Yoke Bolt size on 69 f-250?

[krumpelsaurusrex]

I need to replace my yoke on my rear end. The largest socket I have is 1 1/4 and it is to small. I am just going to try to buy that one socket or a set with the correct size, but hate to continue the return and try another approach.

Any help would be appreciated.

69 f-250 360 engine 2wd, manual trans.

Corey

[robroy]

Hi Corey!

If you have a Dana 60 rear end then it's probably a 1 and 5/16" nut.

In order to get this nut off, you'll probably need to get a socket that's especially thin. Most sockets that large have walls that are thick enough to interfere with body of the yoke.

I ordered a Proto 1 and 5/16" socket from McMaster.com (part number 5545A271) for $14 and it worked perfectly. It's very thin! Here's a picture:



And here's the thread I started a while back asking a question similar (kind of) to yours:

http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... &sk=t&sd=a

Robroy

[krumpelsaurusrex]

I am pretty sure its the Dana 60, I guess my VIN, or the tag on my door would tell me right?

Good thing I asked, cause I would have never guessed that size. I had to pull my driveshaft and the yoke seems like it would be best to replace while I have the entire rear drivetrain pulled apart. But I have to go to the wrecking yard to pull the yoke, and had no clue what size it was.

I'll look for a thin walled like you showed, if not I'll just order your recommended part.

How hard was that bolt to pull off. The truck I want to yank this from is up on a "stand" and since I pulled the driveshaft the wheels spin. It's a bit difficult to get them to stop turning when cranking in that area.
Any tips or suggestions?

[fordman]

get an impact. if the wheels arent on the ground its going to be impossible without a impact. if you stick out with the yoke let me know i have one off of a dana 60 from a f250.

[robroy]

Hi Corey!

I am pretty sure its the Dana 60, I guess my VIN, or the tag on my door would tell me right?

In order to positively identify the rear I think you'll need to locate its ID tag. And since you'll be under the truck in that area anyways this might not be too difficult. Here's a photo of the ID tag on my Dana 60:



Unfortunately I forget exactly where this tag was located, but I think it was somewhere on the differential cover. It was covered in enough dirt and oil that I couldn't read it without giving it a good bath with WD-40 and rags first.

Here's a thread that I started last year about rear end identification. Note that in the second reply, Dustin says that all F250s have the same Dana 60 rear end between 1957 through 1972.

http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... =4&t=34757

Good thing I asked, cause I would have never guessed that size. I had to pull my driveshaft and the yoke seems like it would be best to replace while I have the entire rear drivetrain pulled apart. But I have to go to the wrecking yard to pull the yoke, and had no clue what size it was.

Sounds great!

I'll look for a thin walled like you showed, if not I'll just order your recommended part.

Perfect!

How hard was that bolt to pull off. The truck I want to yank this from is up on a "stand" and since I pulled the driveshaft the wheels spin. It's a bit difficult to get them to stop turning when cranking in that area.

It was actually pretty tough to pull the nut off, and I had my truck on the ground so it was held in one place (more or less). It's amazing how a little torque on that nut can really try to spin those rear wheels! I was moving the truck back and forth hopelessly. Finally I put an air impact gun on the non-impact, Proto socket and it came right off. As suggested by Fordman, the impact gun will be your only feasible way (that I can think of) to remove that yoke--especially if the rear wheels aren't on the ground.

get an impact. if the wheels arent on the ground its going to be impossible without a impact.

Hey Fordman! On this point I agree completely. Even if the rear wheels are on the ground, an impact wrench will remove the nut a lot more easily than anything else.

About getting an impact socket, I have yet to see an impact socket with thin enough walls to fit on that nut. Corey, you'll probably wind up needing to use an impact wrench on the thin-walled, non-impact socket.

Robroy

[krumpelsaurusrex]

H Corey, you'll probably wind up needing to use an impact wrench on the thin-walled, non-impact socket.

Robroy

Fordman and Robroy, Thanks for the info. I have an impact, but it's not going to help with no electricity or air tank at the yard. I did talk to my buddy and he has a new cordless impact wrench that I can use. I was corrected in my terminology and I guess the part is called a companion flange. after closer inspection after cleaning it, it looks like its in acceptable condition. I initially thought the bolt holes were broke, but really its just flattened on one side, and all of them are this way. As long as the bolts go in with minimum trouble (a few knocks of the hammer) I think it will be ok to use. If not I have to go to the yard to pull some u-bolts and plates for suspension and will give the cordless impact a try.

*Update*
Well It looks like I am back to my original plan of replacing the companion flange. I used my digital caliper to measure the width and length of each bolt opening and it is actually bent. Also noticed some cracks on the side of each hole. Best to just replace.

[sideoilerfe]

...Dustin says that all F250s have the same Dana 60 rear end between 1957 through 1972.

Ok, I know that's not true. I've had 5 F250's and they all had different Dana 60's. The '65 was similar to the '68 I have currently but not the same that's for sure. The hubs and brake drums are Definitely different. The '65 had different axles. They had a different design on them.

The '70 2wd I had, it had the 2" brakes so the differential housings and the hubs are different from those with the 2 1/2" brakes. The housings with the 2' brakes are the overall same width but if you measure from backing plate to backing plate, there's a difference. in other words you cannot put 2 1/2" brakes on a 2" brake Dana 60. The hubs are also different than the earlier ones because on my '65 and my '68, I can pull the drum off without removing the axle and I cannot on the '70 -'72.

And the '72 2wd and my '70 hi-boy both have 2 1/2" brakes and look identical but the original hi-boy differential has a different outer bearing size and the hubs are NOT interchangeable. I learned this the hard way. The axles and the housings are both the same width and the axles interchange but the hubs are different and the rear seal is different. The 4wd hub would not fit on the 2wd 60.I t was too loose. So, I had to swap hubs. I replaced the 60 in my hi boy with one from a 2wd and thought they were the same...Imagine my surprise.

I think the axles from '68 to '72 were the same, possibly '67. But the housings and hubs definitely were not. BTW, the yoke nut is different too. I forget which size but the original high boy has a different size nut than the 2wd diff I replaced it with and possibly different than the '72 camper special. So there are at least 2 sized nuts and possibly 3.