points

[westernkansas]

could someone walk me through the process of inspecting, cleaning, replacing, and maintaining points? Also I am trying to diagnosis whats wrong with my 72 -390/c6 with 2 brl motorcraft carb. all last week to start the truck I would have to hold open the butterfly and crank till it starts, then it would spit and sputter with gas pedal pressed to floor. seems as if there was a slight miss during this time. after a few minutes the engine seems to run fine and rest of day it would start right up everytime. this weekend I started to get both carb flare up back fire and tail pipe back fire, and on monday the thing would not start at all just cranks with two tail backfires and one huge fireball out the carb, question is where do i start to find the problem, it does not smell as if flooding is occurring but does seem like it is not getting enough power in the ignition system to crank the engine because it will spin over but slowly. the starter was replaced about three weeks ago along with the solenoid and positive cable from battery to solenoid and cable from solenoid to starter, and new negative battery connector. this is my primary vehicle and am driving my brother toyota, would like to find out the problem in hopes to help kid brother move this weekend.

[Joshpow]

Get rid of them and buy a points replacement kit. I got a petronics Ignitor and Flamethrower coil on my 72. That's the best investment yet.

[westernkansas]

would like to go with the pertronix ignitor 2 that i read about on here but that will have to wait a few months $$$$$

[rubiranch]

If you are going to replace them you will need a dwell meter, remote starter button, a flat blade screw driver and a 5/16 wrench.

1. Remove all 8 spark plugs.
2. remove old points and condenser.
3. Clean breaker plates and distributor cam. Spray a little carb cleaner on a rag and wipe them off removing all old oil and grease.
4. Lube dist cam and rubbing block of points with dist cam lube.
5. Install new points and condenser.
6. Attach dwell meter as per manufactures recommendations.
7. Using a starter button crank the engine and use a screw driver inserted into the slot in the points and slowly twist the screw driver and watching the dwell at the same time. Set the dwell to 28 degrees.
note: the reason for removing the spark plugs is so that the engine cranks over at a higher RPM making it easier to set the dwell and without over heating the starter motor.
8. Put a few drops of engine oil on the wick in the center of the dist shaft, that provide lubrication for the mechanical advance underneath the breaker plates.
9. Install new dist rotor and cap. Gap and install new spark plugs.
10. Start the engine and set the ignition timing.

I hope this helps.

[QC]

You might need more than points. I'm not sure bad points would make it backfire like that. It kind of sounds like your timing chain might have jumped.

[FORDification]

A backfire is almost always caused by bad timing. I'd get that engine on a timing light and get it set before going further. However, replacing the points with a Pertonix setup is definitely the way to go.

[rubiranch]

Now that you know how to replace your poiints here's how to check your timing chain.

The most accurate way to check timing chain backlash is to use a breaker bar and a 15/16 socket on the harmonic balancer bolt.

Remove the distributor cap and slowly rotate the crankshaft so that the rotor points at #1 (on the dist cap) and align the timing mark at TDC at the timing pointer and the degrees marked on the harmonic balancer itself. If the rotor does not point at the #1 plug wire position on the dist cap and the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is pointed at TDC you most likely have a timing chai problem.

Then slowly rotate the engine the opposite direction closely watching the distributor rotor. When the rotor begins to move stop and note at what degree the timing pointer is at.

I would say that the chain is not "real" bad with up to 15 degrees backlash and maybe even a little more, 12 is probably normal.

A new stock replacement timing chain can have up to 8 degrees backlash after only a few thousand miles.

If there is zero backlash then the gears and chain are severely worn and the chain is most likely riding on top of the teeth of one of the two gears, most likely the cam gear.

Keep us posted.

[westernkansas]

I was out looking at the "hungry elephant" (trucks name, this morning and I didn't see any marks on the balancer, I saw the metal pointer deal but no lines, makes me worry that the chain might have broke or something but I will go home for lunch at 6 and try turning it with the breakover which direction do I turn I am assuming turn the motor over to the right as if I am tightening up the bolt. but then again doesn't the distributor rotate to the left so should I be turning the engine to the left?

[rubiranch]

Take the cap off and watch the rotor, turn the engine over either direction yo want.

[westernkansas]

did not get a chance to take lunch today so i will try in the morning, did borrow a timing light though. on the back of the light there i s a knob to adjust the degree you want the light to flash do i leave it set on zero and what should i look for as in the setting on the engine itself for correct timing? I know to loosen the dizzy but direction to turn i have no idea

[rubiranch]

You might need to clean off the dampener so you can see the timing marks and set the light to 10
(BTC if the knob turns both directions from TDC/0) and when it is flashing align the pointer at the TC/0 mark.

The engine should be idling with the vacuum hose disconnected from the vacuum advance.


Sorry for the crumby picture but you can see the TC (top center) with the 0 under it. Then to the right
is 10, 20, and 30 degrees before TDC. Note there is a 10 to the left of the TC, that is 10 degrees after
top dead center and you do not want it set there.

Loosen the dist and turn it slowly in either direction until the the pointer is aligned with the 0.

When the marks line up if you turn the knob on the timing light back to zero then the pointer should be
pointing to the 10 that is in-between the TC/0 and the 20.

I hope this helps.

[westernkansas]

it sure does, all the comments made so far helps a lot. was talking to a coworker today that is also a carb guy on the side, he said if I end up replacing the chain that sometimes it is common on these old fords that some groove on the harmonic balancer will wear off and if it had done this he said they sell sleeves that you put onto the shaft then slip the ballancer back on. has anyone come across this before. I put stock in what this guy says for he also drives an old ford a 75 is his daily driver and he has had other late 60 and 70 ford trucks.

[rubiranch]

I believe they are called Speedy Sleeves.

If you can feel any kind of a groove with your fingernail where the front main seal rides I would install one.

I would think Napa would be a good source for one.

[Joshpow]

I have heard of the groove wearing. I've also heard of the balancer wearing enough thata the timing marks aren't right by a couple degrees. Anyone experience this before?

[bobbyinpd]

Get rid of them and buy a points replacement kit. I got a petronics Ignitor and Flamethrower coil on my 72. That's the best investment yet.

ya that!