I thought this article would be good to have here since a lot of people are intimidated by full floating axles the first time they deal with them.
http://www.boyandjeep.com/tech-articles ... rear-drums
Enjoy,
Sequoia
PS: Keith, you have my permission to use this information however you feel appropriate.
Article: Replacing F250 & F350 rear brakes and bearings
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- GSequoia
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Article: Replacing F250 & F350 rear brakes and bearings
www.advlifestyle.com
1971 Camper Special (390 / C6 / D60)
1970 F250 High Boy (NP435 / Dana 24 / No engine, rusted to hell and back body, project to combine with above.)
1966 Rustang (289 / C4 Project stalled for ages)
1989 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D44 / 35's)
1996 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D35)
1971 Camper Special (390 / C6 / D60)
1970 F250 High Boy (NP435 / Dana 24 / No engine, rusted to hell and back body, project to combine with above.)
1966 Rustang (289 / C4 Project stalled for ages)
1989 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D44 / 35's)
1996 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D35)
- Thunderfoot
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Re: Article: Replacing F250 & F350 rear brakes and bearings
That is an EXCELLENT right up!



Shayne
I'm not "Brand Loyal" Ford-Chevy-Dodge-Toyota I have them all, one even cross mixed...
If it Looks good and Works good then it's ok by me. Everything has its issues from time to time...
69 SWB (project) & 69 Highboy (driver/project)
http://s197.photobucket.com/albums/aa29 ... d%20truck/
http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?cat=10399
I'm not "Brand Loyal" Ford-Chevy-Dodge-Toyota I have them all, one even cross mixed...
If it Looks good and Works good then it's ok by me. Everything has its issues from time to time...
69 SWB (project) & 69 Highboy (driver/project)
http://s197.photobucket.com/albums/aa29 ... d%20truck/
http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?cat=10399
- GSequoia
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Re: Article: Replacing F250 & F350 rear brakes and bearings
Okay I edited it a bit (thought maybe I should suggest putting the wheel cylinder back on
) and put the brake adjustment portion in it's own article (since it's good for any vehicle.
That article is here: http://www.boyandjeep.com/tech-articles ... rum-brakes

That article is here: http://www.boyandjeep.com/tech-articles ... rum-brakes
www.advlifestyle.com
1971 Camper Special (390 / C6 / D60)
1970 F250 High Boy (NP435 / Dana 24 / No engine, rusted to hell and back body, project to combine with above.)
1966 Rustang (289 / C4 Project stalled for ages)
1989 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D44 / 35's)
1996 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D35)
1971 Camper Special (390 / C6 / D60)
1970 F250 High Boy (NP435 / Dana 24 / No engine, rusted to hell and back body, project to combine with above.)
1966 Rustang (289 / C4 Project stalled for ages)
1989 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D44 / 35's)
1996 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D35)
- GSequoia
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Re: Article: Replacing F250 & F350 rear brakes and bearings
Okay another change, I added the procedure to adjust the parking brake (in a separate page and linked to the original article): http://www.boyandjeep.com/tech-articles ... king-brake
www.advlifestyle.com
1971 Camper Special (390 / C6 / D60)
1970 F250 High Boy (NP435 / Dana 24 / No engine, rusted to hell and back body, project to combine with above.)
1966 Rustang (289 / C4 Project stalled for ages)
1989 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D44 / 35's)
1996 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D35)
1971 Camper Special (390 / C6 / D60)
1970 F250 High Boy (NP435 / Dana 24 / No engine, rusted to hell and back body, project to combine with above.)
1966 Rustang (289 / C4 Project stalled for ages)
1989 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D44 / 35's)
1996 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D35)
- ok68crewcab
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Re: Article: Replacing F250 & F350 rear brakes and bearings
Great article.
This part sounds simple and easy:
"Remove the eight axle shaft bolts with the 5/8″ socket and a ratchet, then slide the axle shaft out and set it in a place where it will not get overly dirty."
But it took about 15 big hammer blows and a lot of work to get the axel to break loose from the hub when I did mine.

This part sounds simple and easy:
"Remove the eight axle shaft bolts with the 5/8″ socket and a ratchet, then slide the axle shaft out and set it in a place where it will not get overly dirty."
But it took about 15 big hammer blows and a lot of work to get the axel to break loose from the hub when I did mine.
2 Blessed 2 Be Stressed
- GSequoia
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Re: Article: Replacing F250 & F350 rear brakes and bearings
Were the splines on the axle buggered up or had rust fused the hat of the axle shaft to the hub?ok68crewcab wrote:Great article.![]()
This part sounds simple and easy:
"Remove the eight axle shaft bolts with the 5/8″ socket and a ratchet, then slide the axle shaft out and set it in a place where it will not get overly dirty."
But it took about 15 big hammer blows and a lot of work to get the axel to break loose from the hub when I did mine.
I ask because I live in California so I don't see severe rust issues so don't know of all the complications in our trucks.
www.advlifestyle.com
1971 Camper Special (390 / C6 / D60)
1970 F250 High Boy (NP435 / Dana 24 / No engine, rusted to hell and back body, project to combine with above.)
1966 Rustang (289 / C4 Project stalled for ages)
1989 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D44 / 35's)
1996 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D35)
1971 Camper Special (390 / C6 / D60)
1970 F250 High Boy (NP435 / Dana 24 / No engine, rusted to hell and back body, project to combine with above.)
1966 Rustang (289 / C4 Project stalled for ages)
1989 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D44 / 35's)
1996 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D35)
- ok68crewcab
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- Location: Edmond, Oklahoma
Re: Article: Replacing F250 & F350 rear brakes and bearings
Rust welded.GSequoia wrote:Were the splines on the axle buggered up or had rust fused the hat of the axle shaft to the hub?ok68crewcab wrote:Great article.![]()
This part sounds simple and easy:
"Remove the eight axle shaft bolts with the 5/8″ socket and a ratchet, then slide the axle shaft out and set it in a place where it will not get overly dirty."
But it took about 15 big hammer blows and a lot of work to get the axel to break loose from the hub when I did mine.
I ask because I live in California so I don't see severe rust issues so don't know of all the complications in our trucks.
2 Blessed 2 Be Stressed
- GSequoia
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- Posts: 347
- Joined: Fri May 18, 2007 1:46 am
- Location: Torrance, CA
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Re: Article: Replacing F250 & F350 rear brakes and bearings
Good to know.ok68crewcab wrote:Rust welded.
California really spoils vehicle owners, my truck has lived here it's entire life. (My grandfather bought it in late '71 when it was a year old)
www.advlifestyle.com
1971 Camper Special (390 / C6 / D60)
1970 F250 High Boy (NP435 / Dana 24 / No engine, rusted to hell and back body, project to combine with above.)
1966 Rustang (289 / C4 Project stalled for ages)
1989 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D44 / 35's)
1996 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D35)
1971 Camper Special (390 / C6 / D60)
1970 F250 High Boy (NP435 / Dana 24 / No engine, rusted to hell and back body, project to combine with above.)
1966 Rustang (289 / C4 Project stalled for ages)
1989 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D44 / 35's)
1996 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D35)
- flyboy2610
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Re: Article: Replacing F250 & F350 rear brakes and bearings
I bookmarked that article. Thanks!
Hey, Keith, you might consider adding a link to it somewhere on the tech page.
Hey, Keith, you might consider adding a link to it somewhere on the tech page.
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."
Red Green
If you're going to live like there's no hell...............
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Red Green
If you're going to live like there's no hell...............
you'd better be right.
http://theworldasiseeit-flyboy2610.blog ... ee-it.html