Dana 44 front rebuild questions

[roachrider]

460 crew: I've got the knuckle loose. That problem is, now that's it's loose, I have to finish getting the nut unscrewed since the knuckle just spins when I try and undo the nut. I can't quite hold it with pliers hard enough either.

I should add, the axle nuts weren't "on". The locknut was completely unscrewed and just floating behind the lockout hub and the nut that pushes on the bearing was so loose I just unscrewed it with my fingers. Kinda made me nervous to think I've been driving around like that.

[roachrider]

One more question. In the parts diagram from before, there's a bushing in the inside of the spindle. It's number 3110. I originally thought that was going to be a needle bearing and planned on replacing it. The bushing and the axle both look fine, no scratches or rust so is there any need to replace this since it doesn't actually support any weight?

[460 crew]

Do you have a pic of what you have going on right now? Also on the replacment of the bushing I'd replace it if you can get one while you have it all opened up. Are you sure you don't wanna drive down here and pick up a D44 disk setup I have all it needs is the hub stuff that it was raped of at the junkyard? And maybe some new dust shields for the brakes. I also have a D44 drum with all new brakes and hardware and wheel cylinders and POR15'd?

[4x4x4crewcab]

The 3110 should be a bronze bushing-- the I.D. should be 1 3/8" I would think it would be ok but you may want to measure the inside to make sure.
There should also be a spacer between the two bearing locknuts and one of the locknuts should have a small guide pin on it.
As for the tierod end I would think you could just grab it and hold it tight with a visegrip and then remove the nut on the top. The part of the joint under the boot should be tapered so if it has fallen down a little it shouldn't take to much more for it to release. After you get it out check it for play in/out or up/down it may be worn and also need replaced.
The inner axle seal in the diagram I do believe must be replaced from inside the pumkin area. Not sure as I didn't get to those but I do think thats another project in itself.

[roachrider]

Sweet! 460 Crew, that was exactly the info I was looking for on the dust boots. I didn't know you could buy them by themselves.

I'm going to order some new boots. In the meantime, I cut the old one off and that allowed me to get enough purchase with a pair of vise grips to stop the joint from turning while I removed the nut the rest of the way.

4x4x4crewcab, Thanks for the info on the diameter of the bushing. I'll measure them. I'm going to mike the axle at the point that passes through the bushing and measure the ID of the bushing. What clearance should they have between them normally?

You're absolutely correct about the inner axle seals being in the pumpkin. I dropped the cover and pulled the diff and ring gear out and checked them out tonight. The passenger side seal is practically non-existant so I'm replacing them both.

Well, I'm off to the parts store tomorrow with a list of part numbers to order to hopefully solve all these problems once and for all! I'll keep you guys posted on how it comes out.

[roachrider]

I pulled the carrier out tonight to replace the axle seals. The carrier bearing races look like part of them was above the gear oil and rusted/pitted. Maybe the truck sat for a long time with the PO...

Anyway, here's the pics. Is this a must replace, or could it wait for a month or so if I'm not planning on doing any 4wheeling before then?

I'll be replacing the gears and carrier with the next paycheck so they'll match the rear I'm putting under the truck(D70 w/4.10's). It should make it a bit nicer on the highway instead of the 4.56's I've got now. Do you guys think I could wait until then or do I have to replace them now? If I replace them, do I need to mock up the rear end, use the marking compound, and possibly reshim? With the carrier bearings looking like this, do I need to pull the pinion and check it? It's got no noticeable play.

Can I just drive the kingpin races out with a screwdriver and a hammer on the lip that is exposed from the backside? You can see they were pretty bad as well. With new bearings there, will I need to measure or adjust anything on reassembly?

[roachrider]

I finally got the axle put back together and back on the truck! I had figured on spending a weekend on it and just replacing seals and bad bearings. It took six weeks and only the housing, knuckles and hubs are left from the original axle. In other words, it ended up like most of my projects.

Turns out, after all that...the squeaking is still there. It's the driveshaft's u-joint. I'm still glad I pulled the axle apart. It was pretty bad inside.

So, the list of horrors included those carrier, pinion and kingpin bearings I posted pics of. The drivers side spindle locknut was off and the bearing nut was working it's way loose. I had NO passengers side brakes. The diff housing was cracked. Also, my suspension had sagged enough that on a right turn, my tires rubbed on a sharp edge on the draglink and it ate up a tire about twice a year.

I ended up welding up the housing, replacing all bearings/races, seals, TREs, springs, bushings, wheel cylinders, brake pads, drums, u-joints, etc. I spent five straight days wirebrushing everything. I even wirebrushed the bolts! If there's an award for OCD, I think I won it this year. Marine-Cleaned, Metal-Readied, and POR-15'ed everything. Regeared it to match the new rear-end and put a locker in. Put new WARN premium hubs on it.

The springs lifted it an honest four plus inches over where it was previously. I can finally do a hard right turn again! Backing up with a trailer will be a breeze now...

Just for kicks, check out the pics. In the view of the side of the truck with the tire on, the full weight of the truck is on the axle. The hoist is just sitting to the side. You can see by the shiny spot on the shocks and draglink where the tire used to rub and how high it was in the wheelwell. There was maybe 1" between the top of the tire and the top of the wheelwell before...

Well, I'll shutup now I just had to brag about my new toy and offer a HUGE thank you to everyone that helped with parts, advice, manuals, etc, etc, etc!

[roachrider]

One more pic.

[460 crew]

Looks good I got excited to see them springs on there it's kinda sick. If you could get a measurment from the center of your axle hub and the top of the fender. I'm curious what it might be.

[4x4x4crewcab]

Congratulations on a job well done. Looks real nice

[MudinMan4x4]

looks great ... this made for great reading sence I'm gona be doing the same thing here real soon ...

[roachrider]

460 crew: Here's the measurements

Center of hub to ground: 16.5"
Center of hub to fender: 25"

[460 crew]

Cool I'll have to see what mine measures to compare with my overpriced skyjacker springs

[roachrider]

Post it on here. I'm kinda curious too.

[460 crew]

Center of hub to ground: 16.5" are you running 35's also
Center of hub to fender: 28.5 on the driver side and a full 29 on the passanger. Also I have 9in from the top of the spring pack between the u-bolts to the frame. I prob have a little more lift the 79 I took the springs off of that you have now had 1in longer hangers for the rear of the springs so I used those instead of my originals.