Out of 74 3/4 ton. Also available 4 speed standard tranny and rear diff. Motor has about 5000Km since rebuilt. Run great, doesn't burn or leak oil. Motor is complete.
Would this work in my 68 1/2 ton? What should I be asking to find out exactly what he has here?
My truck has a inline 6 and a 4 on the floor. The rearend is also shot (pretty sure as you can spin the driveshaft with both back tire firmly on the ground. ) So if this would fit, it might be a good deal for me.
Get all the brackets and stuff. It should work out ok. The 8 bellhousing is different than the 6.
See if ya can hear it run before ya put any coin down.
Jake11 wrote:Get all the brackets and stuff. It should work out ok. The 8 bellhousing is different than the 6.
See if ya can hear it run before ya put any coin down.
Well its already yanked... SO probally not going to hear it run..
The guy wants $700 bucks for the complete drivtrain, plus he has another '73 that runs and drives (390 auto) that he would throw in...
The guy said he needs to clean up his yard, but I dunno seems almost too good to be true.
The rear end in the Dentsides wont bolt in as the frames are wider in the back so the spring perches would need to be moved. The rear end is also wider but this makes the front and rear wheel track width the same. some info on that here http://www.fordification.com/chassis_bu ... ntside.htm But as Jake said the motor and trans will work just fine.
The price with getting the other complete truck sounds good to about right, as the market has really dropped on these old trucks.
Depending on your part of the country, around here I have seen LOTS of good trucks with low mileage rebuilt engines in them (nice clean trucks) that won’t fetch $900. their parts are worth more then the whole truck...
Shayne
I'm not "Brand Loyal" Ford-Chevy-Dodge-Toyota I have them all, one even cross mixed...
If it Looks good and Works good then it's ok by me. Everything has its issues from time to time...
Heres a pic of the rebuilt 5000km ago 390... Looks a little too dirty to be rebuilt hey?
He says about that "it sat for some time and the valve covers were leaking and the oil and dust built up the gaskets have been redone so it no longer leaks.. "
As long as your truck is also a LWB, and you get the engine, transmission and driveshaft, it'll bolt right up. To go from an I6 to a V8 you'll need the V8 gas pedal assembly (the I6 version is different). You'll also need the larger V8 radiator...which means you'll also either need the V8 radiator support to cut out the center hole in your existing radiator support to mount the V8 radiator.
The rearend will also be a straight bolt-up...except that it would mean you'd have 8-lug wheels on the back and 5-lug wheels on the front. Also, putting that Dana 60 from the F250 into your F100 would also mean you'll need to shorten the rear driveshaft. I'd definitely suggest against doing that. Just find yourself a good 9" pumpkin replacement in the junkyards.
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-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special My '67 restoration video -> Posting and you!<-a MUST watch for all!!
:):):)
