Dana 60 FF reassembly question

[ChrisB]

For those of you who've done it at least a few times. I am putting the hub back on. There are two 2-3/8 head spindle nuts that go back on with a locking washer that sandwiches between them. Can you describe the order and torque specs for tightening these? I want to get the preload right and make sure this thing doesn't back out again, though I didn't work on it the first time. It's what I believe to be the original in a 69 F250 with the 16 spline axles and the 2.5" wide drum brakes, posi 3.73.

Thanks a bunch


Chris

[Wes]

I would highly recommend getting the socket for nuts. Also clean off any previous chisel burrs w/ a file. Install drum bearing and inside nut finger tight, while spinning drum in forward torque nut to 50 foot pounds, back off 90 degrees. Install lock ring, nut and torque to ......umm Tight ( can't find spec) then bend the tabs over.
I also recommend using a gasket and not silicone, is just easier and nicer all the way around and never have to do it twice.
Wes

[roachrider]

According to the Haynes manual, tighten the adjuster to 50-80 ft/lb and then back it off 3/8 of a turn. Tighten the locknut to 90-110 ft/lb.

[ChrisB]

Thank you both.

Your advice is matching closely with what others are saying. I am guessing 2-3 .001s play is about right for the 'feel'. As I don't have the manual (too many vehicles) I could only guess, and would probably be off enough to cause this again, as it happened on both my identical rears in two different trucks last worked on by two different people unkown to me.

On the gasket, everyone except you Wes is recommending only using silicone. I am reluctant to leave the gasket off, but have in rearend cover applications as recommended by word of mouth and in books, and haven't had a problem, so we'll see how it goes. Gonna put it together tomorrow night.

BTW, found a Timken bearing, the one with larger cylinderical rollers (needle bearings I guess?), and the other was a Bower I think, it said Japan on it. They both look good. I am assuming at least the made in Japan is a replacement?

No grease needed on the bearings, just soak em in gear oil and add oil to whatever recess surface might be in the hub near the bearings? It's all oil bath?


Thanks

Chris

[heep70]

Yep