Flipped my front hangers...what degree of shim???

[F100builder]

I flipped the front hangers on my '69 today and as near as I can tell, it changed the pinion angle about 4 degrees as there is now approximately 4 degrees difference between the C6's tail and the Dana's pinion. I know there are some people on here that have done this and I was just wanting to compare. I went ahead and ordered some 4 deg. shims from Summit and I plan on getting the shocks locally. Tomorrow, I'm tackling the front disc upgrade, DJM beams, and the full set of all new brake lines. The rotors, bearings/seals, calipers, and pads are all new and I've already blasted and painted the spindles, brackets, dust shields, etc. I'm also planning on cutting one full coil out of each spring. I'll be taking pictures and post them when I can! I can't wait to get down!

Finally, I also got some wheel adapters and thought I might 'borrow' the new wheels & tires from my '56 as it'll be a few years until it needs them and it seems a waste to let them just sit in my garage. Besides, I may want a different style or size for the '56 when I'm closer to getting it done. The wheels are Coys 18's & 17's.

[fordman]

if i remember correctly. everyone said a 6 degree shim. but that was on a 9 inch rearend i think.

[F100builder]

Well, here it is...it's on 4 wheels but there are NO BRAKES yet. I still need to install all of the new brake lines along with a new master. It's about like I was thinking. I didn't go low enough in the back to absolutely need c-notches (I flipped the front leaf hangers yesterday) and I cut just one full coil out of the front springs for the DJM beams. The pics start with a few BEFORE shots and end with the way it looks right now...



Out with the drums!





In with the rotors!



...and back on all fours! I like it!!!

[survivorman]

Summit has a shim with notches so you can stack them if nessacary.

[F100builder]

Well, if I'm not mistaken, I believe the tranny tail and pinion should be the same angle. I measured approximately 4 degrees difference and so that's what I ordered...I hope it will do. I'll double check before I install them and swap them for 6 degree ones if needed.

[michael69]

You may not even need the shims. I would give it a test drive and see if you have any vibiration,if not I wouldn't even use shims. Some need them and some don't. By the way did you do the half hanger or did you go all the way with the hanger flip.Can you post pic of the hanger? Also how wide are your rear rims,and what tire size? Looking good

[F100builder]

You may not even need the shims. I would give it a test drive and see if you have any vibiration,if not I wouldn't even use shims. Some need them and some don't. By the way did you do the half hanger or did you go all the way with the hanger flip.Can you post pic of the hanger? Also how wide are your rear rims,and what tire size? Looking good

Thanks! I will definitely be needing the shims...saves the u-joints!

I did the full hanger flip. The picture below is someone else's photo (I can't remember!) that I saved from these forums a while back. The two black-headed bolts are located in two original holes while the other two had to be drilled. I enlarged mine to 1/2" from 7/16". This relocates the front spring eyelet approximately 9" higher for a total of roughly 5" at the axle's centerline.

The wheels are 15x8's with 275/60-15's on the back and 15x7's with 245/60-15's on the front. I felt that the 15's fit the old school look that I wanted but I may be trying on my 17's and 18's from my '56 just for fun as they are just sitting there brand new and all and my '56 has a few more years of work before it needs any rollers. I might as well use 'em! Besides, I could switch back and forth depending on my mood I suppose.

[BobbyFord]

The key to avoiding driveline issues after a rear suspension modification is to measure before the modification and return the pinion angle to original measurements after the modification.

[F100builder]

The key to avoiding driveline issues after a rear suspension modification is to measure before the modification and return the pinion angle to original measurements after the modification.

Yeah, but I forgot to measure it beforehand. As long as it matches the angle of the transmission, all will be good. I should be within a degree or two at the most if not dead on. I'll drive it for a bit after I get the shims in to see if I need to fine tune it.

That reminds me...didn't you end up with E-series van front shocks for the rear of yours and if I need eyelets on BOTH ends I use the fronts from a '73-'87 GM 1/2 ton???

[BobbyFord]

Yes, for eyelets on both ends, use the 73-87 GM front shocks.

[F100builder]

Thanks!

[aaronb]

looks good. what are the specs on the front brakes? I need to do this to mine.

[F100builder]

Thanks! With the exception of the DJM dropped beams which included new kingpins, it's all from a '75 F100 2WD. Well, the spindles, ,coils, radius arms, steering link, proportioning valve, brake hose brackets, and booster are from a '75...the rotors, calipers, pads, bearings, brake lines (hard lines and hoses), and master cylinder are all new replacement parts specifically for a '75. '73-'74 have the same kingpin as a '67-'72 while the '75-'79 have an ever so slightly bigger one. So, some parts are spindle year specific but I believe that all of the brake stuff is the same from '73-'79. It all just bolts right in! Check out the tech article on this site.

http://www.fordification.com/tech/discbrakes01.htm

BTW...I replaced all 4 shocks and have yet to install all of the polyurethane bushings for the rear (front has them with the DJM install). It should drive, handle, and brake like a new truck (a new '73-'79 anyway)!!!

[BobbyFord]

How much clearance do you have between the frame and the rear axle housing? Did you have to move or modify the axle snubbers? How much measured drop did you yield?

[F100builder]

How much clearance do you have between the frame and the rear axle housing? Did you have to move or modify the axle snubbers? How much measured drop did you yield?

I got about a 4.5" drop and have about 2.5" between the snubbers and the axle housing which should be enough for what I use this truck for. I could gain at least another inch if I take the snubbers out and grind them down a little but I'll just have to see. I only haul a few 2x4's and a bag of dog food once in a while. My truck is semi-retired! If I do go lower, I'll have to C-notch it.