Hi BntyHntr00, Fordman, Scott, and Convincor, thanks for replying!
bntyhntr00 wrote:Get some string with no elasticity in it.
Perhaps an electrical extension cord?
bntyhntr00 wrote:tie a knot at the end of it. hold the knot onto one area and extend it to the other area mark the string at the second area and measure between the two.
That's a good idea!
bntyhntr00 wrote:For the angle take the same string and attatch to the first area extend to the second and tie off taught as close to where you need it to be as possible. Hold an angle gauge up to the line and you can manipulate the string into the exact position that it needs to be to ensure an accurate measurement.
It seems that I may not need to take it to that level. Perhaps because of the design of this shaft, the driveshaft guy asked for the measurement to be between the yokes and the center of the holes that the center bearing retainer mounts to. Since that will undoubtedly be a little different than the measurement from the yoke flats to the center bearing itself, I may ask the guy again when I see him in the morning.
fordman wrote:what is wrong with your old shaft?
I initially removed it because it was so easy to access with the transmission out, and I wanted to make sure it was balanced. Then the drive shaft shop got it and told me that the center bearing had worn a groove in the shaft so serious that it wasn't repairable, and that they'd have to re-do part of the shaft to get a good bearing fit again.
Meanwhile, I heard from Dustin and others that the stock drive shaft wasn't really up to the engine I'm installing, and that I should think about having something stronger made. The drive shaft shop also had that opinion, so I went ahead with it.
The new shaft is made of steel that's about 80 thousandths thick (the factory tubing is around 50 thousandths), and the section between the center bearing and the rear end yoke is the same diameter as the front section (the factory tubing on the rear second was a lot smaller). Also, the U joints are being upgraded from 1310's to one 1330 Special (at the transmission) and two 1350s.
On top of all that, since I've installed polyurethane engine mounts made by John at AutoFab, and since the engine is different from the one it had before, it's possible that the differences could add up enough to make the stock shaft a poor fit. This way I'll know the fit is ideal.
Convincor, thank you! I'll read that in detail. I like the ready made diagrams they have for printing out and filling in. That will save me the bother of having to draw one myself and make it easier to talk to the drive shaft guy!
Happy_Camper wrote:I have to follow Fordman's lead here. Can the driveshaft shop duplicate the length of the stock shaft? Did you add something that would change the stock dimensions?
Hey Scott! The shop could duplicate the length of the stock shaft, but in their opinion, there are too many changes going in to the truck to do that safely. The engine mounts, engine, and yokes are all different from what the factory used.
Happy_Camper wrote:Otherwise two people is definitely the best way. You know the kid who keeps trying to get you to subscribe to the newspaper, so he can go on a world tour?... time to make him a deal.
Good idea!
Thanks again for all the great answers to my question! I'll keep ya'll updated with the method I use and how well it works.
Robroy