Oil in Brake Lines

[ultraranger]

This is the flare nut wrench set I have.

http://m.sears.com/index-g.html#/detail ... rce=online

[shuayjye]

Thanks for the tidbit ultra, I really like the brake lines you have done. I ordered a flare nut wrench set and hoping my lines are not too corroded. As a precaution I am looking into how to make brake lines.

[68RGR]

How did your brake line work turn out?

[shuayjye]

Well I got everything disconnected and brake fluid flows pretty well when I was removing the lines. Now I will need to clean my system out. Cleaning should be easy however I am wondering how would I know if my metering valve or proportioning valve is faulty? Looking at the proportioning valve I noticed I could look down one side and see out the other side so I guess it looks good. The metering valve however cant tell since it is a sealed system (it did loose the rubber dust cap).

I am hoping there are easy ways to test them other then to put everything back together. Also will try to use a wire brush to clean up the flare nuts and use anti seize on them in case I have to do this again.

[shuayjye]

Not sure if anyone is following this thread anymore but who know who this will help. So after looking and researching online I desided to open up my metering valve to clean and it was dirty...very dirty




This is after I wiped things down with a paper towel... next will be brakekleen and finally compressed air.

I will likely take apart my proportioning valve to clean and put back together.
Will upload that information once I get it open but I think it will be easier then opening the metering valve.

Quick question if anyone is still paying attention,
it looks like I can replace my proportioning valve and metering valve with a combintation valve from 75ish F250. I found some pretty good prices on this.
http://www.carolinaclassictrucks.com/Fo ... valve.html

Anyways back to work.

[elgemcdlf]

Bobby is dead on. The only thing I would add is brake line is cheap, your lines are 40+ years old. The time you spend trying to clean them out you might as well just replace them. Oil will cause the rubber in your system to swell. Anything rubber should be replaced like he said. You will be chasing your tail if you don't just bite the bullet and do it all at once.

[shuayjye]

I wonder if you are talking about the hard lines as those are pretty expensive. I already got the replacement flex lines for my front and I disassembling everything to see what happened, clean and see were the damage is.
So far it looks like on of the o-rings on my metering valve expanded jamming it, not to mention dirty. My proportioning valve is fine a little stuck and dirty so cleaned that. I find this to be a great learning experience also.

The big issue is where to get a replacement metering valve? I created another thread about changing to a 73+ combination valve. The funny thing is right now I am stumped due to one square o-ring so decided to go with a combination valve. Now I have other issues like hard line routes and brackets.

[BobbyFord]

I wonder if you are talking about the hard lines as those are pretty expensive. I already got the replacement flex lines for my front and I disassembling everything to see what happened, clean and see were the damage is.
So far it looks like on of the o-rings on my metering valve expanded jamming it, not to mention dirty. My proportioning valve is fine a little stuck and dirty so cleaned that. I find this to be a great learning experience also.

The big issue is where to get a replacement metering valve? I created another thread about changing to a 73+ combination valve. The funny thing is right now I am stumped due to one square o-ring so decided to go with a combination valve. Now I have other issues like hard line routes and brackets.

Go to Summit Racing, there are universal combination and proportioning valves available for $50 or less.

[shuayjye]

Correct, however the universal combination valves are not plug and play. It leaves questions:

- Do I look for prebent lines for a 73+ truck or have to fabricate my own
- Can I put my original sensor into the universal one
- Do I need to make my own bracket, if so any recommendations

Like I said, all of this instead of replacing the one bad o-ring.

[BobbyFord]

Correct, however the universal combination valves are not plug and play. It leaves questions:

- Do I look for prebent lines for a 73+ truck or have to fabricate my own
- Can I put my original sensor into the universal one
- Do I need to make my own bracket, if so any recommendations

Like I said, all of this instead of replacing the one bad o-ring.

Well, you could replace the o-ring in yours OR replace it with an aftermarket prop valve. Using aftermarket parts generally requires some type of fabrication. Compare the thread size on the replacement valve to see if it will accept your sensor.

[shuayjye]

Bobby,
Thank you for your help. I went with the cut the o-ring and apply silicone sealant on it. Will see how it works out. I also used fine sand paper to clean our the metering valve the best I could. Thinking I should figure a way to polish it smooth.

Since the metering valve cylinder is large cleaning it was not too bad but the proportional valve will be another story will have to find something to clean it and polish it.