Engine squeak/squeal

[rwilliam99]

After doing some more searching here, I found the following thread which sounds similar. They describe the noise as "whistling", which I could agree with, and they also say it is relatively common on the straight 6:

http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 00#p217936

Anyone have any thoughts or opinions on this?

[fordman]

so you think the carb is whistling? it could be i suppose. this seems to be something to think about. shielding that noise. with a better air cleaner or element

nm5k wrote:Do all Autolite 1101 single barrel carbs whistle?

Well yes, if you have no air cleaner or use
one of the little chrome jobs that doesn't really
shield the noise.. My carter 1 bbl whistles like
crazy if I run it with no air cleaner.
But put the air cleaner on, and it's gone.
But I'm using a full size air cleaner that is
enclosed.
If it's whistling with a good air cleaner on it,
then I'd be looking for vac leaks, or the
throttle shafts etc as mentioned.
Just wanted to mention, if the air cleaner
is partially open, IE: like the little chrome
ones, etc, they *will* whistle, and not have
anything wrong with the carb. If you had a
actual leak big enough to whistle, I would think
the idle, etc would be rough.
MK

[rwilliam99]

Well, we didn't make any progress on the noise, however it all may be a moot point: My son got in an accident yesterday, and the damage was pretty bad. The good news is that he is fine. I was actually amazed at how little damage the truck took after seeing the damage the truck DID. He ran off the road and followed the ditch for a while, taking out a few mailboxes and a fire hydrant on the way. The last thing was a group of mailboxes on 3 horizontal 4x4's. When he hit those 4x4's they went in the engine compartment and broke the carb and ruined the radiator. It didn't go all the way into the cab, thank goodness. I guess it is a testament to the toughness of an almost 40 year old hunk of steel!

If we end up fixing it, we will see if a new carburetor will fix the whistle.....

[DuckRyder]

Glad your son is O.K., trucks and mailboxes are easier to fix than folks are.

Hope the truck is actually repairable.

[Dragon]

If we end up fixing it, we will see if a new carburetor will fix the whistle.....

Sorry to hear about that. The Ford trucks are tough or they would not still be here. Glad your son made it.

On your problem about the carb whistle. My 2V 69 and my 4V 71 does that all the time, Open air cleaners. The throttle plates are almost not open when that noise comes from the carb. I try and drive just at that point for economy because the engine is at high vacuum.

[rwilliam99]

I'm very sure it is repairable, it is just a matter of how much it will cost. If we can find a good junkyard with a good hood, front clip and fender (and maybe bumper) for a good price, I think we can do it. Even if it doesn't look great, it is in good mechanical shape.

Rob

[Dragon]

If you don't find it on e-bay or here try www.lmctruck.com or www.npdlink.com
http://www.usbody.com/ for Fiberglass
http://www.martiauto.com/
http://www.greensalescompany.com/
http://www.autokrafters.com/

have fun

[rwilliam99]

Thanks for the links, however for the body parts, those are too much $$$ if we are going to fix it. I'm hoping we can find some good parts at a local junkyard....

Anyone know of a good F100 junkyard in the Portland, Oregon area?

[SteveC]

you can use a hood from i think all the way up to a f600. they are the same and would just have to change the emblems on the side... if that helps widen your search any.

[Dragon]

You can use the F600 Radiator Support with minor modifications.

[rwilliam99]

Do you know what other years F100's parts would fit? Is is just 67-69 that has this style? Or would later years work too? The radiator support will most definitely need to be replaced, as well as potentially at least one of the inner fender wells (probably both), and the right fender. The left fender is bent a bit, but we could keep that one.

Thanks for the help....

[Dragon]

Except for Grills 67-72 are the same for all body parts. I mean you can take a grill from a 71 but you won't have turn signals unless you move them over to. You can take many under the skin body parts from a 73-79. You can take a whole cab even and have the later look. Fenders from the later would bolt on but have a dent instead of a bump. They never moved any of the important bolt holes and only added some. It just depends what you want it to look like when done. The Grill if not original has a different header so that is another minor concern.

Here it is broken down. http://fordification.com/interchange_body.htm

[rwilliam99]

Well, we are SLOWLY gathering parts to fix my son's truck. We got a new/used front clip from a local guy, including a nice bumper and radiator. We are also going to replace the intake and carb with the offy dual plane setup and a holley 390. In addition, we will be installing a header.

One question: We were intending to use a Y pipe after the header. The header collecters are 2.5", and the question arose whether to get a 2.5" -> 3" y pipe or just 2.5 -> 2.5 y pipe. My intuition tells me the 2.5-> 3" would be better since it would reduce the back pressure.

Anyone got suggestions?

Thanks for all your help. I'm anxious to see how his truck runs after all the work....

[Dragon]

2.5 to 2.5. The pipes need to be the same size as when the size goes up the high velocity scavenging will drop to Low velocity flow.

[rwilliam99]

Well, another update - We finally got all the new sheetmetal on, and it lines up and looks pretty good. Got all the engine parts in, and lastly, put the new carb on. Went to try and turn it over, and got nothing. Found out that we have NO spark at all.

Electrical work is one of my weak areas. I've done some searching here on how to diagnose no spark problems, but haven't been able to find anything really good.

Does anyone have a good resource on how to track down no spark issues?

Thanks