Replacing the fuel lines from the tank to the engine.

[robroy]

Hi! Recently I pulled the fuel lines that go from the in cab tank to the engine (one from the tank to the tank selector valve on the floor, and another from the valve to the engine compartment).

Here are a few pics that show the condition of the lines:






The exterior of the lines shows some surface rust in patches here and there. I have no way of knowing what's inside, but considering that I went to the bother of re-sealing the in-cab tank, I'd like to replace these lines so they'll be certainly clean.

NPD doesn't seem to have pre-bent lines available for this exact application, and I'm afraid that due to the floor tank selector valve, the lines for my truck will be quite different from those offered by NPD.

Here are the applications they list that might fit:

1. F100-250 4x2 67-69 F-9369A-11S $84.95
2. F100-250 4x2 70 F-9369A-12S $84.95
3. F100 4x2 71-72 F-9369A-19S $84.95
4. F250 4x4 71 F-9369A-47S $98.95

Does anybody have experience with any of these pre-bent lines from NPD?

Has anybody replaced their fuel lines on an F250 like mine, and do you have any experiences to share?

Should I just take my tubes in to a custom fab shop to have them replaced?

Thanks very much for the great advice!
-Robroy

[DuckRyder]

I replaced mine with NPD's stainless lines for my application.

NPD's lines are made by inline tube, so you might contact them, if they don't offer a set they can probably duplicate yours...

http://www.inlinetube.com/

[fordman]

or if you cant find new lines you could just get some stock stainless line and bend your own lines. it wouldn't be all that hard i wouldn't think.

[jdricha5]

I just blew the old lines out with a compressor and some cleaner.

[cdherman]

"just get some stainless line and make your own"

Be Careful!!! Stainless is a lot harder than regular steel and its less maleable too, so makeing a nice double fare is a bugger. Your orignal lines made it a long time, probably under less than optimal conditions. If you are making lines for a show truck and you plan to polish the lines etc., then by all means, go the stainless route. If you just want durable and decent appearance, just get regular steel and make the lines that way. For good looks, just satin polish with coarse steel wool and clear laquer finish works, or keep them bare like Henry did.

I have had a lot of trouble with getting stainless lines (in fact, lines made my Inlinetube) to seal up right. YMMV

[Jake11]

You can make up your lines real easy from the line stock they have at the parts house. You need a tubing cutter, a bender,
and a double flairing tool. The bill will probably come out less than buying pre-made, and you got the tools too.If your into
doing it that way, you can make up brake lines, cooler lines ect. Jake

[DGrant09]

You can make up your lines real easy from the line stock they have at the parts house. You need a tubing cutter, a bender,
and a double flairing tool. The bill will probably come out less than buying pre-made, and you got the tools too.If your into
doing it that way, you can make up brake lines, cooler lines ect. Jake

Ditto!! They are great to have around the house.. We can always use a new tool or two!!

[robroy]

Hi Robert, Fordman, Jdricha5, Cdherman, Jake, and DGrant09,

Thanks for the replies!

I actually happen to have a double flaring tool and some nice tubing benders already, but I find it difficult to make attractive tubing, especially on such a long piece with so many funny bends in it. Furthermore, the ends on this piece of tubing don't appear to be double flares; they seem to be humps that keep the hose from coming off the end. Kind of like the end of the tubing has a hump in it. And I'm not sure if my flaring tool can make that shape.

My motivation to make the tubing on my own would be avoiding the hassle of shipping my tubes away for models for new tubes to be made, but I'm not sure which option would truly present the greater obstacle.

Thanks again for the great advice!
-Robroy

[robroy]

I called Inline Tube about making custom tubes, and they said that it takes about a week and costs about the same as if they already had the pattern for the tubes (very little extra for making the custom parts). It seems like this will save some time and get a better product for me so I'll go this way.

I also asked about sealing problems with the stainless parts, and heard that they use a special stainless blend that's easier to seal than what's often used for tubing. I also heard that for the best seal, the nut should be tightened down partially, loosened, and tightened down four or five times before tightening it down for the final time. This allows the metal surfaces to mash together properly.

This tip is new to me!

I heard that most folks who have seal problems with stainless tubes are tightening them down a single time only (not working the nut back and forth first).

Any thoughts on this info?

Thanks!
-Robroy

[RandyBee1]

I bought the bulk roll of SS tubing from InLine and bent and flared my own gas lines. I didn't have any sealing issues and I tightened the nut down one time. I think the sealing problem probably relates to poor flaring technique. I also did my brake lines in SS they also don't leak and they are under a lot more pressure than a gas line. Randy B.

[robroy]

So I mailed Inline Tube the tubes and they made them for me out of stainless. They did a beautiful job and it didn't take long at all! The total bill was $187 if I remember correctly. That was for the front brake lines, the fuel line running from the engine to the tank selector valve, and the line running from the valve to the gas tank.

The bends they did came out perfectly even though I needed to cut one of the lines before sending it to them for shipping economy. And they did a great job of putting the coil wire shielding on the front brake lines--they look fantastic.

Here's the part of the line running from the engine to the valve; it sure stands out against the original frame finish!



I'll post pics of the rest of the lines when I take 'em.

-Robroy

[fordman]

are you going to paint that frame or something?

[robroy]

Hey Fordman good question.

I sandblasted and re-finished the frame from the cab forward, since I had the front clip, engine, and suspension all removed. But I decided to draw the line there and not go "all out" with the whole frame. I didn't want to work under the cab and I didn't want to remove it. Initially I was hoping this would be a two month project, but I'm sure you are all familiar with how that works.

With each layer that's peeled back a whole slew of things are revealed that make you think, "Gosh I should really cherry this part out before burying it again."

Just to preserve it I do plan on wire brushing it and putting some Rust Bullet on with a paint brush though, but that will be next summer.

I'm not patient enough to do a restoration all at once--I want my toy now.

-Robroy