It's certainly a 2150 rod, but bent. If you can tweak it so that the pump lever moves the pump at the same time the throttle moves you will be in good shape. You don't want it pushing the pump in at all at idle though.Clunker wrote: Yep! There are a lot of modifications that the PO made on this truck, many of them with questionable skill or judgment. Since this is my first Ford, I have no idea what is stock and what is a modification unless it's something obvious. Does the accel rod look stock to you but damaged, or is it just another jimmy-rigged part?
Ahhh. That will not help if your canister is bad! The test you did is valid as long as you're sure there was no other leak. Another quick way I test when its running is suck on the line to the distributor. If it revs when you suck it's pulling advance. If you hold it and it looses the vacuum the RPM's will drop back to normal and you know your can is leaking. It's a simple change.Clunker wrote:For a while, I was thinking that something was wrong with the port on my carb because I wasn't getting any vacuum at idle. At that time I had it hooked up to the manifold. Fortunately, another forum member clued me in that the carb port doesn't have any vacuum until you hit the throttle, so the vacuum advance is now connected correctly to the carb port and the manifold port is capped. I tinkered around with the vacuum advance a bit and I'm beginning to suspect again that it is not functioning properly. I read somewhere that you should be able to advance the distributor plate by hand, and plug the port with your finger. When you release the plate while keeping your finger on the port, it should not return to its original position unless there is a leak. I don't know if this is an accurate test, but it failed miserably. If I had a MightyVac, I would just test it properly.
Unless there is a blockage, the spark port should read 0 vacuum at idle. As soon as the throttle cracks it exposes that port to vacuum. If the curb idle screw is set too high (to compensate for other problems) it could expose that port to vacuum at "idle" because the throttle blades are slightly cracked open. That will really mess you up. So if you read 0 at idle, then read vacuum when the throttle is touched, that port is all good.
Thanks for the info. Your carb is 356cfm if you didn't already know. You can try moving the pump rod down 1 hole at a time to see if it helps. My 360 has a 1.14 (300cfm) and likes the 3rd hole (from bottom up).Clunker wrote:Carb casting number: 1.23
Jets: I have no idea. One of the PO's put in a remanufactured carb somewhere around 2001, but I have no documentation of what size jets were installed.
Pump Rod: The accelerator pump rod is connected to the top hole of 4 holes on the bell crank.
Do one thing at a time though. Figure out the vacuum advance then move to the carb if you still need to.
you can check to see if the vaccuum advance is working with the engine off ,with the distributor cap off ( and looking into the distributor.. obviously) suck on the hose going to the vac. advance diaphram ,if it moves its all good 98% of the time
I hate when things start to unravel like that. 
