71' F260 4X4 Dana 60 wheel bearing torque???

[martinarcher]

Hey guys. I'm nearing the end of a full rear brake rebuild. I got the drum/hubs back on, and am looking for torque specs on the two nuts that hold the hub on. They are 2 9/16" nuts (I just bought a socket for them). I think they are called the bearing adjuster nut (sets actual tension on the bearing), and the bearing locknut (goes on after the adjuster nut and lockwasher go on).

Thanks guys!

[averagef250]

wheel bearing nuts do not use a torque spec, they are tightened to set bearing preload. Tighten the inner nut as tight as you can get it by hand while turning the hub to ensure the bearing races are seated and any grease you used (if you used any) is pushed out of the rollers. Back the nut off a little and spin the hub, while spinning the hub tighten the inner nut until you feel a slight drag. You don't need much at all on used bearings, new bearings you want to set a little tighter because they will wear in a little. Put the lockwasher in and install the second nut. Use whatever you have to tighten the crap out of the outer nut, say 150+ lb/ft or an impact gun.

Might not be what the book says, but it's how I've always done them and never had an issue with bearings or nuts backing off.

[martinarcher]

I didn't know that. I thought there was a torque spec for the adjuster nut. I thought I remembered finding one for the front end when I replaced the bearings last summer. Maybe not?

I did pack the heck out of them with Mobil 1 synthetic grease. I assume your are supposed to even though they are lubed by the diff oil.

[averagef250]

I don't pack rears, just a skim coat of lubriplate.

[martinarcher]

I don't pack rears, just a skim coat of lubriplate.

I figured I was going a little overboard, but I was thinking since I wasn't sure what the norm is, more lubrication would better better than less just in case.

[Dragon]

wheel bearing nuts do not use a torque spec,

That might be how you do it. But. Somebody did that type adjustment to my dad's F150 and when he called me about the noise in the front end it was too late the bearings were barreled. I called the mechanic and told him the proper way. The next set were okay.

Yes they do get torqued by the service manual 1971 volume 1 11-14-03

Torque the adjusting nut 50-80 ft lbs while rotating the wheel. Then back them off by 3/8s of a turn.

Torque the locknut to 90-110 ft lbs. The wheel assembly must be free to rotate and with an end play of .001 to .010. The axle lock bolts get torqued to 40 to 50 ft lbs. Failure to do that will shear the axle retaining bolts.

You can pack them with bearing grease it must be compatible with your differential oil. So synthetic to Synthetic.

[martinarcher]

wheel bearing nuts do not use a torque spec,

That might be how you do it. But. Somebody did that type adjustment to my dad's F150 and when he called me about the noise in the front end it was too late the bearings were barreled. I called the mechanic and told him the proper way. The next set were okay.

Yes they do get torqued by the service manual 1971 volume 1 11-14-03

Torque the adjusting nut 50-80 ft lbs while rotating the wheel. Then back them off by 3/8s of a turn.

Torque the locknut to 90-110 ft lbs. The wheel assembly must be free to rotate and with an end play of .001 to .010. The axle lock bolts get torqued to 40 to 50 ft lbs. Failure to do that will shear the axle retaining bolts.

You can pack them with bearing grease it must be compatible with your differential oil. So synthetic to Synthetic.

Awesome - you da man. That sounds a lot like what I did up front and it worked great - time to bust out the torque wrench..... I will be using Mobil I synthetic on both the bearings and the diff lube so I should be good to go.

You wouldn't happen to know the torque spec for the diff cover bolt would you?

Thanks again!

[Dragon]

30-40 ft lbs I use sealant on all the threads most go through the case to the inside where they can weep oil down the threads.

[martinarcher]

30-40 ft lbs I use sealant on all the threads most go through the case to the inside where they can weep oil down the threads.

Cool - I was planning on using Permatex on the axle end bolts as well as the diff cover bolts.

Thanks again!

[averagef250]

That might be how you do it. But. Somebody did that type adjustment to my dad's F150 and when he called me about the noise in the front end it was too late the bearings were barreled. I called the mechanic and told him the proper way. The next set were okay.

Front axles use grease. Full float rears run in oil just like big trucks. There's absolutely no reason to fill the bearings with grease. The grease makes a mess, especially synthetic. If you fill the hubs with grease as oil fills the hubs in normal driving the grease will begin to work it's way up the axle tube. It actually collects there, hindering oil flow from the diff to the hubs. This is especially a big PITA if you have a diff failure after someone does this and you have to clean the axle housing. Grease makes it a real difficult job.

I am moreso a machinist/fabricator than a wrench turner though I've definitely done my share of both. The machinist side of me HATES grease. I've rebuilt a number of metalworking machines and when buying one used grease inside a gearbox or packed into bearings is a difinitive sign of doom. Grease holds metal chips, grit and dirt into the gear teeth and bearings. Oil allows it to float right out of harms way.

The number of front axle wheel bearing failures I've seen is twentyfold what I've seen for full float wheel bearing failures. Why is that? Grease. Why have all modern front axles switched to unit bearing hubs? Because those servicing tapered bearing/greased hubs cause many failures by not getting parts clean enough before reassembling the stuff.

I use a skim coat of Lubriplate on dry rear wheel bearings because it disappears right away into gear oil. It doesn't hang around like wheel bearing grease does.

You can follow the book if you want. I don't because when you do these things for a long time you develop a feel for what works and what doesn't. Have you guys ever worked on late model sterling axles? They are by far and away the finest built modern pickup axles and have anti-torque spindle nuts so you CANNOT screw up the wheel bearings by overtightening the nut. The Sterling nuts put finger tight preload on the bearings which is exactly what they're supposed to have.

Dana 60 cover bolts and axleshaft bolts do not need sealer on them, they are all blind holes that do not go into the housing.

[Dragon]

Dana 60 cover bolts and axleshaft bolts do not need sealer on them, they are all blind holes that do not go into the housing.

My Dana 60 has 4 bolts that go all the way through and it is not something I did. My Dana 70 does not have bolts that goes through.

Also we are not talking about the front axle. Ford put a certain type of lubricant in the bearings so they did not burn out before oil got out from the center to the bearings. That grease they used broke down when gear lube got there and mixed into the oil. Yes if you slap front bearing grease back there you will have a mess.

oh and P.S, It was always called Axle grease in the old days.

[martinarcher]

Dang - you guys have me worried. I packed the crap out of the rear bearings with Mobil I synthetic grease (same stuff i used up front - comes in a can - it's thick red stuff). I'm wondering if I should pull the back end apart and wipe the hubs out and just leave a little on the bearings for lube until the diff oil gets to the bearings. i was going for the more lube is better than less lube theory, but I can see where if it was meant to be lubed with oil, packing it with grease could be messy down the road. I could tell when I pulled them out they had some grease on them, but it wasn't half what I packed in there.

[Dragon]

Ouch take that grease out in the rear or you will not have happy bearings.

[sideoilerfe]

My Dana 60 has 4 bolts that go all the way through and it is not something I did.

Someone did! Mine are all blind holes as mentioned above.

[martinarcher]

Well guys I pulled the hubs back off and wiped as much grease as I could out of the inner part of the hub. I cleaned the outer bearings up and used assembly lubricant to lubricate them before putting everything back together. I didn't clean the grease out of the inner bearings since I would have to destroy my new seals. Should I pry them back out and clean up the inners too? The only place the grease is left is on the rollers of the inner bearing. I figure I will be OK now, just wanted to see what you guys thought.

Also, when I pulled the hubs off, the inner bearing seal lip was a little creased as if it folded over on itself as the hub was put back on. Is there a trick to getting the hub on without damaging the seal? I had the rear left seal leake before I started thos project and man was that a mess - i sure don;lt want to repeat that!