10.25 diffirential problems

Clutch, transmission, rear axle

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bubbasdavid
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10.25 diffirential problems

Post by bubbasdavid »

got a 97' f-250 LD when i turn at a stop sign the rear end starts to hop but doesn't do it when I go straight. The only thing that I can come up with is that the rear diff is not working properly, locking up.It is a 10.25 limited slip rear end. Just wondering how hard it really is to change the clutch pack/carrier in this thing. The parts guy at Ford said that it was pretty simple no special tools needed is this true or not.
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FreakysFords
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Re: 10.25 diffirential problems

Post by FreakysFords »

It really is pretty simple. A matter of diligence to some degree, but simple enough. Before I dug into it though, I'd change the fluid (75-140) and get a bottle of limited slip stinkum from your Ford dealership (really is better than the off the shelf stuff from the auto parts store in most cases). It comes in a small bottle and stinks like all get out, so do it outside and don't get it on anything you don't want to stink.
Darlin 69 Ranger 390 4v, PS, DS II, disc front, 3G alternator, 67 mirror.
bubbasdavid
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Re: 10.25 diffirential problems

Post by bubbasdavid »

Thank you for the input but I already tried that. Did it about 1000 miles ago and it still hasn't broke loose. Do you know if I need any special tools to do this job or just the basics take care of it.
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Re: 10.25 diffirential problems

Post by averagef250 »

The factory limited slip is a trac-lok, it's not much good for anything and usually isn't noticed as even being in there. I'd guess there's something wrong inside the carrier. You can remove it and disassemble it fairly easily with basic tools. Just do not mix up the bearing caps or the thick carrier shims. Also do not try to pound the carrier shims in after the carriers in. You have to put the shims in first or at the same time as the carrier.
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Re: 10.25 diffirential problems

Post by FreakysFords »

There are 2 dummy axles that are used to check the "break" point after it's done (at what torque the clutches slip). If you follow the procedure to the letter though, you should be fine. The dummy axle test is 'sorta' to double check your work.

Most Ford dealerships will let you borrow their manuals (in house only) when you buy the parts from them.

Make sure to presoak your friction disks, just like you would if building an automatic.
Take your time loading them and you should be set.
Darlin 69 Ranger 390 4v, PS, DS II, disc front, 3G alternator, 67 mirror.
bubbasdavid
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Re: 10.25 diffirential problems

Post by bubbasdavid »

Thanks guys for the input just wanted to be sure it wasn't gonna get ugly when I tore it apart ya know. This truck is the Black Sheep of the Ford family can't find parts seems like nobody even knows it exsists.
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Re: 10.25 diffirential problems

Post by zakt »

Did you check the U-joints?
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Re: 10.25 diffirential problems

Post by averagef250 »

U-joints cannot cause your tires to chirp around corners.

This may be a really dumb question, but how much throttle are you giving it around corners? If you stuff it everywhere in your truck that limited slip is going to lock the wheels together and your tires are going to chirp. I only ask because a friend is a driveability guy for a dealership and people are continuously coming in with thier new dodge hemi cars and pickups complaining of rear tire issues. He goes on a drive with them and they stuff the pedal at every light and the traction control takes over.
1970 F-250 4x4 original Willock swivel frame chassis '93 5.9 Cummins/Getrag/NP205/HP60/D70
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Re: 10.25 diffirential problems

Post by bubbasdavid »

not nearly enough that the posi should be kicking in I would say that if I give any more that 1/8 throttle it will do it you know just barely enough to git moving
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