Engine squeak/squeal

[thebannister8]

be very, very, careful in doing this:...either get a long screw driver or at hf&t you can buy the real device for 2 bucks....put the end of the screw driver on a safe place on the alternator or water pump, put the other end to your ear and take a listen...it takes a bit to get used to what sounds like what..but something in bad shape should be clear..it will be ratteling away......>>>> real tool.... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=41966

[rwilliam99]

Did you also look at the I - Beam busing on the other side 3B177? The bushing can be worn in inside where you cannot see it allowing the axle to tip front to back as well as forward or back. Pick the truck up with a jack right in front of the bushings and watch for movement. A good bushing will lift the truck with almost no movement of the radius arm before the truck lifts.

I did not look at that one, and it is now raining, so I'll wait until the rain stops and take a look at that one as well....Thanks for the insight. I'll let you know what I find.

[rwilliam99]

be very, very, careful in doing this:...either get a long screw driver or at hf&t you can buy the real device for 2 bucks....put the end of the screw driver on a safe place on the alternator or water pump, put the other end to your ear and take a listen...it takes a bit to get used to what sounds like what..but something in bad shape should be clear..it will be ratteling away......>>>> real tool.... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=41966

You know the funny thing? After all this work, the noise is gone. I'm pretty sure the noise was coming from the old carb. Now that it has a 4BBL on it, it doesn't squeal.

[Dragon]

My 750 Holley whistles at 32 mph in 4th on a slight rise and on flat if I keep it whistling it will slowly gain speed to 42 before it quits. The throttle plate whistles at less than 2 degrees of opening.

[rwilliam99]

Well, my son drove the truck all week and it is working good. The only issue is the wheel camber issue, but other than that, it appears to be fully functional. He really likes the electric choke! The old engine was supposed to have a manual choke, but someone removed it a long time ago. The electric choke make the truck drivable when it is cold.

I finally took a look at the bushing on the I-Beam (3B177), and it does appear to be damaged. I looked at both sides and one side looks fine (old, but fine), the other side is cracked and the I-Beam looks a little cocked. It doesn't appear that is too hard to replace. I'm guessing just take the weight off the tires, loosen the bolt to drop the IBeam and replace it. The parts are well rusted/dirty, but I'm pretty sure we can get them off fine. We will work on getting that replaced, and I'm thinking we should replace the other side as well. I never like to have mismatched suspension parts.

[Dragon]

I use a 4*4 as a jack extension and push the axle forward with just the shock removed so the radius arm pushes out of the bracket. Put the truck up so the wheel hangs down all the way.