Trans back in with a little help from my cousin. Tomorrow I'll get drive shaft and the rest buttoned back up. I get out of work at 5 so i only get a hour or so of decent light to work on it. Not to mention I'm usually BEAT when I get off.
One observation was that trying to get the trans to mate fully with the engine is difficult even while turning the output shaft on the trans to get the input spindle seated in the friction disc. Once it seems to be locked in, I found that the best thing is to get the 4 bolts started and tighten them up slowly and evenly to draw the two together. All the while being mindful of binding.
Clutch job on 71 F250
Moderators: FORDification, 70_F100
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BigFoot
- New Member
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BigFoot
- New Member
- Posts: 169
- Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2013 7:51 pm
- Location: Chicago
Re: Clutch job on 71 F250
UPDATE:
Autozone strikes again!!
They gave me the wrong clutch kit. Click this link : http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/ ... pouvZ6o243
I bought the second one. Part Number: NU0465D . I thought that I'd buy the one that was a little more expensive thinking that it was a little better.
WRONG!!
Don't buy this one. It hits the bell housing where the fork comes through. It barely touched it so I thought It'll be ok once it cut a wee bit out.
NOPE!!
Not only did it make a hell of a racket it also didn't work. The clutch fork wouldn't throw far enough to disengage the engine from the trans to enable me to shift into gear.
Apparently, Sargentrs went through a similar problem outlined here: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 5&start=15
My only concern is that he said he bought part # NU0465 , Not NU0465D like I did. So now I'm paranoid that I'm going to end up with the same problem he did. With the new one.
One thing I can say is that my old (failed) clutch was the 3 lever type and not the multi lever type like the new one I bought so that is my only prayer that that was/is the problem.
Another odd bit: The drive shaft wouldn't fit. The holes that bolt the carrier bearing to the under bed were about an inch to far to the rear. It was almost as if the trans was an inch farther to the rear, which I cant understand. There was no gap between the trans/bell housing/engine and the rear cross-member bolted up no problem. So I got a pipe & Hammer and just drove the carrier bearing a bit more on to the drive shaft. I don't remember there being tension on the bolts when I removed it or that the bearing had stress on it. It was very weird and of course it took me about 45 minutes of head scratching and another 45 minutes of pipe finding before I could get it in; only to find that the damn clutch didn't work... LOL
Saturday I will hit autozone early AM and knock this job out. At least everything is de-greased, cleaned and the flywheel has been cut.
Autozone strikes again!!
They gave me the wrong clutch kit. Click this link : http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/ ... pouvZ6o243
I bought the second one. Part Number: NU0465D . I thought that I'd buy the one that was a little more expensive thinking that it was a little better.
WRONG!!
Don't buy this one. It hits the bell housing where the fork comes through. It barely touched it so I thought It'll be ok once it cut a wee bit out.
NOPE!!
Not only did it make a hell of a racket it also didn't work. The clutch fork wouldn't throw far enough to disengage the engine from the trans to enable me to shift into gear.
Apparently, Sargentrs went through a similar problem outlined here: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 5&start=15
My only concern is that he said he bought part # NU0465 , Not NU0465D like I did. So now I'm paranoid that I'm going to end up with the same problem he did. With the new one.
One thing I can say is that my old (failed) clutch was the 3 lever type and not the multi lever type like the new one I bought so that is my only prayer that that was/is the problem.
Another odd bit: The drive shaft wouldn't fit. The holes that bolt the carrier bearing to the under bed were about an inch to far to the rear. It was almost as if the trans was an inch farther to the rear, which I cant understand. There was no gap between the trans/bell housing/engine and the rear cross-member bolted up no problem. So I got a pipe & Hammer and just drove the carrier bearing a bit more on to the drive shaft. I don't remember there being tension on the bolts when I removed it or that the bearing had stress on it. It was very weird and of course it took me about 45 minutes of head scratching and another 45 minutes of pipe finding before I could get it in; only to find that the damn clutch didn't work... LOL
Saturday I will hit autozone early AM and knock this job out. At least everything is de-greased, cleaned and the flywheel has been cut.
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sargentrs
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Re: Clutch job on 71 F250
Sorry I don't remember which one I bought. 
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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BigFoot
- New Member
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- Location: Chicago
Re: Clutch job on 71 F250
DONE. NU0465 Is the correct part.
Now to move on to cab supports and the great power steering swap.
Thanks for all the help!
Now to move on to cab supports and the great power steering swap.
Thanks for all the help!