rear brake adjustments HELP!

[spacelong]

Hello all,
I recently rebuilt the entire braking system on my 67 f250 & converted from drum to disk on the front. First by finding Power disks from a donor 72,ordering rebuilt calipers, adding a new vacuum booster/master cylinder, new brake lines, hoses, proportioning valve, new rear drums, shoes, hardware, ect, ect...
My Question/concern is that while adjusting the rear drums the passenger side rear drum will not back off enough to spin without resistance. If you spin the wheel it will go a quarter rotation then stop.The driver side drum is just fine. So far I set both rear drums with the same amount of resistance in hopes I would wear down the new shoes by driving. Unfortunately while driving you can feel the resistance mostly while turning and makes for a white knuckle experience. Thanks for reading!

1. Should I continue to drive on them this way?
2. Should I remove the drum and have it turned?(its brand new)
3. Should I sand the shoes down manually?

[guhfluh]

No don't continue to drive it.
The drum should be turned.
Unless something is very wrong with the thickness, they shouldn't need to be sanded down and doing so will hinder their contact area if you aren't perfect.

Make sure the parts are correct by matching them with the old ones. The new adjusters I got were longer than original, and cap Taiwan quality. There are still some NOS ones out there on Ebay and maybe Dennis Carpenter, etc. And possibly better quality ones at NAPA or Dennis, etc.

If the drum turns so far without resistance and then locks up, the drum isn't true. Make certain the hub and drum are true to one another and the drum isn't cocked any or any material between the two. Major alignment issues needs to be fixed and will also cause balance problems, warpage, pulsation, etc. Minor ones can be fixed by turning the drums.

Also, are the bearings seated correctly and correct preload? Turning a corner shouldn't make it lock up worse.