Truck A:
1970 F250 2WD PB PS 360/C6 LWB= Daily driver
Truck A has severe rust around the drip rail all the way around the top of the cab. It also has what can only be described as a rats nest for a wiring harness causing electrical gremlins that I can no longer deal with.
The dash is busted up pretty bad, The AC unit is beat up a little but it works.
The good thing about truck A is that it has had new floor pans welded in just two years ago so the bottom of it is solid.
Truck B:
1972 F100 2WD PS 360/C6 LWB = Doner truck
Truck B has a light surface rust on the outside and NO rust thru anywhere on the top or around the drip rail. It has an almost virgin wiring harness in that the only splicing I can find is where someone installed an aftermarket radio.
The dash is unbelievably in perfect condition. No cracks or marks anywhere.
The AC unit looks to be in excellent condition although I have no idea if it works. It does look like a bunch of mud dobbers made a nest in there though.
Unfortunately, the floor boards are rusted out so that will have to be dealt with to use this cab
Scenario:
I dont have much cash left over after purchasing the doner truck and I need to keep the cab swap time to a minimum because truck A (the swap recipient) is my daily driver.
My biggest problem is that I am usualy a victim of the "as long as your doing that you might as well" syndrome and I either drag a project out too long, costing more than I have, or cant complete it. I dont have those options with this one and Im not going to neglect my truck.
I purchased this doner truck (truck B) specificaly for its cab.Ive been proud to help a few others out with spare parts from it also but its main purpose has been to provide a rust free base for me to work with on my 70.
I do wish I could take the time and had the money to do a complete custom resto like Keith or some others Ive seen here. Maybe someday.
Objective:
To use the 72 cab on the 70 frame with the best of both cabs operational as a daily driver and to complete the task with minimal down time.
Progress:
So far I have already removed the seat, tank, and doors from the doner cab (Truck B) and actualy removed the cab itself from the frame.
Its now sitting on the ground in my driveway.
Im trying to get as much done as I can while still driving the 70 so Im trying to consider any cab prep that can be done in advance before actualy removing the cab from the 70.
Complications:
1) My garage is only large enough to store my tools. I dont have the luxury of an enclosed shop to work in so I have to do it in my driveway.
2) My drive way is narrow. Its only wide enough for one vehicle at a time.
So I have to figure out how to pull my truck up into to back yard where the doner cab is, remove the existing cab, and then somehow jockey it out of the way to make room for the new cab to go back on.
Its gonna be a trick to say the least.
Questions:
1) I have removed the doner cab with the steering column still attatched. Both trucks have power steering with identicle gear boxes.
Do I have to change the steering column from the 70 to the 72? is there any differences I need to worry about?
2) The 72 cab has a good wiring harness and Im assuming a good guage set. Ive read here that 70 and 72 guage sets are different and cant be swapped.
Is it because of the wiring harness difference or some other reason?
Should I just leave well enough alone and leave the 72 guage set in the cab and be happy?
3) Both trucks have factory installed AC. The AC in the 70 works but the external case in the cab is kinda beat up. The case in the 72 is in almost perfect shape but the condistion of the AC unit is unknown. It does look like a bunch of mud dobbers made a nest in it while it was sitting though.
Would you?
A) Just swap the cabs and try the AC out later? If it dont work you can always fix it after the cab is swapped.
B) Remove both AC units and go thru both of them keeping only the best of both for installation of the keeper cab.
4) Will the fuel tank out of the 70 fit in the cab of the 72? I want to use the tank out of my 70 because I know its clean inside and it dont have the extra tubing/venting mess sticking out of the top of it like the72s tank does.
I have more but Im afraid if I keep going on that soon a posse will form and not allow me to post again.
Cab Swap Questions
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- Sharkdance
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re: Cab Swap Questions
Replacing rusted out floorpanels (depending on how bad) would be a lot easier than repairing rust around the driprail. Considering the '72 cab has the good A/C setup, the good wiring harness and no upper cab rust, it seems to me that replacing the floorpans in it would definitely be the fastest/easiest way to go. Just cut the good floorpans out of your '70 and weld 'em into the '72, and you won't even have to worry about swapping a dash, wiring harness, A/C setup, etc., (though obviously you'd have to clean the A/C up a bit).
As long as both trucks had power steering, the columns will be identical...no swapping necessary. The fuel tanks are also the same, so you can swap those if needed.
Definitely sounds like you'll be doing some creative strategies when it comes time to swap the cabs, due to your limited workspace. From what I know of your setup, I think I'd go ahead and cut out the floorpans from the '70 and weld them into the '72. Then unbolt the '70 cab and just roll it off the frame out in the back yard. Then unbolt the '72 cab and lift it with your hoist and and leave it in the air. Roll the chassis out from under it and then roll your '70 chassis under the '72 cab and drop it down. Then you can manhandle the '70 cab up onto the '72 chassis to haul it away.
(did any of that make sense?)
As long as both trucks had power steering, the columns will be identical...no swapping necessary. The fuel tanks are also the same, so you can swap those if needed.
Definitely sounds like you'll be doing some creative strategies when it comes time to swap the cabs, due to your limited workspace. From what I know of your setup, I think I'd go ahead and cut out the floorpans from the '70 and weld them into the '72. Then unbolt the '70 cab and just roll it off the frame out in the back yard. Then unbolt the '72 cab and lift it with your hoist and and leave it in the air. Roll the chassis out from under it and then roll your '70 chassis under the '72 cab and drop it down. Then you can manhandle the '70 cab up onto the '72 chassis to haul it away.
(did any of that make sense?)
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
- flyboy2610
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re: Cab Swap Questions
Did to me.
Are the AC units factory or dealer installed?
If they are factory units you will need to use the one that works (regardless of looks) Unless you want to tear apart the '72 unit and replace the internals prior to switching cabs. I recommend replacing the internals on factory units because it would be a royal PIA to have to tear it back out to replace a faulty component. Or simply swap the internals from the '70 unit into the '72 case.
Are the AC units factory or dealer installed?
If they are factory units you will need to use the one that works (regardless of looks) Unless you want to tear apart the '72 unit and replace the internals prior to switching cabs. I recommend replacing the internals on factory units because it would be a royal PIA to have to tear it back out to replace a faulty component. Or simply swap the internals from the '70 unit into the '72 case.
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- 71Ford100
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re: Cab Swap Questions
Wouldn't you want to switch the clusters to keep the milage accurate?
Lance Peters
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'72 250 4x4 project,''71 F-100 daily driver,69 F-250 4x4 Crew, '68 F-100, '68 F-250 crew under restoration, '52 Dodge 1/2 ton overload, gazillion tractors and combines
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re: Cab Swap Questions
The clusters won't swap as a unit, since they each have different wiring harness connections. However, the speedometers themselves will interchange, so you COULD swap them if you're keeping mileage and/or maintenance records.
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
- Sharkdance
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re: Cab Swap Questions
The exact reasons you have ponted out is why I have chosen to go ahead and tackle the cab swap even in my less than desirable work space.
You may remember me posting a while back about my electrical problem. (near meltdown)
I figured I could solve several issues with my 70 in one sweep that way. With the electrical issue being the most pressing.
I also figured I would cut out the floor pans of the 70 and weld them into the 72 as well. Why buy new ones if I dont have to.
The 72 pans arent like rotted completely thru, but they are awfly thin and pitted in quite a few places. If I were to hit them with a wire brush Im sure there would be pin holes as a result.
And yes, your cab swap strategie made sense. Cept I have already removed the 72s cab. Its sittn in the drive way. Ill figure out how to git-r-done though. Just gonna have to be creative.
Both AC units are factory installed. Thanks to Keith for learnin me the difference between them
I think I will follow flyboy2610s advice and swap the guts of my working 70s AC unit into the 72 case. If any of the AC guts from the 72 turn out to be good Ill probably end up offering them up here.
Thanks for the replies guys, and any wisdome or moral support is welcome.
While Ive built more engines than I can count, this is the first cab swap Ive ever attempted. Im learnin as I go.
You may remember me posting a while back about my electrical problem. (near meltdown)
I figured I could solve several issues with my 70 in one sweep that way. With the electrical issue being the most pressing.
I also figured I would cut out the floor pans of the 70 and weld them into the 72 as well. Why buy new ones if I dont have to.
The 72 pans arent like rotted completely thru, but they are awfly thin and pitted in quite a few places. If I were to hit them with a wire brush Im sure there would be pin holes as a result.
And yes, your cab swap strategie made sense. Cept I have already removed the 72s cab. Its sittn in the drive way. Ill figure out how to git-r-done though. Just gonna have to be creative.
Both AC units are factory installed. Thanks to Keith for learnin me the difference between them
I think I will follow flyboy2610s advice and swap the guts of my working 70s AC unit into the 72 case. If any of the AC guts from the 72 turn out to be good Ill probably end up offering them up here.
Thanks for the replies guys, and any wisdome or moral support is welcome.
While Ive built more engines than I can count, this is the first cab swap Ive ever attempted. Im learnin as I go.
- Sharkdance
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re: Cab Swap Questions
Interesting bit of info about the guage set/cluster.
I figured Id have to leave the 72 cluster in because I am retaining the 72s wiring harness but I didnt know that I could swap only the speedo/odomiter part of the cluster.
Thanks! Great info!
I figured Id have to leave the 72 cluster in because I am retaining the 72s wiring harness but I didnt know that I could swap only the speedo/odomiter part of the cluster.
Thanks! Great info!
- flyboy2610
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re: Cab Swap Questions
Good luck! Post some pics if you can.
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."
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you'd better be right.
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Red Green
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you'd better be right.
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- 72hiboy4x4
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