Changing a C6 isn't difficult (assuming the truck came with a C6).
However, the C6 is heavy. I would not advise doing it by yourself, you at least need help lowering the old one, and raising the new one into place.
Be advised if it is a C6 behind an FE you must remove the suspension crossmember between the radius rods as well as the transmission crossmember. (the same is probably true for a LIMA motor.) I've been told a small block C6 will come out past the crossmember.
Make sure the torque converter is fully seated as well, it is very easy to damage the pump.
wanna install c6 on my own
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- DuckRyder
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re: wanna install c6 on my own
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
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re: wanna install c6 on my own
take the very heavy caution serious, as you have no leverage laying on your back and a C-6 w/torque converter in it is a HEAVY lift no matter how strong you are not to mention when you have zero leverage under a truck. You can hobble along some with a floor jack and maybe a scrap peice of 2x10 on top of it to kinda stabilize the C-6, but if it gets cocked and starts to come off, watch out, you can't stop it. I lost a turbo 350 that way under a buick once and was fortunate it didn't hit me on the way out. Especially watch seating the torque converter, I have installed maybe 4-5 automatics in the last 25 years or so, mostly alone with muscle and floor jacks and so forth and I managed to improperly seat my torque converter and had to pull back out and have front pump replacement and torque converter. You do that once and it'll eat up that 3-400 charge for install. If you are careful about the one you pull in the junkyard you can pull it with the torque converter intact and you can take a bolt a box end wrench from the bellhousing to hold the torque converter in long enough to make it home to keep it from sliding out. Main thing, don't force torque converter, make sure it fully seats and make sure it rotates freely. good luck, Banjo.
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First off, go look and see if the cross member between the radius arms is riveted or bolted. Ford riveted them for a while, then bolted them, and then later in the mid 70's they redesigned the darn thing to allow the tranny to be removed without removing the crossmember.
65-66 is riveted for sure and MUST be removed to swap a tranny. I am unsure about 69 though. If its rivets, well that might be worth about a $100 right there. You have a torch or all day to spend with a grinder?
65-66 is riveted for sure and MUST be removed to swap a tranny. I am unsure about 69 though. If its rivets, well that might be worth about a $100 right there. You have a torch or all day to spend with a grinder?
65 f-100 SWB, 240 I6, T-18, now swapped to C4 with difficulty. Yeah, I know. Its a 67-72 site. But my frame and entire drive train are just like yours!!!!
- ToughOldFord
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re: wanna install c6 on my own
I'm a big advocate of promoting the do it your selfer, however it's not always a good idea to start with a hard job. If you want to attempt this then for safety's sake and frustration's sake bring a friend along that is familiar with major automotive repair. Pick N Pull can save you a lot of money, but it's not worth it at the cost of bodily harm.
Like the guys above mentioned, the C6 is a very heavy transmission. Rent a transmission jack or you can buy an inexpensive one at Harbor Freight. It'll make the job easier and safer.
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Re: wanna install c6 on my own
When do you know that the converter is seated properly?
Tim
1972 F350 flatbed drw c6/390
1967 F600 project truck
1972 F350 flatbed drw c6/390
1967 F600 project truck
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Re: wanna install c6 on my own
push the torque converter onto the shaft and it will slide down, then twist it and keep pushing and it will have a satisfying "clank". but i dont know if you can check if its still seated properly when you shove the tranny up to the engine.OldRedFord wrote:When do you know that the converter is seated properly?
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Re: wanna install c6 on my own
There should actually be three discernible clicks when installing the torque converter before it's fully seated. You'll definitely have to wiggle it back and forth to find the 'sweet spot's to get it to pop in...and once it's fully seated, you should be able to put a straight-edge across the bellhousing mounting flange and have about 1/4" of space between the straight-edge and the mounting lugs of the torque converter.
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'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
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-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
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Re: wanna install c6 on my own
Before bolting the converter to the flexplate. Spin the converter and make sure it turns freely if it does should be fully engaged.push the torque converter onto the shaft and it will slide down, then twist it and keep pushing and it will have a satisfying "clank". but i dont know if you can check if its still seated properly when you shove the tranny up to the engine.
1969 Ford F250 Custom Cab 360/C6 - currently under de-construction