Clutch adjustment rod too short?

[m-mman]

Suggestion: Tighten the three bolts in the presure plate COVER that screw into the plate itself.

These bolts compress the springs. IF they are loose, when you press the cluth in the plate will drag againt the disc and not release. These bolts are never touched by mechanics they are only manipulated by the PP rebuilders.

You will not be able to detect that they are loose with the PP unbolted from the flywheel.
Bolt the PP and disc to the flywheel. THEN tighten these bolts.

[sargentrs]

Tighten how much? Is there a torque spec or just to a grunt and 1/2?

[Alvin in AZ]

Suggestion:
Tighten the three bolts in the presure plate COVER that screw into the plate itself.
These bolts are never touched by mechanics they are only... {messed with by tinkerers;}
You will not be able to detect that they are loose with the PP unbolted from the flywheel.
Bolt the PP and disc to the flywheel. THEN tighten these bolts.

I've had to re-shim Borg Warner clutches to get them to contact the disc "flat". :)
My last clutch is a McLeod from a "speed" shop and basically looks like it was made by Borg
Warner but there's more care in its adjustment etc. {shrug}

------------------------------

Sarge, was able to read your post this morning, must be feeling more patient or something. ;)

Measure everything the best you can and try to find any differences between the old
clutch and the new one. If they measure the same, something else has changed, find
what that is. :)

Don't count on anything, starting with... "you've got the right clutch" like Knight said.

The problem is there in front of you, you just have to find it and at this point I'll bet it's
something you "think" is right ...so you're looking -past- it, not -at- it.

BTDT a jillion times as a signal maintainer looking for signal trouble. LOL :)

You can find it if you don't give up. As easy as that. ;)

"change out your flashlight battery ;)"
That's what I'd do in the middle of the night when having trouble finding the problem/s.
Many times I'd put a new 6 volt battery in my hat-mounted-light and get-back-after-it
and figure out the problem, just like that. No kidding. :)

It was about starting over and thinking about the trouble in a different way.
But more light helped too. ;)

Alvin in AZ

[sargentrs]

Thanks for pep talk, Alvin! I'm a pretty patient man. Besides, she's been sitting for a month now so what's a couple more days? Got a friend coming over tomorrow for a fresh set of eyes and mind.

Was anybody able to check if the Duralast NU0465 was "the right clutch"? I've been given the wrong stuff at AZ before. When I bought another TO bearing, they asked me if it was heavy duty or standard duty and then came back and said the same part number came up for both.

[knightfire83]

I researched the clutch kit info. Your NU0465 clutch kit is manufactured by Fenco out of Canada a supplier to Auto Zone.

Fenco is the re manufactured brand / Dynapak is their new items.

They list the application from a 240 6cyl all the way thru the FE360 for 1966-1977 in various Ford models.

Throwout bearing part #'s are all the same too.

So if all the correct parts are in the box, it would be the correct part number for the kit.

[sargentrs]

Thanks Knightfire! 1 down. Right kit #. Probably going to take it back, tell 'em it's defective, still under warranty, and start with a new one.

[sargentrs]

Got it! I think. Got a buddy over and we took a long, hard look at all the pieces. Found a scrape in the bell housing, by the hole where the clutch fork goes through, on one of the ribs. Took the old pressure plate and the new one and put 'em back to back and started making measurements. The lever lugs on the outside of the new pressure pressure plate (tranny side) stuck out about 1/16" higher than the old one. Then, laid 'em both face down and saw that the lugs on the old pressure plate had a slight twist to 'em. Conclusion: When pressing on the clutch, the lugs were sticking out too far and nicking the ribs on the inside of the bell housing. The more you push, the harder they hit. Why now and not before, who knows?

Put the old clutch back in and everything seems OK. Haven't taken her for a spin yet but she's got torque to the rear wheels and no noise or chatter from the clutch.

Thanks for your advice and encouragement guys!

[garinger]

Thought I'd throw in my 2 cents and mention that over time suppliers have cut corners in there product to be competitive. The original t/o bearing was a greaseable cast iron unit with a large face bearing, now they use a stamped steel body with a self centering bearing that is up to 1/4" shorter. I don't know what you have but make sure the bell crank bushings and it's alighnment are in good order, you don't want any slack in this system.

[sargentrs]

Interesting you should mention about the TO bearing. The original one that came with the "new" clutch kit had a broken clip when I took it out. It was the sealed bearing type. I bought a new one from AZ and it was the old (greaseable), cast iron type you're talking about. Both myself and the AZ guy were surprised to see it! Last couple I've bought were the new style and he said he thought they'd quit making them. That would also explain why, before, I had to lengthen my adjusting rod and now it looks like I'm going to have to shorten it.

[garinger]

Oh by the way, make sure all bushings are good in the bell crank equalizer bar and that it is greased well.

[BigFoot]

Found a scrape in the bell housing, by the hole where the clutch fork goes through, on one of the ribs. Took the old pressure plate and the new one and put 'em back to back and started making measurements. The lever lugs on the outside of the new pressure pressure plate (tranny side) stuck out about 1/16" higher than the old one. Then, laid 'em both face down and saw that the lugs on the old pressure plate had a slight twist to 'em. Conclusion: When pressing on the clutch, the lugs were sticking out too far and nicking the ribs on the inside of the bell housing. The more you push, the harder they hit. Why now and not before, who knows?

Which clutch kit did you use, NU0465 or NU0465D ? I used NU0465D and I had the same scraping problem and the clutch wont disengage. Im going to buy the NU0465 and hope for the best.

[sargentrs]

Sorry, it's been so long ago that I don't remember which one it was. Shoot, I only vaguely remember changing out the clutch Let us know what you find out though, it may help somebody else in the future. Thanks!