I'm beginning to remove my c6 and this will be my 'project post' where all updates are posted & questions are asked!
Some Facts
1. Truck sat for ~17 years [with previous owner, I'D never do that!]
2. Linkage is hooked up [and seems to shift easily/normally/correctly]
3. Fluid was red and did not smell bad (when I changed it). Pan actually had a yellow plastic rod in it, used during factory installation. This was my 1st clue that the transmission had never been worked on nor the transmission fluid changed.
4. The truck only has 64k original miles on it.
Some Questions to Start!
1. There are two rods that connect to the shift linkage. One of them is the "shift" linkage (runs from the cab/drivers seat) straight through to the trans. The other runs up to the carb. What is the purpose/function of this rod [the one that goes to the carb]?
2. How high do I need to lift my truck in order to get this c6 out? In terms of cinder blocks (laid horizontally), how high? 2? 3? 4??.
3. Do you all recommend the use of a specialized jack for the actual lowering and removal of the trans? What does this thing weight? It's pretty large! 4. When I use the 'release' lever on my parking brake, my parking brake pedal does not disengage. Anyone know a quick fix for this problem? And could this be my problem & not the transmission at all? I did have the driveshaft disengaged and was able to push/roll her with the help of a friend, which is why I'm leaning towards transmission...
Thanks in advance all, look forward to this project!
Bonnie_72_F100 wrote:I'm beginning to remove my c6 and this will be my 'project post' where all updates are posted & questions are asked!
Some Facts
1. Truck sat for ~17 years [with previous owner, I'D never do that!]
2. Linkage is hooked up [and seems to shift easily/normally/correctly]
3. Fluid was red and did not smell bad (when I changed it). Pan actually had a yellow plastic rod in it, used during factory installation. This was my 1st clue that the transmission had never been worked on nor the transmission fluid changed.
4. The truck only has 64k original miles on it.
Some Questions to Start!
1. There are two rods that connect to the shift linkage. One of them is the "shift" linkage (runs from the cab/drivers seat) straight through to the trans. The other runs up to the carb. What is the purpose/function of this rod [the one that goes to the carb]?
2. How high do I need to lift my truck in order to get this c6 out? In terms of cinder blocks (laid horizontally), how high? 2? 3? 4??.
Depends how skinny you are. Seriously, I put 4" blocks under my front tires. Had plenty of room then.
3. Do you all recommend the use of a specialized jack for the actual lowering and removal of the trans? What does this thing weight? It's pretty large!
Yes! The C6 is a tank! Rent a tranny jack or buy one at Harbor Freight for about $40. For safety's sake it's worth it!
4. When I use the 'release' lever on my parking brake, my parking brake pedal does not disengage. Anyone know a quick fix for this problem? And could this be my problem & not the transmission at all? I did have the driveshaft disengaged and was able to push/roll her with the help of a friend, which is why I'm leaning towards transmission...
Mike's right, check to see if it's actually coming out of park. Probably linkage isn't working correctly or out of adjustment.
Thanks in advance all, look forward to this project!
dont use cynder blocks to hold the truck up. they can and will break very easily. you can use a plain floor jack to let the trans down and put it back in. once you lower the jack all the way down slide the trans off of the jack and drag the trans out from under the truck. you wont have to jack the truck up very far to do this. use some wooden blocking if you need some sort of blocking. you can build a quick crib block from 2x4's if you need blocking. cut 6 pieces of 2x4 the same length. lay three pieces side by side. then take the other three pieces and lay them on top of the first three pieces the opisite way so that the top and bottom layers criss cross each other. you can build several set of these if you need to. jack stands are probably the best way to support your truck while working under it though.
the parkign brake pedal has a return spring on the back side of it. yours is probably broken or missing. the spring is what pops the pedal back up. some assemblies have a replaceable spring others do not. depending on the year of your assembly. mine is also a 68 and mine has the non replaceable spring on it. so i need a whole new pedal assembly to make mine work again. i think the trucks with the replaceable spring are dentsides. i could be wrong and have the two assemblies mixed up though. check for that spring .
Okay, I'm ready for removing I think. I've disengaged the driveshaft & removed all lines running to the trans. There are 4 1/2" bolts holding the plate on to the trans under the engine. 2 5/8" bolts, one on each side of the trans facing towards the grille. 2 1/2" bolts on the passengers side around the (cylinder thing?). Also, two bolts on the top-side.
Did I miss any? Also, is it necessary to remove BOTH braces under the trans? I can remove the rear one easy enough but the front one looks like it'd be a P.I.T.A. Let me know what you think!
Alright... I'll start working on it but here's my question: When I put it back on do I need to hook up the top four (2 on each side) of the bracket that are the P.I.T.A. ones or just the bottoms ones that are easier to get to.
I wouldn't leave any of them out. That crossmember is there to keep your frame square, it's a high stress area considering it's where your radius arms mount.
My second opinion is the same as my first, it's a PITA and it has to come off.
yes they all have to go back in. the crossmember will mess up your alignment on your truck if its not put back in. there was a guy on the forums last year that was having that very problem until he got one and put it back in. and that helped straighten up his alignment.
Hey guys! Sorry for the lack of updates. This "season" has been put on hold due to lack of FUNDS! That's right. Without some $ to buy the right tools to get that brace off and/or the money to drop this entire truck @ at trans shop... I've been unable to progress!
Did want to jump on the board though before Christmas & wish ya'll a happy/healthy holiday! Guilty confession: I'm hoping to get some crappy [yet valuable] gifts from the family this year that I can return to get enough $ to fix my transmission! (Dreams do come true, right!?)
Well, it's summertime (almost) now so I'm ending my MBA courses for the semester and starting to work on the truck again. Found a guy within a hours drive that says he has a c6 off a truck that had a 360 (just like mine). He's asking $50 for it.
Attached is a picture of what he's got. Does this bolt-pattern match the one I've got now & need?
Thanks all,
Cooke
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all FE's should have the same bolt pattern, so you should be good to go.
have you pulled the transmission off yet? those things weigh 203lbs dry, so be ready for it when you unbolt the thing.
look on craigslist for some jackstands. hell, my current jackstands were free, as were my ramps. amazing what people will throw or give away. and like the others said, never use cinder blocks to support your truck. i had a brand new one disintegrate while i was under my truck one time. talk about scary...
1976 Ford F-150 Supercab 4x2 w/390FE engine C6 - 76,000 miles 1995 Taurus SHO 3.0L Yamaha V6 MTX w/Quaife LSD - 75,000 miles 2002 Dodge Neon R/T 2.0L I4 MTX - 91,000 miles 1993 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9L Cummins 6x4 Flatbed MTX- 100,000 miles *SOLD*
Seriously, I put 4" blocks under my front tires. Had plenty of room then.
Let me know what you think!
And you know
