 than 1 but I will need the trans here to make the part so if you get in a bind let me know before you spend a lot of cash to do it as I might be able to help you at tyhe same time as I help him.Thought it might help to have a backup plan if things don't go smoothly.
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teddyyyy
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Re: starting my T18 rebuild

Post by teddyyyy »

thanks eggman918

i believe you are referring to the t75l 7025b tool. yes that makes job a breeze. for removal i believe a normal clam shell style puller can do the same job, and i have seen multiple sources document the same, though you need some extention bars from home depot.

but for installation, there is almost no replacement for the tool, so i researched this and found that you can use either a press or use the tapping method to put it on


eggman918 wrote:I have been talking to a guy on another board that is in the process of swapping the output shaft from a 4wd T-18 to a 2wd T-19 and has found that there is a special tool needed to remove it the tool is basically a piece of pipe that fits around the shaft from the front with a piece of all thread that I "think" must thread into the shaft and a nut that rests on the end of the pipe to pull the shaft from the bearing,this description is based on the picture in my Ford manual so the details my be a bit sketchy but once you get into it it will become clearer.He might have a local guy that can help him out if not I am going to build him the tool if I do I can do one for you at the same time I dont think it would take much more time to do 2 than 1 but I will need the trans here to make the part so if you get in a bind let me know before you spend a lot of cash to do it as I might be able to help you at tyhe same time as I help him.Thought it might help to have a backup plan if things don't go smoothly.
Steve.
teddyyyy
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Re: starting my T18 rebuild

Post by teddyyyy »

today got my heavy duty puller. put it on the tranny, it's very easy to pull off the bearings, no hard force is needed at all.


but the disassembly process turned out to be a lot of hassle for me, due to a single reason: I dropped the counter shaft first, hoping to get more clearance to get the
input and output shafts out. but the end of the counter shaft had 2 spacer metal thin rings. once the shaft drops, it got stuck and lodged firmly between the 2 walls of the chassis. then a bigger issue ensued ......: the counter shaft got into the way of the reverse idler, so the idler is stuck at the wall side, and the reverse fork arm can't move, so the fork stands in the way of the huge output shaft, and can't be moved out!


then for a time I almost was tempted to grind off the fork , in order to get the output shaft assembly out. but then I decided to just disassemble the output shaft assembly in-place, in the chassis. luckily the lock ring pliers I got were really doing a great job, and with some careful nudge, I was able to pull off all the gears and synchro rings off. then it's easy to get the shaft itself out.

I got the advice from elsewhere (http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/transmi ... ement.html) that by dropping the counter shaft, the input shaft assembly (with bearing already pressed on), can be slided in , but now this looks like a serious problem, I'll have to test it out.

basically when I get to the installation step, I plan to have several options for the bearing install: 1) hot expansion first , then slide on, I don't know if the outer race will also expand and cause friction against the chassic hole , need to test out. 2) use a thick pipe (about 2" diameter) to fit onto the inner race, and tap on pipe to press the bearing on. doing this while shaft is set in chassis . 3) doing the same tapping, but out of chassis, then try to maneuver the bearing+shaft assembly into the chassis later.
Last edited by teddyyyy on Sat Jul 05, 2014 1:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: starting my T18 rebuild

Post by teddyyyy »

the pics after disassembly. -------------- I have a question: the third pic is the first gear synchro ring. what are the horizontal grooves in the inside for ?

Thanks a lot
first_gear.jpg
chassis.jpg
close_up.jpg
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teddyyyy
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Re: starting my T18 rebuild

Post by teddyyyy »

the tool used to pull bearings, very good quality, very sturdy
puller.jpg
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tqwrench
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Re: starting my T18 rebuild

Post by tqwrench »

If you're talking about the notches in the brass blocking ring, they receive the synchronizer keys. As you're shifting, the movement of the shift fork pushes the synchronizer towards the gear. First it engages the blocking ring by the keys and brings it to synchronizer speed, then it will engage the teeth on the blocking ring and begin to push it into the gear, matching their speeds, then it can slide over the clutching teeth of the gear and engage it. It holds onto the gear by the way the teeth on the gear are designed, like a narrow pentagon. Now you've changed gears without clashing. Make sense?

**edit** maybe I misunderstood the question. If you're talking about the grooves on the outside of the blocking ring, I believe they're there so the ring won't stick to the synchronizer because of oil. They're a way for oil to escape and ditch for oil to hide in.
Last edited by tqwrench on Sat Jul 05, 2014 1:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
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teddyyyy
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Re: starting my T18 rebuild

Post by teddyyyy »

though my original question was not about the synch keys, I have indeed been wondering about how the sync rings match up, and your answer is right-on!


my original question is about the groove shown by the red arrow in this new pic
close_up.jpg
Thanks a lot



tqwrench wrote:If you're talking about the notches in the brass blocking ring, they receive the synchronizer keys. As you're shifting, the movement of the shift fork pushes the synchronizer towards the gear. First it engages the blocking ring by the keys and brings it to synchronizer speed, then it will engage the teeth on the blocking ring and begin to push it into the gear, matching their speeds, then it can slide over the clutching teeth of the gear and engage it. It holds onto the gear by the way the teeth on the gear are designed, like a narrow pentagon. Now you've changed gears without clashing. Make sense?
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tqwrench
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Re: starting my T18 rebuild

Post by tqwrench »

I see what you mean now (red arrow helped).

I don't know without seeing the main shaft. It could be a well for oil distribution, is there a port on the shaft under it?
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teddyyyy
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Re: starting my T18 rebuild

Post by teddyyyy »

my cell phone went out of battery, I'll take a bigger pic tomorrow.

but I took a closer look at the gear (sorry a correction: that is not the sync ring, but the second gear), that groove is created by milling a deep cross slot perpendicular to the axis of the gear, on the outside surface. the slot is so deep that it reaches the inner surface of the gear. I think generally you are right, that's probably for directing oil from outside the gear to the mating surface of the gear with the shaft, so that it can slide freely along the shaft


tqwrench wrote:I see what you mean now (red arrow helped).

I don't know without seeing the main shaft. It could be a well for oil distribution, is there a port on the shaft under it?
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