Low oil pressure

[SteveC]

wouldnt the main thrust baring be the one at the back of the engine? ... and its not something you would maybe notice with the crank and pistions still in the engine more than likely.

[steveheer]

Thrust bearings are on # 3 mains on Fords and thrust material is what it looks like to me as well.

[fireguywtc]

Well I guess thats just one more thing I can add wrong with this motor that I have discovered since I pulled it out. I will take apart the rest of the bottom end to expose the mains. I was hoping I wouldn't have to do that but no big deal. So is this main thrust bearing that has come apart the most likely culprit for my low oil pressure? Do all FE's have this problem or is it mostly the 352?

[BobbyFord]

If that material is the side surfaces as opposed as the journal surface, there may be other problems. If it is the thrust surfaces, what is pushing the crank forward or rearward? You won't really know for sure til you get it apart. Right now it's all just speculation.

[DuckRyder]

Bobby is right, if that is from the thrust surfaces (sides) something is wrong somewhere, depending on which face is gone could help narrow it down.

I guess people beating the harmonic balancer on with a hammer is the most common cause.

[fireguywtc]

I took everything out of the bottom end today. Everything checks out normal. I am stumped where this material came from. All of the bearings are in good condition including the main and rod bearings. I don't know what else to look for. I have taken some pics and will put them in my gallery when I have time tomorrow. The crank had no foward or rear movement and everything was tight. I don't know how the engine was put together last since I had rebuilt by a napa machine shop in Oregon back in 99 and that was the last time I had it out. Of course they had it all back together when it was done. I am going to take apart everything tomorrow until I have no more moving parts left in the block. It may have been material from when the truck was rebuilt and never got the old stuff out of the pan. The motor only has 33k since it was rebuilt. I'll know more tomrrow. Bill

[BobbyFord]

Peek in with a light and see if you can detect any damaged cam bearings. May have spun a cam bearing.

[fireguywtc]

I forgot to mention Bobby that I had already taken the cam out and it all looks good up there too. I am stumped at this point. I have posted pics in my gallery of the main caps for the crank with the bearings as well as the rod bearings and cam bearings. I can't get the crank out yet until I take it back off the engine stand because I left the flywheel on and the big gasket is in the way. But, I can look in there and the bearings on the top part of the crank look good as well. I did take several pics of the crank with all the caps off and such, but they came out fuzzy.

Thanks for the help guys. I am only a shadetree mechanic but im learing lots

[DuckRyder]

The pictures aren't super clear and I can't tell anything at all about the cam bearings.

I will say those do not really look like ~35,000 mile bearings. I would be tempted to plastigauge the rods and mains.

[Jake11]

Either the pumps totally shot or theres a LARGE internal leak.When ya put it together, before the pan or valve covers
or manifolds go on, Put the filter on. Put the oil pump pickup in a bucket of oil. Take a speed handle/5/16" deep
socket that fits and crank the pump up. See if oil squirts out somplace. Then ya'll know. Good luck, Jake

[BobbyFord]

Also, lay a straight edge across the pick up screen and measure the distance from the straight edge to the pan gasket surface on the block, then lay the straight edge across the gasket surface on the oil pan and measure the depth of the pan at the pick up area. Just to make sure you've got pick up-to-pan clearance when assembled.

[Jake11]

Heres and another to look at. Are any of the con rod big ends "bluish" in color? If so replace um. I seen the oil holes
in the crank to the rods from the mains get plugged up and it tears the bearings up and burns the rods. Those big
copper pieces look like part of a bearing that came apart. Since you got it apart, ck the oil holes in the crank to see
if their all open. Easy way is turn it so the hole in the main is lookin at you and put a air blower to the hole.
Jake

[fireguywtc]

If that material is the side surfaces as opposed as the journal surface, there may be other problems. If it is the thrust surfaces, what is pushing the crank forward or rearward? You won't really know for sure til you get it apart. Right now it's all just speculation.

I finally figured it out today, and Bobby you where right about the movement for the foward dirction (toward the timing chain). I don't know why but I was looking at my bottom end today, just staring and wondering what could be wrong when I finally noticed what was actually wrong. The crank had come foward about 1/4 to 1/2 inch and the reason I thought there wasn't any movement was beacuse my dumb self had bolted the block to the engine stand with the flywheel still on. That put pressure on the flywheel and made the crank tight in the foward position.
This was the main thrust bearing working it's way into the crank.

Here is where the crank was digging into the block.

Does this mean my block is pretty much toast? Overall very frustrating but pretty amazing to me the motor seem to be running fine like this other then the low oil pressure.
One more for a top view.

[BobbyFord]

If it was a lack of oil it simply would not have lasted as long as it has. The lifters would have started screaming first. Also, bearing surfaces on the crank would be blued and/or burnt. The only bearing surface that is toasted is the thrust side of the thrust bearing. Is it the rear side of the bearing (more than likely) or the front side. Which ever side of the thrust is gone will obviously give you a clue as to where to look. Maybe converter hub was not going all the way into the end of the crank pushing the crank forward. Did you change the converter when the engine was out?

[Jake11]

Lookee at the pic's of the bearing shells. All the babbit's GONE. That ain't caused by a converter jammed in.
If ya jam a converter, the first thing that goes is the pump in the tranny. The gear splits in half. Then it tears
the front pump all to hell. Makes a loud screeching noise too. I have seen this. Semi-proffesional wrenches
R&Ring tranny's I built. Kinda annoying to see. After that happened, more than once, I did my own R&R's.
It only takes 15min. to slam a RWD unless it's a 4x4. Then another hour for all the nifty stuff they hang on.

Ok, the lifters. If the mains & rods are banging real good, you might not notice a lot of lifter noise. This thing
must have made a lot of noises before it finally went POOF. Jake