Question on with parts to use

[360FE]

Hello I just left the ford-trucks.com forum because I could not get any useful information with out some one jumping in and berating me because he thinks his poo doesn't stink.

Here's my plans and I would like some suggestions on witch parts should be used to achieve them.

My truck will be helping me move from the left coast to the right coast. With some fleshing up I don't doubt that it will make the run with little to no problems. I would like to get as much power as I can get for towing and hauling. This will definitely not be a race truck. It is a 1968 F100 LWB W/side tool box 360FE W/3 speed manual moved to the floor LSD rear (I think Dana 30) I would have to double check). At one point the 2bbl carb pissed me off once last time and I converted it to the Holey 2D 2bbl TBI and haven't looked back. Picked up a small amount of power and increased mileage and cold early morning driving. Even though the TBI is a 2bbl unit the kit is designed for use on a 4bbl intake so I had to use an extra adapter and a little custom fab work. I also ditched the engine fan in favor of a high power 16" electric fan. This increased mileage a bit and quitted the engine down a lot. The previous owner ran the original fan direct with no fan clutch. Bellow is a list of what I would like to replace or do. witch parts would be best with my maine goal of towing and hauling power in mind. Converting to a 390FE is out of the question, no money or time for a full rebuild.

1.) Heads need to be rebuilt. Should I use stock heads or are there better heads that would be around the same price range?
2.) 4bbl intake manifold. Should I just save a few bucks and grab the S code intake from the bone yard.
3.) Timing chain needs to be replaced. Are there any manufactures I should stay a way from?
4.) Since the heads are coming off I was thinking of upgrading the cam and lifters. I know didly squat about cam grinds. Should I stick with stock or is there a better choice for me?
5.) Previous owner rigged the exhaust himself and did a crappy job. It is currently a true dual setup with no H or X pipe, and every connection is welded but only about 3/4 of the way around. So there are plenty of exhaust leaks. Should I put on headers, and what size pipes should I use. I would like them to dump ware they are at now, just behind the rear tires. I would like to keep the same type of muffler. Not sure of the manufacture, but instead of being a big oval shaped muff. it is round and not much wider then the pipes. I don't care if it is loud, I kind of like loud. I run a Flowmaster 80 series on my '92 Camaro and love the sound.

Thanks for reading this far!

Will

[BobbyFord]

Hello I just left the ford-trucks.com forum because I could not get any useful information with out some one jumping in and berating me because he thinks his poo doesn't stink.

Here's my plans and I would like some suggestions on witch parts should be used to achieve them.

My truck will be helping me move from the left coast to the right coast. With some fleshing up I don't doubt that it will make the run with little to no problems. I would like to get as much power as I can get for towing and hauling. This will definitely not be a race truck. It is a 1968 F100 LWB W/side tool box 360FE W/3 speed manual moved to the floor LSD rear (I think Dana 30) I would have to double check). At one point the 2bbl carb pissed me off once last time and I converted it to the Holey 2D 2bbl TBI and haven't looked back. Picked up a small amount of power and increased mileage and cold early morning driving. Even though the TBI is a 2bbl unit the kit is designed for use on a 4bbl intake so I had to use an extra adapter and a little custom fab work. I also ditched the engine fan in favor of a high power 16" electric fan. This increased mileage a bit and quitted the engine down a lot. The previous owner ran the original fan direct with no fan clutch. Bellow is a list of what I would like to replace or do. witch parts would be best with my maine goal of towing and hauling power in mind. Converting to a 390FE is out of the question, no money or time for a full rebuild.

1.) Heads need to be rebuilt. Should I use stock heads or are there better heads that would be around the same price range?
2.) 4bbl intake manifold. Should I just save a few bucks and grab the S code intake from the bone yard.
3.) Timing chain needs to be replaced. Are there any manufactures I should stay a way from?
4.) Since the heads are coming off I was thinking of upgrading the cam and lifters. I know didly squat about cam grinds. Should I stick with stock or is there a better choice for me?
5.) Previous owner rigged the exhaust himself and did a crappy job. It is currently a true dual setup with no H or X pipe, and every connection is welded but only about 3/4 of the way around. So there are plenty of exhaust leaks. Should I put on headers, and what size pipes should I use. I would like them to dump ware they are at now, just behind the rear tires. I would like to keep the same type of muffler. Not sure of the manufacture, but instead of being a big oval shaped muff. it is round and not much wider then the pipes. I don't care if it is loud, I kind of like loud. I run a Flowmaster 80 series on my '92 Camaro and love the sound.

Thanks for reading this far!

Will

Welcome Will, I think you'll like it much better over here than on FTE.
There will be several opinions on your questions, you'll have to decide which is best for you.
Here's my opinion...
1.) Get your heads rebuilt with hardened seats. Aftermarket heads won't do you much good on a stock 360.
2.) Stock 4bbl. intake is fine, but you may want to go with an Edelbrock performer just to get rid of the heavy cast iron stocker.
3.) Any good U.S. made double roller timing chain is what I prefer.
4.) If you do want to replace the cam and lifters, for your application I would stick to a grind close to stock. I have a mild (close to stock) Crane cam in one of my trucks and it works well. Some guys don't like Crane cams, I do. Comp makes a good cam, also.
5.) I wouldn't go with headers for your application, because of the mild build. IMO there won't be any significant gain. Also headers are starter cookers.
When you have your heads rebuilt, take your stock exhaust manifolds to the machine shop and have them milled flat. Make sure they mill the exhaust side of your heads flat, too. You wil be able to use the stock manifolds without any exhaust gaskets between the manifold and the head.
I would also get a complete exhaust system with an "H" pipe (I don't believe an "X" pipe is necessary for your application). I like Magnaflow mufflers but you may not because they are a little quieter than Flowmasters.
Just my opinion, hope you find it useful.

[bumpside]

Will, welcome to the site from NJ. You will find good people here willing to help if they can.

I think the reply above answers your questions. The only thing I might add is a new oil pump depending on engine miles.



Terry
bumpside

[papabug71]

Welcome!

What he said sounds good to me for your particular application.

[fordman]

i would think if you were going to buy a 4bbl intake you would just get an aluminum one. why hassle with a cast iron one?

[DGrant09]

Welcome to De Site!

Great bunch here with tons of good info!

When is your trip?? With the work your planning, I bet she makes it!





Dan

[DuckRyder]

I'm with BobbyFord with the following to add:

Crane 343901 (Kit 343902) with matching springs and retainers. (No Comp Cam)

On the exhaust, the manifolds are terribly in efficent, however for your goals they will suffice with a proper exhaust system in place. If you do get headers spend the money for good ones so they are not a hassle down the road.

[fitzwell]

1.) Heads need to be rebuilt. Should I use stock heads or are there better heads that would be around the same price range?
2.) 4bbl intake manifold. Should I just save a few bucks and grab the S code intake from the bone yard.
3.) Timing chain needs to be replaced. Are there any manufactures I should stay a way from?
4.) Since the heads are coming off I was thinking of upgrading the cam and lifters. I know didly squat about cam grinds. Should I stick with stock or is there a better choice for me?
5.) Previous owner rigged the exhaust himself and did a crappy job. It is currently a true dual setup with no H or X pipe, and every connection is welded but only about 3/4 of the way around. So there are plenty of exhaust leaks. Should I put on headers, and what size pipes should I use. I would like them to dump ware they are at now, just behind the rear tires. I would like to keep the same type of muffler. Not sure of the manufacture, but instead of being a big oval shaped muff. it is round and not much wider then the pipes. I don't care if it is loud, I kind of like loud. I run a Flowmaster 80 series on my '92 Camaro and love the sound.

Thanks for reading this far!

Will

Howdy. I think you'll find this place a whole lot more "used friendly"

1 . Rebuild the stock heads, hardened seats, new springs if ya can afford 'em at the time
2. If you feel the need for a 4bbl intake, get an aluminum one.Don't think it'll help the performance all that much, but it DOES take about 80 lbs off the front. Personally, i'd grab the "S" code for swap meet stuff, but that's just me
3. Stock chain & gears. Napa, Oreilly, or a local shop that sells a name brand kit. I've used cloyes over the years & never had a problem. pour some oil over the chain before you button it up. And while you're in that area of the motor, i'd look at the oil pump as mentioned. 'Bout another hour-2 to R&R the pan & do a new pump & screen. Cheap insurance.
4. Comp..262 or so. You don't need anything really lopey, but a smallish cam will help bottom end out a great deal, and should pick up some MPG on the highway as well. One thing, i'm not familiar with the Holley TBI, but if it runs off a map sensor, your cam choices are limited.
5. On the exhaust, and i might catch some flack here, i'd go 2 1/4 to the mufflers, 2" tailpipes. If you have room, an "H" pipe will take some of the drone out of the motor, and help a bit on the bottom end. Mufflers are personal preferance, if you want the glasspacks, great.

Have fun & be safe on your trip. Hope all goes well.

[sideoilerfe]

I'm with BobbyFord with the following to add:

Crane 343901 (Kit 343902) with matching springs and retainers. (No Comp Cam)

On the exhaust, the manifolds are terribly in efficent, however for your goals they will suffice with a proper exhaust system in place. If you do get headers spend the money for good ones so they are not a hassle down the road.

For exhaust, with stock manifolds, you could get the oem replacement system from Walker...

http://www.walkerexhaust.com/catalog/ve ... pescrn.asp

I'd just go with a 2.5 muffler and tailpipe instead of the 2" stock. It works pretty good. If you insist on duals, than a good 2.25" duals will work fine for your application.

Good luck and welcome to Fordification.

[averagef250]

If I were in your shoes, I'd buy a new cloyes chain, crane 901 cam, lifters and correct springs, have the heads redone with hard seats, redrill your stock 2V intake while it's off to directly mount the TBI injection, add a duraspark distributor and install decent headers with dual 2.25 or 2.5" pipes through turbo mufflers.

IMHO, those parts are the wisest money spent. The 4V intake will gain you nothing with 2V TBI. Stay away from comp cams for an FE. Check your rocker arms and shafts out while you have them apart, make sure you install restrictors in the oil passages in the heads and leave the oil pump alone if the engine has more than 5PSI at hot idle. Run a 195 thermostat for best mileage.

[bumpside]

If I were in your shoes, I'd buy a new cloyes chain, crane 901 cam, lifters and correct springs, have the heads redone with hard seats, redrill your stock 2V intake while it's off to directly mount the TBI injection, add a duraspark distributor and install decent headers with dual 2.25 or 2.5" pipes through turbo mufflers.

IMHO, those parts are the wisest money spent. The 4V intake will gain you nothing with 2V TBI. Stay away from comp cams for an FE. Check your rocker arms and shafts out while you have them apart, make sure you install restrictors in the oil passages in the heads and leave the oil pump alone if the engine has more than 5PSI at hot idle. Run a 195 thermostat for best mileage.

Explaination please on two points I don't understand.

Why is a Comp cam not reccomended for use in FE motors .
Why not replace the oil pump if there is high mileage on the motor

I have never owned an FE motor. I would like to know what makes it different from other Ford motors in selecting a cam mfg and chainging the oil pump

[averagef250]

I've owned and built a lot of truck FE's. Comp makes good cams for most apps, but they missed the boat big time on truck FE applications. FE's have certain characteristics that can really shine in a truck app. like brute low end torque and luggability. Comp doesn't make a cam that comes close to working with FE's exhaust flow characteristics for stock iron heads and low compression truck engines. The Crane 901 cam is idle to 4500 RPM power. Might not seam that impressive, but it makes for quite a surprise in a mild truck 360/390 with headers.

FE's are their own animal, there's no other engine that behaves quite like they do. They sound a bit different than other V8's and make power differently. Take advantage of thier characteristics and you'll have an engine that will walk all over an engine with 100 more cubic inches in a truck.

Intake choice is really a preferrance thing. I see lots of recommendations for bigger intakes and carbs than I preffer, but I'm one that prefers off-idle and mid range power to top end in a truck. I've found the performer RPM and similiar intakes lose more low end power than I'm willing to sacrifice and they lack an exhaust crossover which sucks for a daily driver. If you like to wind the nuts out of your engine go for something bigger. If you drive conservatively and tow a lot go for something closer to stock. The truck 2V intakes can still make some respectable power.

Also, stay far, far away from fel-pro gaskets. Victor Reinz makes stuff that works. Thier head and intake gaskets seal.

[bumpside]

Averagef250,

Thanks for the reply. I have this mid 60s mentality that only thinks HP, and rpm to get it. In other words car motors. I have taken the same approach with the two 302s I have built for my truck. Never thinking of it as a working truck. I can see why you would do things differently when you use it more in the rpm range it was designed for. Peak torque in the lower end of the rpm range, and HP around 4000 rpm .I believe dependability is the goal. Is that close Thanks for the quick FE lesson

bumpside

[360FE]

Yeah all of my power is down low. With this truck I prefer it that way. I only see 4000RPM hauling a heavy load up a steep hill on the highway. It's has a lot of pull down low.

I'm defiantly going to spring for the harden seats. I don't think the current ones are harden and due to crappy CA gas blends are now burnt, leading me to need to rebuild them.

When I have the intake off I may get a good look at it to see if it can be machined to take the TBI directly. Holey has a couple of TBI setups. The commander 950 (laptop tuning needed), the 2D and 4D (stand alone twist knob tuning) , and the old analog versions of the "D" versions. The only one that has a map sensor is the Commander 950. I 'm running the 2D version. While not as good on the MPG I did not want to be held back with the tuning issues that things like a map sensor can bring, and it has served me well over the last 2 years. If the stock intake wont work I will go with the stock 4v due to the cost advantage. the aftermarket intakes are lighter, but are costly compared to the a quick run to my local pick your part. I see them every time I go there.

All the information has been very helpfully in leading me in a proper direction to research exactly witch parts I want to get. As far as the exhaust goes any thing will be an improvement, but I'm starting to think the headers may not do much and can be a money saver by skipping them.

The truck spent must of it's life on a farm before I got a hold of it. So even though the mileage is starting to get up there it hasn't been ridden hard and put a way wet. I mainly just want to tighten things up a bit and get it running nice strong before the move. The exact date is still up in the air, but will happen most likely in late spring to summer time. I have been recovering from back surgery so the work can't start until early Feb. I go back to work in early Jan.

One question though. Some one mentioned putting oil restrictors. I'm not sure what you are referring to. I would think the I would want oil to flow freely. Could you explain a little further?

Thanks for all of the input and advice, and not just telling me to turn it in to a 390. I'm actually happy with the power of the 360.

Will

[averagef250]

To add a little bit, I just helped a friend go through the 360 in his 73 F-100 4x4. The block was cracked when he bought it so we found a good block for $20 on craigslist, tanked everything, polished the crank, berry honed the block, put it back together with victor gaskets, a summit roller chain, crane 901 cam, reused the old lifters, installed the correct springs, blocked off the EGR, added a duraspark, rebuilt an older 2150 2V, stuck some $25 craigslist headers on it and dual 2.25" pipes. We reused all the bearings except the cam bearings and used the old rings. It runs very strong. It's got to be in the 250HP range and will easily keep up with your average truck 460 or 454. All said and done he's got about $400 in the motor including beer.