fordman wrote:ok your saying drill the bolt out in a fancy way. usually when you get through the bolt the easy out is next. have you ever bro0ken off an easy out doing this. those arent fun drilling out.
Never broke one. I used to carry a drill bit in one air drill and an easy out in a reverse air drill and remove 100s of screws on major inspections. From little #6s to 3/8s. I have tap drilled a bolt that absolutely would not come out and then re-tapped by dental picking the first 2 threads clean so the tap would start in the hole correctly.
I was always frustrated with Fords and Rusted exhaust parts. I would get so mad I could not see straight. Then I started buying all the tools i used in the Navy quality tools mainly make a difference. And then the Rusted stuff stopped being a problem.
Old Fords Rule Was a Ford Service Tech
71 F250 with Shell Car 390 NP435 Dana 60 3.73s, PS, PB, 750 EC VS Holley Accel Points Eliminator.
98 Volvo S70 2.4T Auto 71 Service manuals Volumes 1,2,3 and 4 So ask away. My Gallery Spark test
WD 40 is not a rust buster it is a water displacer. It is too thick to flow deep into a rusty thread area.
It is great when the truck plows through water, then you lift the cap spray with WD 40 and drive away.
They sell some stuff locally for Swamp cooler repairs it is even better than PB Blaster but like I said local. Mostly in the areas where swamp coolers are used in the SouthWest. It has a partner in an oil for the Swamp Coolers. They both come in a small bottle with a long extendable stem.
Old Fords Rule Was a Ford Service Tech
71 F250 with Shell Car 390 NP435 Dana 60 3.73s, PS, PB, 750 EC VS Holley Accel Points Eliminator.
98 Volvo S70 2.4T Auto 71 Service manuals Volumes 1,2,3 and 4 So ask away. My Gallery Spark test
so far it has penetrated just fine and lubed the treads so I could break them. I only have one left on the bottom side that is proving to be a challenge just to get to.
Kane
1971 Ford F250 4x2, no engine.....what am I going to do?
Old Fords Rule Was a Ford Service Tech
71 F250 with Shell Car 390 NP435 Dana 60 3.73s, PS, PB, 750 EC VS Holley Accel Points Eliminator.
98 Volvo S70 2.4T Auto 71 Service manuals Volumes 1,2,3 and 4 So ask away. My Gallery Spark test
Driver' side? not on any Ford I know. Passenger side sometimes had a choke tube in the exhaust manifold.
Old Fords Rule Was a Ford Service Tech
71 F250 with Shell Car 390 NP435 Dana 60 3.73s, PS, PB, 750 EC VS Holley Accel Points Eliminator.
98 Volvo S70 2.4T Auto 71 Service manuals Volumes 1,2,3 and 4 So ask away. My Gallery Spark test
When I did that on my '68 CS...
we tried every suggested means to avoid breaking the bolts...
it was much easier to cut off the headers with a cut off wheel pull the engine...
and get the motor on a stand...
All 8 of the top bolts off in the block... all 8 bottom ones came out easy.
Then we used a grinder to grind them smooth with the head center punched them and drilled them out just smaller than stock and rethreaded the holes to stock size.
I used stock Mustang exhaust bolts with ramp lock washers.. and lots of antisieze...
i can't stress the anti sieze enough...
KaptnKAOS
Washington...The land where rust is like the family pet...Ya learn to live with it and clean up after its mess... KaptnKAOS
ares360 wrote: yeah, I had my neighbor look at it and he thinks it is the choke tube.
They mostly used the intake heat riser setup. On the passenger side. I think they have a right side manifold on the left side. Where is the exhaust tube connecting to?
Old Fords Rule Was a Ford Service Tech
71 F250 with Shell Car 390 NP435 Dana 60 3.73s, PS, PB, 750 EC VS Holley Accel Points Eliminator.
98 Volvo S70 2.4T Auto 71 Service manuals Volumes 1,2,3 and 4 So ask away. My Gallery Spark test
kaptnkaos wrote:When I did that on my '68 CS...
we tried every suggested means to avoid breaking the bolts...
it was much easier to cut off the headers with a cut off wheel pull the engine...
and get the motor on a stand...
All 8 of the top bolts off in the block... all 8 bottom ones came out easy.
Then we used a grinder to grind them smooth with the head center punched them and drilled them out just smaller than stock and rethreaded the holes to stock size.
I used stock Mustang exhaust bolts with ramp lock washers.. and lots of antisieze...
i can't stress the anti sieze enough...
KaptnKAOS
That's what I did, but I had the fender off so the engine stayed in and I borrowed a right angle drill. I did brake a drill bit doing one of them, that required burning it out with a torch. It was fun. Posted the story here a couple years ago.
Steve
1970 F350 DRW Factory 9' Platform/Stake, 360, T18.
Passed on to new care taker July, 2013
Dragon im going to try that drilling out the bolt before it breaks on my stubborn header bolts. You have posted lots of good info on broken bolts. Thanks,Brian.
68 f100 427 r code 4spd toploader
69 f350 390 4spd hauler bed
72 Ford Bronco 302 3spd
95 Ford Lightning
38 John Deere G
Assorted old Honda ATC,s
ok, so I found out today that drilling out old bolt is too hard for me. has anyone ever just put on the new exhaust gaskets without only 6 bolts on each side?
Kane
1971 Ford F250 4x2, no engine.....what am I going to do?
Old Fords Rule Was a Ford Service Tech
71 F250 with Shell Car 390 NP435 Dana 60 3.73s, PS, PB, 750 EC VS Holley Accel Points Eliminator.
98 Volvo S70 2.4T Auto 71 Service manuals Volumes 1,2,3 and 4 So ask away. My Gallery Spark test
