FORD F100 1979 C4 - No forward gears/only reverse

[ADE ROWBERRY UK]

Finally managed to turn my attentions back to this gearbox over the weekend.
Cleaned all parts bar valve body & took the reverse-high clutch apart. All friction discs & steel plates look heavily worn - on removing the retainer & beefy clutch spring I can see that the bush lipped end had split both circumferentially (ie around the disc & also has a hairline crack.
This bush sits in a recess within the borehole of the drum & I could not tap it out from the other end as there is no lip to make contact with.
Do I simply need to order a replacement drum or is there a way that this bush can be extracted?

So far, I think I need:-

1) Front planet - with the existing one the planets 'stick/grind' as if the needle rollers have broken or heavily worn.
I am doubtful this can be rebuilt in the UK & to send it to the US/pay for rebuild/ send back again.....will take too long & probably cost more than buying a rebuilt one anyway....
2. All thrust washers
3. All bushes - I do not have set of bush 'drivers' but will use hardwood blocks to knock out the bushes (I have no alternative)
4. High/reverse clutch steel & friction plates (min. 5 friction plates)
5. Forward clutch steel & friction plates (min. 4 friction plates)
6. Modulator
7. Need to add governor oil screen/filter - the George Reid book recommends fitting one in the rebuild
8. reverse band
9. intermediate band
10.gaskets throughout
11.H servo cover / replacement (this looks OK on my gearbox but I guess it should probably be replaced.... certainly the inner seal which looks twisted anyway)
12.The lipped bush that sits in the reverse/high drum is also split around the lip & has hairline cracks. I cannot see how this bush can be removed as there is no 'edge' with which to knock it down the inner core of the drum. Let's assume I need to replace the reverse/high drum pls.
13.You have recommended too to replace the roller clutch spring & roller kit.
Again - looking at this, mine appears to be OK however I will get a quote on this.

I also think that the kickdown lever is missing an adjustment screw / adjustment - not sure where to get this.

I want the shifting to be sharper - again the George Reid book 'How to Rebuild & Modify Ford C4 & C6 Autmoatic Transmissions' suggests a B&M shift improver kit
- do you think this or a similar kit would be appropriate for my use?

Suppliers:-

1. Broader Performance: they offer 500HP rebuild kit but not clear to me what is contained in this kit. I have emailed them my above list to see what they recommend.
2. Performance Automotive Transmission Center
Combo Kits
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/c4_c6.htm

a relevant selection from their website:-
#K14. Fits all C4 transmissions, 1970 to 1981. You get the #23XXDPP Alto Red Eagle master kit with all RedEagle clutches and Kolene steels plus a Red Eagle direct Power Pack, and the #61510 Fairbanks TransAction kit for 1970 up C4 transmissions. This TransAction kit will work on 6 and 8 cylinder engines with both large and small bell housings. Delivers full manual control at any speed which increases the overall performance level. Plus you get the #3 Sonnax "C" ratio servo as used with Shelby Mustang and other performance vehicles, a "C" ratio servo offers greater holding power, giving cleaner, firmer 1-2 and 2-3 shifts and to go with the servo you get the #3X Alto Red Eagle band. This is the master kit we use in our level 2, C4 Dominator transmissions. All of this for $396.00. SAVE $44.00 HERE !, 10% OFF

C4 Performance Alto Red Eagle Master Rebuild Kit
#23XX. Alto Red Eagle Master Rebuild Kit for 1969-1981 C4 transmissions. Add filter, band and bushings if needed. Cost $132.00
Includes the following:
•Gasket and Seal Kit
•Metal Clad Seals
•Ring Kit
•All Red Eagle Performance Clutches
•All High Performance Kolene Steels

C4 Performance Alto Red Eagle Master Kit with Direct Power Pack
#23XXDPP. Alto Red Eagle Master Rebuild Kit with direct clutch Red Eagle Power Pack for 1969-1981 C4 transmissions. Add filter, band and bushings if needed. Cost $224.00
Not sure what the extra cost buys with this kit ......

#9X. C-4 Six Pinion Planetary Set.
The strength of the C-4 forward planetary has become an issue with the ever increasing loads that racers are subjecting this transmission to. With this new six-pinion planetary, the load capacity is doubled! We have also added roller bearings to each planet that reduces friction and parasitic loss. Includes planet gear, ring gear and sun gear. Cost $386.00 (this is very expensive & probably

#23X. C-4 / C5 Alto RedEagle direct clutch PowerPack with 6 clutches. The stock unit has 4 clutches. Fits late1964 up. Can be added to the above performance C-4 as an extra. Specify C4 or C5. Cost $142.00

#25TW2. C4 / C5 Thrust Washer Kit, with selectives. Fits 1964 - 1986. On the early 64-69 kit the black washers and the 2 smallest washers are selective. Cost $23.00

#24BK. C4 / C5 Late Bushing Kit, 1970 - 1986. Cost $29.00

3) Oregon Performance Transmission
http://www.oregonperformancetransmissio ... =ORE-C4-RB

Master rebuild kit for the 1964-up Ford C4 transmission. This kit contains all Borg-Warner clutches and Raybestos steel plates. Also included is a Transtec soft parts kit with every rubber seal and gasket that you'll need to complete your rebuild. The kit comes with a new filter, front band, rear band, vacuum modulator, and the main bushings.
Price: $119.99
Code: ORE-C4-RB
Shipping Weight: 9.00 pounds

Ford C4 C-4 Automatic Transmission Master Rebuild Kit High Performance Raybestos Stage 1
High Performance master rebuild kit for the Ford C4 transmission. This kit contains the Red Raybestos Stage 1 clutches and Kolene steel plates. Also included is a Transtec soft parts kit with every rubber seal and gasket that you'll need to complete your rebuild. The kit comes with a new filter, adjustable modulator, front & rear Kevlar bands, bushings for pump, case, and output shaft housing.
Price: $205.99
Code: ORE-C4-RBHP
Shipping Weight: 7.00 pounds

Sonnax Ford C4 C-4 Automatic Transmission High Performance Boost Valve Kit
APPLICATIONS: � C4 COMPLAINTS: � Soft shifts; low line pressure � Erratic shift timing � Reverse shudder � Direct clutch failure DETAILS: � Sleeve manufactured from highly wearresistant aluminum to prevent wear � Hard-coat anodized valve provides better hydraulic seal during thermal expansion and resists wear � Valve spool ratios have been modified to provide higher line pressure for increased performance PART SUMMARY The reciprocating action of the hardened steel boost valve within the aluminum sleeve eventually leads to wear. This wear allows TV and reverse pressures to cross leak or exhaust, which can result in soft shifts, low line pressure, reverse shudder, erratic shift timing and/or direct clutch failure. Additionally, these older C4 transmissions could benefit from increased line pressure when being used in performance applications. The Sonnax replacement assembly provides a wear-resistant aluminum sleeve and hard-coat anodized valve for better sealing at increased operating temperatures. Additionally, the valve spool ratios have been modified to provide increased line pressures at heavier throttle for performance applications.
Price: $55.99
Code: SNX-26949-03K
Shipping Weight: 0.25 pounds

C-4, C-5 1970-86 Transmission Bushing Kit. We also have the Torrington Bearing and Thrust Washers available for these transmissions.
Price: $41.15
Code: NTP-K26980A
Shipping Weight: 2.00 pounds

TRANSGO FORD C4/C5 1973-ON SHIFT KIT
CORRECTS/PREVENTS/REDUCES: NO REVERSE HOT; 1-2 SLIDE; SOFT 2-3 UPSHIFT; 3-2 CUTLOOSE; 3-2 3-2 SHUTTLE; 2ND BAND FAILURE
Price: $22.15
Code: TRG-SKC5
Shipping Weight: 1.00 pounds

LUBEGARD GREEN ASSEMBLEE GOO
Formulated for use as an assembly aid and lubricant for automatic and manual transmissions. It provides lubrication and helps facilitate the assembly process, by holding components such as needle bearings and hydraulic seals in place. Simply apply to O-rings, seals, bearings, gaskets, sealing rings, bushings, thrust washers and much more. Remains smooth and stable. It will not melt at shop or work bench temperatures and provides either light or firm tack for your assembly requirements. Yet it dissolves and becomes soluble in transmission fluids at operating temperatures without clogging filters or solenoid valves. Eliminates misdiagnosing leaks and is NOT harmful with prolonged skin contact. DR.TRANNY's original firm tack formula (GREAT FOR SUMMER). Facilitates and provides lubrication during the transmission assembly process. Dyed green or blue to prevent misdiagnosing leaks. Will not melt at shop temperatures. Not harmful with prolonged skin contact. Will not clog filters. Dissolves quickly at operating temperatures. Compatible with all transmission fluids
Price: $9.70
Code: LBG-19250
Shipping Weight: 2.00 pounds





LIFE AUTOMOTIVE TRANS PREP TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY LUBE REBUILD OVERHAUL GREASE
Specifically designed for automatic or manual transmission assembly. Lubricates o-rings, gaskets, bearings, bushings, sealing rings, thrust washers & seals during assembly. It�s unique blue color prevents misdiagnosing leaks. Trans Prep will not melt at shop temperatures up to 135� & is formulated to dissolve quickly at operating temperatures, therefore not clogging filters. Trans Prep is compatible with all transmission fluids. Blue color prevents misdiagnosing leaks Apply to O rings, gaskets, bearings, bushings, sealing rings, thrust washers & seals Compatible with all transmission fluids 16 oz. tub makes for easy use Dissolves quickly at operating temperatures Will not clog filters Does not melt at work bench Protects against corrosion
Price: $7.99
Code: LIF-5001
Shipping Weight: 1.00 pounds


4) Makco Transmission Parts
http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/C-4.html

High Performance Transmission Rebuild kits
# HP25005R-K HP Master Kit, C4 w/ Red Eagle Friction & Kolene Steels
1970 - 1981 Master Kit includes:
Premium Transtec® overhaul kit with gaskets, seals and metal sealing ring kit.
Red Eagle friction clutch kit (5 fwd & 4 direct friction),
With Kolene Steels clutch kit
Kit includes: 26002C, A26119HP, 26139HP
Price: $155.83

# B26022 Band C4 / C5 Intermediate
New band, BorgWarner … Front Flex 1965-86
This is the intermediate FLEX band in the front of the transmission behind the pump.
$ 9.78

# N26022C Band, C4 / C5 intermediate flex Pro Series RAYBESTOS
Band, Intermediate, Flex (Pro Series) (64-86)
$ 13.43

# A26022HP Band C4 Ft. Flex - Red Eagle high performance lining
New Alto Red Eagle intermediate flex band
Alto # 025957HP
$ 54.44

# R26022K Band, C4 / C5 intermediate flex KEVLAR lined
Relined band - AB# D25995K
$ 6.99

# N26024 Band C-4 / C-5 rear low / reverse
New band, … 1964-86
This is the Low / Rev band in the REAR of the transmission case.
$ 29.02

# 26030B Bushing kit, C4 / C5 1970-86
$ 26.39

# A26654K Sprag kit, C4 / C5 Spring & roller kit
$ 7.72

# 26160Y Modulator: C4 YELLOW stripe Push-in
1973-83
$ 16.94

# 26200C Thrust washer kit, C4 / C5, 1970-86,
Flat thrust washers, includes Popular selectives
$ 27.01

# 26232A Washer,C4/C5 FOR. DRUM TOCLU HUB 1970-86
1970-86
$ 9.17

Donnie - I would very much welcome your input (or other transmission experts) - I am contacting each of the above co. to get their advice but will order this week if at all possible. I am missing driving my truck & really want to get this gearbox rebuilt & the truck back on the road.......

Regards (with thanks!)
Adrian

[Donnie]

Ade, you've given me quite a list of option's to check.....I am familiar with all the mfg.'s that you mentioned, but not acquainted with ANY of the reseller's. Without covering thing's already discussed...I see no mention of the reverse / low servo piston...replace this.
You are also talking about some HI-Performance part's that are not needed unless you are drag racing this truck or pulling a HEAVY trailer..
You do NOT need a 6 pinion planet for a stock reman...You also do not need the Alto HP stuff.....It won't hurt, but unless you want to spend the bux????? Borg Warner & Raybestos clutches & bands are fine & less $$$...Also Kolene steels are not needed.
You are going to need some pro help with your bushing R & R procedures...A block of wood is not going to get it....
Do you have a friend with a machine shop, a lathe & a press?
I think if you re-read all my prior post's we have covered most of your question's..................EXCEPT the VALVE BODY
If you like firm shifts at lite throttle, ( they annoy me)....you can use the B&M kit...as far as I know they do not modulate their shifts, that is, ALL shifts are firm....I do not like their kit's.......others do....just remember the old adage " HARD SHIFTS BREAK HARD PARTS"
You mentioned Fairbanks: a name synonymous with racing from days gone by....As I recall when the Lupo family sold Fairbanks....the name & all the patents/ copyright's were bought by the Erickson family in Fla. The Erickson Bros were hard at work developing their own line of pumps & valve body kits called "THE SIMPLE SOLUTION".....Their kits were easy to use & worked well, but they were wanting to grow...
until then, Gil Younger had the market pretty well in the bag with his "SHIFT KIT"....those two words are copyrighted to Trans Go/ Gil Younger & no one dared to call their valve body kit a shift kit, thus Superior Trans Parts was born....A note here, Gil was the first to come up with the idea that transmissions could be made to work better & last longer........thus TransGo was, as I recall it, the first into this valve body modification stuff....I have used Fairbanks when they were owned by Joe Lupo, Superior's simple solution & Gil's kits....
Being retired now I am not up to speed on where Dennis (SUPERIOR) has taken their operation with the purchase of Fairbanks....
Myself, I usually would prefer Trans Go's kits along with a few tricks that I worked out myself......You can read up on any of these folks & draw your own opinion........
I would go with the H servo that you have, it will be fine, the shift program that you choose will see that your 2nd gear is OK.
I mentioned the roller clutch because they are inexpensive & the springs lose their resilient ability.
If you have any questions that I did not answer............write back...............Donnie

[ADE ROWBERRY UK]

Dear Donnie,
I have been so busy that have had no time to do further work on the gearbox.
The obstacle now seems to be how to extract & replace the bushes as I do not have a bush driver kit & have no idea where to get one. The only suggestion my techie friend could come up with was to spot weld washers of the appropriate diameter to bolts & use these to tap the bushes out. I thought this would be an easy job.....sadly my truck languishes under covers & is going nowhere.
Does anyone know where I can obtain a suitable bush removing kit in the US? Website addresses welcome please. A secondhand kit would be ideal for me ......I cannot move forward or backward on this gearbox repair without these bush drivers. Advice welcome please!!

[Donnie]

Ade, what bushing's are you after? The 3 that wear the most are : front pump, rev/hi drum & the extension housing.
The pump & ex housing can be removed with a chisel if you are careful..
If you take the bushing's that you want to replace & walk into a small machine shop.....anyone with a small lathe can make you installers a lot cheaper than you can buy a set here in the US.....The commercial set we use are a hardened steel as they are used daily for years & costly.
You could have them made of mild steel or even aluminum for a 1 time use.....A lot of bushings in your trans should still be OK, no????
Don't make yourself more work than needed.....Most bushing's are puzzle locked, that is they are not A 360 degree solid piece, look at them closely & you will see a "seam" ........."puzzle lock" --installing these with your bolt idea may collapse them...smaller 1 piece bushings could be pulled into place this way....The large bushing in the rear is hardly ever worn, a lot of smaller one's too

The rev/high bushing will give you the most trouble, set your drum on the pump & be sure that it is worn enough to need to be replaced..a couple of thou. here is OK....your bolt idea may work to remove this one if it is worn too much. This one can be a pain.

Another note: cut a piece of emory cloth about the width of your hand & 6 or 8 inches long & wrap it around your pump where he ring grooves are.
this is only to clean up the wire edges that may be there..Hold the cloth & roll the pump back & forth on your bench a few times. This is not critical, just want to clean up the grooves.....been wondering how you are doing...I check in here a few times a week, HTH, Donnie

[ADE ROWBERRY UK]

Hi Donnie,
I found a toolmaker locally - he has a type of 'press' which he will use to gently but firmly pop the bushes out.
The rev/high needs replacing too - this bush has a wrap around edge which has fatigued & broken. In spite of the absence of a shoulder/leading edge to push it out (the shaft seems to be machined to accept the bush so there is no edge with which to push it out) - he is confident he can remove this without too much difficult.
He also has the scope to heat up the eg the aluminium gearbox case to help loosen the bush & ease it out. He will fit the new ones too.
Can the new bushes (with the seam/puzzle lock) usually be gently pushed into place? Is it prudent again to heat the surrounding metal thereby expanding the bore slightly enough to allow easier installation of the bush?
At least I can go ahead now & order the parts needed.
Did you have any other suppliers that you think would be a better choice than those that I found?
I have not found a servo supplier yet......if you can suggest one then I would be grateful.
Likewise, is it possible to order any of these gearbox parts from Ford directly?
Which website can I goto to check out these prices please?
Appreciate your help as always.
Thank you all,
ADE

[Donnie]

It is good that you found a machinest that can help you. The reason that the rev/hi drum bush is smooth with the bore, is that it has to pass over the oel delivery rings w/o catching on them & breaking them..
No heat is needed to install any of the bushings..The drivers that we use have a small shoulder to push the bushing & are deep enough to drop inside to keep them from collapsing on the install.. I have seen many builders us a flat piece of steel to install bushings..AS LONG as you are using a hydraulic press & everything is on the same plane. If you **** a bushing., it will collapse...
The pump bushing has an oel groove & has to be installed correctly. Watch when you remove the old one. I also would loc-tite the pump bush in place...if your converter hub is off center a wee bit too much it can cause the pump bush to walk out.
The extension housing bush also has a hole in it ...the hole must be installed where the slot is in the extension housing..so it can get lubed.
I am surprised that your supplier can't get you the rev servo piston....Every c4 rebuild needs one, unless yours is still soft, they are usually hard from the heat & their material is not hi tech.
Any Ford dealer should be able to get you one....
I'm not sure who you are using for a supplier, but ask them: whose paper & rubber kit they are sending you & whose clutches & band ?
post back this info & i'll give you my opinion............Donnie

[Donnie]

If you kock a bushing it will collapse...............GEEZZZZZZZZZ ! if it kicks this one out...GET THE BUSHING SLANTED< OK ???????????? yikes

[ADE ROWBERRY UK]

I think that the machinist will turn steel bars on his lathe to create the necessary shoulder with which to push the bush so to speak. I will probably be there to watch (& learn) from this process.
Donnie, I have spent many late hours trawling the web to find suppliers of the parts that I need. None of them are in the UK & those that I have found in the USA, well none of them are Ford dealers either - they all appear to be independent dealers. I would far rather buy everything from a single source & from a Ford source at that but I cannot find one. If you can point me in the right direction then I will order everything from them but for me at least,this is proving impossible.
I have listed all of the main web sources that I have found - if you think I should avoid them then I will but I need to order these parts & the time spent on this search is proving consuming & frustrating in equal measure. As things stand, I will have to order the planet gear from one source, & various other parts from other suppliers, have everything delivered to a friend in Houston & then get him to rebox & send the bits over to the UK.
I am not looking for 'performance' parts, just parts that will do the job & are reasonably priced.
Some of the suppliers refer to kits & they do not detail which brand of parts are included - again, please tell me where I can order on the web - I am fast running out of Summer weather when I might be able to drive my truck.
I want to goto one single supplier for everything - where the parts are clearly listed & I can order exactly what I need.
Can you help?
I am all ears...............
Awaiting your reply with interest.
I really want to order everything before Sunday ........

[ADE ROWBERRY UK]

Another question - I am not sure that the kickdown arm / lever was working properly & this might have been a factor that contributed to the demise of the forward clutch in my C4 gearbox. Does any one have any visuals showing precisely how this arm should be connected to the carburettor (mine is a Holley carb I think).
I read in my Haynes manual (I think) that there is a port on the carb where pressure readings can be taken & pressure should be checked - at certain engine RPM I presume. How do you check that the kickdown is working properly? I am a bit worried that the work & expense rebuilding the gearbox could rapidly unwind if the kickdown arm is not working properly.......
If Donnie or anyone can give me some advice on exactly what I need to do I would appreciate it.......
For example - are there any diagrams to show the connection configuration of the kickdown arm to the carb?
Where can I order replacement parts for this?
I think that the link may be missing an adjustment screw but without seeing how it should be set up then I cannot tell.....
Help / advice wanted please!
Thank you.

[Donnie]

Ade, I looked back over some thing's that you sent prior. The Makco kit #26006C-box-1 looks pretty complete..except for the planetary.
They ship overseas & have contact availability on their web site....Ask them whose paper & rubber set the supply..(Transtec or Precision International) preferred although there are others...contact them & let me know.
They also sell Transgo valve body kits......get the $22.00 one for your truck.
Get a tub of LIFE blue assy lube
ask about the bushing's that you need
There is a member on this thread that supplies core parts...I don't know if he has a good planet that he can sell you, or if he is following this thread......try to contact Ultra ranger.......I think I am correct in that he sells used parts...If I am wrong let me know & I will find you a source for new or good used...I can check with my local ford dealer to see if they will send you one...Donnie

[Donnie]

Ade.........take a look at Fatsco Transmission Parts...........Donnie

[Donnie]

Sorry for the error in my previous post..........the member that I was thinking of was mmerlinn Not ultraranger, sorry for the brain fart..Donnie

[mmerlinn]

Donnie. I was not following this post. In fact, just stumbled upon it as I was reviewing what I missed in the last several days. However Adrian has contacted me about the planet.