I recently got a 1968 F-250 and I'm pretty sure the rear is a Dana 60 full floater. Haven't crawled all the way under there to check for sure, but it looks like a 60. Anyway, it's got the 12-1/8x2 brakes on it and the brake drum slips over the outside of the hub and has a couple screws holding it onto the hub. Hopefully that's enough for you guys to know what hub I've got.
Anyway, I was tightening down the nuts that hold the axle shaft in and noticed that one of them kept turning, slowly pulling the stud out. My question to you guys is, how do I replace these studs? Are they pressed in or screwed in? If they're screwed in, would a helicoil or time-sert do the trick? Thanks!
Full floater axle studs - how to replace?
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Re: Full floater axle studs - how to replace?
i don't know for sure from experience or from a book. but my guess it that they are threaded into the housing. a helicoil may be the way to repair it.
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Re: Full floater axle studs - how to replace?
If you could pull off the drum without removing the axle for a brake job, then why did you pull the axle? If it was to re-pack bearings than I understand but just for a brake job there was no reason to pull the axle out.ScreaminZ wrote:I recently got a 1968 F-250 and I'm pretty sure the rear is a Dana 60 full floater. Haven't crawled all the way under there to check for sure, but it looks like a 60. Anyway, it's got the 12-1/8x2 brakes on it and the brake drum slips over the outside of the hub and has a couple screws holding it onto the hub. Hopefully that's enough for you guys to know what hub I've got.
Anyway, I was tightening down the nuts that hold the axle shaft in and noticed that one of them kept turning, slowly pulling the stud out.
Side oiler FE, see if you can catch me!!!
1970 F250 4x4 390/4spd
1968 F250 4X2 360/C6/No Rust!
1970 F250 4x4 390/4spd
1968 F250 4X2 360/C6/No Rust!
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Re: Full floater axle studs - how to replace?
Hub seal was leaking and got oil in the brakes. Hub has to come off to replace seal.sideoilerfe wrote:If you could pull off the drum without removing the axle for a brake job, then why did you pull the axle?
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Re: Full floater axle studs - how to replace?
You can helicoil it.
My memery is foggy as to whether I've pulled apart a pre-69 D60, but I know for a fact the 70-72 Ford 60's have the drum behind the hub. I don't know why the earlier drums would be different though. You may have a different axle swapped in. 69 and earlier Ford 60's used studs on the axle with taperlocks. 70 and up just uses bolts, no taperlocks. Dodge 60's and 70's used studs for a good many years.
My memery is foggy as to whether I've pulled apart a pre-69 D60, but I know for a fact the 70-72 Ford 60's have the drum behind the hub. I don't know why the earlier drums would be different though. You may have a different axle swapped in. 69 and earlier Ford 60's used studs on the axle with taperlocks. 70 and up just uses bolts, no taperlocks. Dodge 60's and 70's used studs for a good many years.
1970 F-250 4x4 original Willock swivel frame chassis '93 5.9 Cummins/Getrag/NP205/HP60/D70
- sideoilerfe
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Re: Full floater axle studs - how to replace?
The earlier ones were different. My 68 is the same way. It has 3 screws that hold the drum on and the drum slips over the hub to come off. My 68 and my old 65 were both like that. My 70, 72 and my old 70 has the drum behind the hub as stated.averagef250 wrote:You can helicoil it.
My memery is foggy as to whether I've pulled apart a pre-69 D60, but I know for a fact the 70-72 Ford 60's have the drum behind the hub. I don't know why the earlier drums would be different though. You may have a different axle swapped in.
Side oiler FE, see if you can catch me!!!
1970 F250 4x4 390/4spd
1968 F250 4X2 360/C6/No Rust!
1970 F250 4x4 390/4spd
1968 F250 4X2 360/C6/No Rust!
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Re: Full floater axle studs - how to replace?
You don't repack those bearings, they run in the gearlube. Of course you do prelube them if you have had it apart.sideoilerfe wrote:If you could pull off the drum without removing the axle for a brake job, then why did you pull the axle? If it was to re-pack bearings than I understand but just for a brake job there was no reason to pull the axle out.ScreaminZ wrote:I recently got a 1968 F-250 and I'm pretty sure the rear is a Dana 60 full floater. Haven't crawled all the way under there to check for sure, but it looks like a 60. Anyway, it's got the 12-1/8x2 brakes on it and the brake drum slips over the outside of the hub and has a couple screws holding it onto the hub. Hopefully that's enough for you guys to know what hub I've got.
Anyway, I was tightening down the nuts that hold the axle shaft in and noticed that one of them kept turning, slowly pulling the stud out.
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