hey peoples, this is my first post! I'm kind of a noob. I've been silently lurking around these parts for a little bit, gleaning information. Anyhow, here goes.
I'm going to take out the driveshaft from the tranny to the rear diff. There are ubolts at the ujoint at each end. These are pics from under a 4 spd 1970 f100 2wd ranger that has 2 piece driveshaft with at least one question below each pic. I don't think the 4 spd was original. I think it may have been 3 on tree, now it 4 on floor.
I got a bunch of questions for this one:
Is this a lot of length for splines to be exposed?
Is this a slip joint? Obviously a cover is unscrewed and something else is out too. Is this a seal for all the grease that maybe goes in the nipple hanging down to the left of the ujoint there on the right? What am i looking to do to fix this? "Slip joint grease seal" or what?
Also, i haven't turned it yet, but if the carrier bearing spins well, should i just replace it anyway when i got the shaft out? The rubber looks pretty bad.
Apparently grease is spraying out of the yoke at the tranny. It coats everything in a circle around the immediate area. Does the short shaft going into the tranny hole simply come straight out and just get repacked/resealed? Answer me like im a newborn babe in the woods. Assume nothing.
Heres the same place at the tranny end. Im posting it to point out that if you look at the small bolt in upper left of the pic, you can see the red grease dripping off of it. This is a 4 speed so i guess that it isn't red automatic tranny oil. It is thicker than motor oil, so im assuming it is red grease that was packed into the yoke. It is in the radius of the spray.
This may sound extra special dumb, but can i chock the front and just throw a floor jack directly under the rear diff and lift the whole back end of the truck up long enough to put it on jackstands or is that bad for it?
As far as dropping out the drive shaft, i may be looking at this wrong, but it seems that after removing the u shaped bolts at the ujoints at the rear diff and at the tranny, that the drive shaft needs to shrink lengthwise to come out. Can this occur at the slip joint in the center where all the splines are exposed or is this not the way to do it?
Thanks very much for your answers!
driveshaft questions
Moderators: FORDification, 70_F100
- sargentrs
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 9866
- Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 9:30 am
- Location: Georgia, Jasper
Re: driveshaft questions
First off, from Georgia! Stop by the Welcome Mat, introduce yourself and tell us about your truck. I'm, by no means, an expert in this area so don't take anything I say as 100% accurate. I've pulled my shaft a time or two and here's what I feel.
Hopefully, somebody else with more experience in drive lines will lend some more insight. Good luck!buddhayesca wrote: Is this a lot of length for splines to be exposed?
Nope, that's about right.
Is this a slip joint? Obviously a cover is unscrewed and something else is out too. Is this a seal for all the grease that maybe goes in the nipple hanging down to the left of the ujoint there on the right? What am i looking to do to fix this? "Slip joint grease seal" or what?
Mine's never done that before so I haven't investigated but yes, I believe it is. Here's the exploded view http://www.fordification.com/tech/image ... shafts.jpg Replace the seal.
Also, i haven't turned it yet, but if the carrier bearing spins well, should i just replace it anyway when i got the shaft out? The rubber looks pretty bad.
Unless your detecting noise, vibration, or doing a restoration project, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. That bearing is pressed onto the drive shaft and can be a pain to replace.
Apparently grease is spraying out of the yoke at the tranny. It coats everything in a circle around the immediate area. Does the short shaft going into the tranny hole simply come straight out and just get repacked/resealed? Answer me like im a newborn babe in the woods. Assume nothing.
I don't know much about the 4 speeds but most trannys I've messed with, remove the nut in the center and the yoke'll slide out. Install a new seal, slide the yoke back in and torque the nut.
Heres the same place at the tranny end. Im posting it to point out that if you look at the small bolt in upper left of the pic, you can see the red grease dripping off of it. This is a 4 speed so i guess that it isn't red automatic tranny oil. It is thicker than motor oil, so im assuming it is red grease that was packed into the yoke. It is in the radius of the spray.
That's the retainer for the speedometer cable. There's an o-ring seal that may be leaking. Remove the bolt and wiggle the cable out to replace the o-ring, if necessary. Yes, probably just grease.
This may sound extra special dumb, but can i chock the front and just throw a floor jack directly under the rear diff and lift the whole back end of the truck up long enough to put it on jackstands or is that bad for it?
Yes, no problem.
As far as dropping out the drive shaft, i may be looking at this wrong, but it seems that after removing the u shaped bolts at the ujoints at the rear diff and at the tranny, that the drive shaft needs to shrink lengthwise to come out. Can this occur at the slip joint in the center where all the splines are exposed or is this not the way to do it?
Yes. There should be enough slack in the slip joint. If not, just remove the two bolts at the carrier bearing.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
- HIO Silver
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 1970
- Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2011 11:31 pm
- Location: Devil's Mountain, CA
Re: driveshaft questions
The trans is an NP435 which has a fixed yoke. The short driveshaft does not slip. The short driveshaft is fixed btwn the NP and the carrier bearing so the slippage occurs at its rear where the long driveshaft is inserted.
70 F100 LB 2WD, 360FE, E-Street EFI, TKO-500, 76K original miles.. follow my rebuild: The Lo-Buck Bumpside
71 F250 LB, 2WD, 360FE, T18, PS, PB, D60 with 4.11s
73 F100 SB 4WD, 390FE, NP435, +4 on 35s
01 Ferrari 360 Spider F1
01 F150 SuperCrew Lariat 4WD
01 PT Cruiser Limited (DD)
68 Mustang
65 Mustang
71 F250 LB, 2WD, 360FE, T18, PS, PB, D60 with 4.11s
73 F100 SB 4WD, 390FE, NP435, +4 on 35s
01 Ferrari 360 Spider F1
01 F150 SuperCrew Lariat 4WD
01 PT Cruiser Limited (DD)
68 Mustang
65 Mustang
Re: driveshaft questions
Thanks much for your all's answers, i got a solid idea of what's going on now, and thanks for IDing the tranny. I assume you could tell from the pics somehow and weren't just going by me saying 4 on the floor.
It is turning into a restore project more and more every time i go under the truck and see more stuff, so im probably going to take the bed off first thing so i can more luxuriously do a bunch of stuff, including this. The bed also needs to be patched up a little anyway.
Thanks again
It is turning into a restore project more and more every time i go under the truck and see more stuff, so im probably going to take the bed off first thing so i can more luxuriously do a bunch of stuff, including this. The bed also needs to be patched up a little anyway.
Thanks again
- HIO Silver
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 1970
- Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2011 11:31 pm
- Location: Devil's Mountain, CA
Re: driveshaft questions
Yep.. I pulled mine out last weekend cuz I'm swapping to a Tremec TKO-500.buddhayesca wrote:Thanks much for your all's answers, i got a solid idea of what's going on now, and thanks for IDing the tranny. I assume you could tell from the pics somehow and weren't just going by me saying 4 on the floor.
It is turning into a restore project more and more every time i go under the truck and see more stuff, so im probably going to take the bed off first thing so i can more luxuriously do a bunch of stuff, including this. The bed also needs to be patched up a little anyway.
Thanks again
The reason our rigs have a two-piece driveshaft is because the NP435 is really short.
Re: driveshaft questions
That is cool, let me know how that goes, thanks for the pic. I might in the very distant future want to swap out my unused bulldog gear having 4 speed for something with an overdrive or at least a 5 speed
- rjewkes
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 3711
- Joined: Sun Apr 17, 2005 1:09 am
- Location: Missouri, Webb City
- Contact:
Re: driveshaft questions
Same two piece with the auto trannies. I think the real reason for the two peice is they hadn't yet mastered single piece shafts of that length yet.
"It is better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than to open it and remove all doubt." - Mark Twain
'70 f250 4x4 Crew cab 460/C6 '72 F100 390/C6 9.8 MPG AVG. '89 Mercury Cougar LS Dual Exh. V6 . 18.9 MPG AVG. In Town.
I don't want to give em a heart-attack. That is what would happen if I answered the door in the buff. Heck it almost scares me to death when I step out of the shower and look in the mirror.~Mancar1~
fuelly.com
'70 f250 4x4 Crew cab 460/C6 '72 F100 390/C6 9.8 MPG AVG. '89 Mercury Cougar LS Dual Exh. V6 . 18.9 MPG AVG. In Town.
I don't want to give em a heart-attack. That is what would happen if I answered the door in the buff. Heck it almost scares me to death when I step out of the shower and look in the mirror.~Mancar1~
fuelly.com