Clutch job on 71 F250

Clutch, transmission, rear axle

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BigFoot
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Clutch job on 71 F250

Post by BigFoot »

Hi all,
I apologize if this is redundant. I'm searching on my phone.
How difficult is it to change a clutch on a 71 F250 2wd with a 360?
I'm an ex shop mechanic but I no longer have access to a lift. Can I do it on the ground?
What are the typical things to expect?
Thanks!
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mrtleavitt
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Re: Clutch job on 71 F250

Post by mrtleavitt »

Yes you can change the clutch with a few floor jacks. I've done both ways, taking out the tranny and taking out the engine. I would vote for the tanny approach. As far as typical things to expect...a few cuss words :lol:

Make sure to put a big dob of grease on the tranny input shaft to help things slid back together, that always seems to help.
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BigFoot
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Re: Clutch job on 71 F250

Post by BigFoot »

Thanks for your advise!
I assume its just bell housing bolts, starter, shifter linkage, axle reverse light wire and maybe some sort of rear trans support... yes?
I havent spent much time under my truck. A friend just offered to sell me his 71 F250 for $1200 and its in FAR better shape than mine (my cab needs to be replaced) but his needs a clutch right now. He said it sounds like the fork or throw out bearing or maybe a pressure plate spline broke. Apparently it went out all at once with a big racket and now it sounds like there is a bunch of crap banging around in there.
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Re: Clutch job on 71 F250

Post by BigFoot »

So, the truck is at stock ride height. Will I need to jack up the truck and put it on stands? Or is there enough room to do it just on the ground?
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guhfluh
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Re: Clutch job on 71 F250

Post by guhfluh »

There is enough room on the ground, but if your jack(or whatever you choose to support the trans and rear of engine) reaches, it'll be much more comfortable under there if you lift it up.

Check out the inside of the bellhousing for damage if the clutch came apart that badly. The aluminum can get chunks taken out easily when things let go.
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tsherry
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Re: Clutch job on 71 F250

Post by tsherry »

BigFoot wrote:Hi all,
I apologize if this is redundant. I'm searching on my phone.
How difficult is it to change a clutch on a 71 F250 2wd with a 360?
I'm an ex shop mechanic but I no longer have access to a lift. Can I do it on the ground?
What are the typical things to expect?
Thanks!
I have a '67 F250 2WD CS. I jacked it up with a floor jack, put jackstands under the front end, dropped the driveshaft and transmission, replaced the clutch, etc. Had a jack for the trans, which sort of worked, but it was one of the most difficult jobs I'd done in a LONG time. (it also happened to be winter at the time, which didn't help).
too many Fords, no where near 'nuff time.

or, money.
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Re: Clutch job on 71 F250

Post by motzingg »

either buy, rent, borrow a trans jack or build a wood cradle to go on a regular floor jack, makes the job 200% safer, especially if you're doing it by yourself.
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guhfluh
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Re: Clutch job on 71 F250

Post by guhfluh »

I'd say its a two man job going back in with it. Coming out, I was able to balance it on the jack well enough, but going back in was a pain even for two people. Longer bolts should make alignment much easier when going back in, but I didn't have any at the time. Put the bellhousing on first, then stab the trans. If you can get or make a trans jack, I agree, I would do it, as it would make it much safer than the balancing act I did last.
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'96 Dodge Ram ECLB CTD
'99 Dodge Neon ACR 2dr - 10.64@130 (Sold)
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sargentrs
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Re: Clutch job on 71 F250

Post by sargentrs »

Get some 6"-8" pieces of all thread rod the same as your bolts. Remove the bottom two bolts and screw the rods in and screw nuts on the ends. Then remove the top bolts and slide the tyranny back. Block or jack up the tailstock to keep it level or the weight will bend the rods. I struggled putting my 3spd in. I didn't have enough umph to lift it in place. Laid down on my creeper and held it on my chest/stomach. Slid up under the rods and took a deep breath. My belly was the same height as the rods. :lol: Rolled the creeper forward and stabbed it on the rods. And they say being out of shape is not good for your back. :wink:
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Re: Clutch job on 71 F250

Post by BigFoot »

Thanks for all the replies! I'm gonna give it a go next weekend.
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Re: Clutch job on 71 F250

Post by BigFoot »

Half done. It took me 2 hours to pull the trans today in the parking lot at work. Taking the top trans cover hump off in the cab made it pretty easy. There was absolutely NO friction material left on the friction disc! That'll do it!

I didnt know you have to separate the trans from the bell housing. That made it a lot easier to get out and down.
When i put it back in should I bolt the bell housing back on and then the trans... or the the whole thing at once?
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Re: Clutch job on 71 F250

Post by BigFoot »

Got the flywheel back from the machine shop. bolted it up to the engine. Mounted pressure plate to it and one of the PP bolts broke!
Now i just gotta drill it out. ARG!!
Lesson learned: Buy new bolts.
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Re: Clutch job on 71 F250

Post by sargentrs »

:doh: Ouch, I hate it when that happens!
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
BigFoot
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Re: Clutch job on 71 F250

Post by BigFoot »

Today I took the flywheel off and center punched the back of the bolt, went to drill it out, and it just turned right out!
I got it all new grade 5 bolts for the PP and got it all bolted up. Tomorrow just gotta convince my cousin to help me after work to get the trans back in.

Should I mount bell housing first and then thread the needle with the input shaft/trans or mount both at the same time?
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Re: Clutch job on 71 F250

Post by BigFoot »

guhfluh wrote: Put the bellhousing on first, then stab the trans.
I'll try this! I should have read the post!
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