Dana 24 disassembly/ rebuild

[jlycans]

Just bought a 72 f250. Someone drove it with bad t-case mounts and beat the bearings out of the input and rear output. Finding mounts, bearings and seals is not a problem, finding disassembly/ rebuild info online.....impossible so far. I have contacted every reputible shop in the U.S. Replacing it with 205 not an option for me for a while and would prefer to keep it original. HELP!

[basketcase0302]

Maybe this will help:



And have you tried the Dana library for literature on the 24:
http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/depdf.aspx?prod=AXL

[eggman918]

A few years back I rebuilt my 24 with only the above diagram and it went pretty smooth,it is a very straight forward project.the trickiest part for me was keeping the lose needle/roller bearings in place
while assembling the main shaft,I finely ended up putting them in the pocket with grease and putting it in the freezer till it got good and stiff then they stayed put while I lined it up
Use your digital camera take lots of pics for reference and you should be OK. this is the D-24 Dwg.

[jlycans]

Thanks for the response guys. That diagram is the only thing I have been able to source. Where should I start? Do the bearings press off the shaft while still in the case? Which direction? etc. I have been a Samurai guy since the mid nineties. Installed 6.5:1 gears in a sammy case. I'm just a little confused where you can't split this case. Would love to come up with some literature. Thanks again, and this is a great site.

[DisposableAssets]

Most of those old Dana cases are very straightforward. Unlike many of the chain driven and viscous clutch style cases today. The above diagram is pretty much all you will need. With the needle bearings I have used "red and tacky" Lucas grease and it holds them in place long enough to install the shaft. I've rebuilt a few Dana 20 cases from a few CJ Jeeps, and they were all fairly easy. I took a ton of pictures, labeled, and bagged everything. A parts washer or loads of brake clean will be your best friend too. Also don't forget to use some kind of grease or oil on the yoke seals during install. That way they slide around the shafts without ripping.

[eggman918]

Thanks for the response guys. That diagram is the only thing I have been able to source. Where should I start? Do the bearings press off the shaft while still in the case? Which direction? etc. I have been a Samurai guy since the mid nineties. Installed 6.5:1 gears in a sammy case. I'm just a little confused where you can't split this case. Would love to come up with some literature. Thanks again, and this is a great site.

The bearings are a slip fit in the case and a press fit on the shafts, I think it's only .0003" interference so if you dont have a press they can be installed with a bearing driver and a #3 hammer or you can
heat them in a small pot of clean motor oil heated to 325-350 degrees we used an old deep fryer for that job in the last shop I worked at.

[jlycans]

Good deal. I guess just take the set screw/bolt from the shift collar and slide it into the case and hit the shaft with a dead blow will work? Next question is about the 50W recomendation. Is it absolutely necessary or will 75-90 be okay? Sorry about so many ?'s, not trying to wear you out. Just anxious to get this thing going. Had a 71 about 10 years ago and have kicked myself for getting rid of it. Very hard to find around here (SW West Virginia)

[basketcase0302]

I ran 75-90 in the 24 of my old early Bronco for over 20 years with no issues, (South Florida though). But maybe get a little more input on the difference in the temps up here-versus running the lighter weight.

[eggman918]

From '91 till I overhauled it in 08 ran 75-90,now I am running 75-90 synthetic so far so good,the synthetic is about the same thickness as 50 wt

[averagef250]

Most of the D23/24 cases I've rebuilt have had damaged pocket bearings a long with the input bearings being pretty hammered/sloppy. The pocket bearing must starve for lube in these old things. Opened up a bunch of these old cases to find the pocket bearing has been machined out for a bronze bushing. I rebuilt the 24 in my '70 a couple times in a little over a year (lot of miles though). I just used off the shelf kits and ran low grade 90wt. `I swear I could tow a 10K pound trailer 500 miles and destroy the bearings in a 24. I went to a 205, no more issues.

I have rebuilt a few D23's and 24's since then and I have switched to buying just the gasket kit and using all Koyo or better sealed bearings instead of the original open faced and running synthetic lube.

The sealed bearings never starve for lube and only rely on the oil for cooling. Most modern transmissions and transfercases also use sealed bearings in applications like this and it greatly increases the life and power handling abilities.

All the bearings in a 24 are off the shelf metric bearings.