Step by step engine removal

[FTrucknewbie]

Hey all,
I recently saw and fell in love with a 1970 F100 with a 302 Windsor.
My inexperience in cars in general has meant i have bought a body which is way to far gone for my capabilities.

Sooo....I have now bought a restored 1968 rolling shell which is all set to go and all i need to do is pull the motor out of the old one and into the new.
This is my first ever project and will be buying parts and tools i need as i go.($$$I KNOW$$$).

My question is...Where will i find the best step by step information to remove the motor, clean up and drop in the 68.

I am expecting to hit a whole lot of stumbling blocks and can use all the help i can get.

In anticipation,
Ross

[smclaren]

Step 1 ... turn off the engine !

Seriously mate, you may want to buy a good workshop manual if you are flying solo. There are too many steps to describe for what you want so a manual will help and its right there as you are working.

Go on-line and chase down a aftermarket workshop manual. Something like this ... http://www.amazon.com/Pick-Ups-1965-86- ... 0801976626

You will struggle to find one that has any focus on Australian delievered units though, so it may cover other F-Series and non Australian delieveries. Bumpsides just wern't that popular in Oz, but dentsides were.
And of course, if you have specific questions on any of the restoration, post them up here because ... .....

Yeah

Steve

[smclaren]

By the way ... lets talk about what's left on the 1970 shell that you may wanna sell ! I sent you a PM.

[Wes]

Hey welcome to the Board Ross.

I have 1 tip for ya, After you get the engine out of the rust bucket, keep the truck around till you are sure there is nothing else you need from it. It's all just nuts and bolts , take your time, study things out you'll do fine.
SMclaren is right a book would be handy. This one http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Small-Blo ... 291&sr=1-1
might show how to remove and install, the big block one does. It will tell just about everythng you need to know about small block fords.

[FTrucknewbie]

I dont wanna turn the Engine off!!!

Thanks for that Steve.Ill have an option here in Bendigo for a manual now but that will now be second option.

Got your pm and ill keep u posted as i go cause i will be getting rid of bits...and wrecking lots...

Cheers

[td]

FTnewbie,

when you do get in a tough spot log on and we'll all help you all we can!!

[FTrucknewbie]

Thanks for the responses and i feel now, as though i have something to fall back on, in the shape of the forum when things are getting complicated.

Looking into mentioned books and chasing up a manual.

Looks like i hit the right Forum!

[robroy]

Good morning FTrucknewbie,

I'm also a relatively inexperienced mechanic, having worked on cars off and on for about ten years. I've been fortunate enough to have the advice of my father Hugh (an expert), and here are some key points I've learned:

1. Buy only decent tools, if you can help it. Examples of decent tools include Sears Craftsman (the ones that are Made in USA), Snapon, and probably many others that I'm not experienced with. Avoid tools sold in most auto parts stores that are made in China. The good tools can be two to four times the price but they won't fail on you when you're in a tight spot.

2. When you remove bolts that hold two things together, after separating the two things, put the bolts back in the threads they were originally screwed in to. Leave the bolts there (in one of the parts)--don't try to keep them elsewhere (like a plastic bin or a coffee can or something). This is the best way of keeping track of which bolt goes where.

3. Never get in a hurry or work in a way that causes any damage to your hands. I got quite a few bloody knuckles--and figured they came with the territory--before learning that there's always a way of working safely. It often involves using a different tool or approaching the task from a different physical angle.

4. Wear gloves as you work--avoid working with your bare hands. Some guys seem to like the idea of having lots of grime under their finger nails but it's really unnecessary. And some things (like gas), you don't want to get on your hands! I use the thin, blue nitrile gloves like these ones:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

5. Wear eye protection whenever you're working under the car. Rust and dirt is always falling down and has a special ability to get right in your eyes. It took me a surprisingly long time to figure this out.

6. Use your digital camera to take lots of pictures of each stage of disassembly. If you don't have one, buy one--this technique will really save you.

More experienced folks on this forum will probably have far better advice, but those key points come to mind.

-Robroy

[robroy]

Good morning!

Sean, great recommendation to get a manual! They're awesome. Getting one that covers so many years is good in a way since it forces the manual to be kind of general, which is useful for a beginner.

FTrucknewbie, one other very important point that I thought of since posting is how to safely lift your truck in the air.

Once you've removed one or more of the wheels, before you ever put any part of your body under the truck, it's absolutely critical to have at least two things supporting the weight of the truck, and to have something keeping the truck from rolling back and forth.

For example, if you're going to climb under a portion of the frame that's suspended by a jack stand, you should also have a redundant floor jack all set up in case the stand fails. And you should jam wooden blocks or wedges up against both the front and back of one of the remaining tires that's still on the ground (this will keep the truck from rolling off your stands).

Here's a photo of how I've lifted up the front end of my truck; notice that I've used solid wood blocks under both sides of the frame and also have several jack stands in place. The rear wheels are kept from rolling by wooden blocks jammed up against them.



Once you think your truck is secure, before you climb under it, open the driver's side door, grab the door frame with both hands, and heave on the truck in every direction as hard as you can. Try to push the truck off the supports! The truck should not wobble or shift around at all; it should feel even more solid than it normally does when it's resting on all four tires.

This point can't be stressed enough; lots of people have been crushed to death by cars.

-Robroy

[zakt]

anything you disconnect, LABEL IT. I am doing my 95' 460 for my 72' F350 and am using the blue masking tape and marking on it some I do just numbers 1 to 1 (one side I took off, and one to where it was) been there a few times where did that go??? Also alot of digital pictures...

95 motor -getting ready to pull

complete harness with ECM (working on gutting out the interior harness now) will get an ohm meter and start cleaning up the harness then to combine it with the 72s or just replace the 72s??

[Dragon]

1. Remove the radiator!
2. Remove the battery leads and battery.
3. Take fan blades off.
4. Remove alternator and Power steering pump (if equipped)
5. See fuel pump. Line going back to tank will pour fuel out. Remove fender bolt on top edge of fender . Undo the tank side hose and slip the bolt into the hose end. tighten the clamp.
6. Remove air cleaner. Stuff rag in carb.
7. Remove throttle linkage at fire wall end.
8. Now you can see all the wiring, remove and tag each end that is attached to the engine. Take a string and tie the wiring harness up and back to the back end of the driver's hood hinge.
9. Get a friend and remove the hood only with a friend.
10. Need truck details.

Automatic or manual? Tranny moving or staying. What did the 68 have in it?

You need every socket from 3/8 to 15/16ths. Same with wrenchs. A torque wrench that will got to 160 (if you are moving tranny and flywheel or . A Breaker bar 1/2 drive, 1/2 to 3/8 drive converter, 3in to 12in extensions, large straight slot and or breaker bar with a pin end to help align things. A wobble socket will help.

More later.

[FTrucknewbie]

Thanks guys,
Will definatley be marking everything otherwise i just know ill end up with a bench covered in useless bits.

It currently has a manual tranny but that is not coming out as the shell has an auto tranny in it.

The last engine sitting in the 68 was a 351.

Cheers,
Ross

[oldschoolrods]

Heres my method of marking stuff: For what its worth i use it on a daily basis at work.

Go to the hardware store and get yourself a big pack of the multi colored zip ties.

Then say you have to remove a hose. Put a unique color on the hose and the other on the fitting it lands to. Then to help aid my memory I write down in a notebook ie (heater core hose left fitting blue zip tie) I also sometimes write down which way i was looking at the part to determine left and right ie was i looking at it from the front or behind. If you run out of unique colors I just double or triple them up if necessary.

For electrical stuff if its relatively clean or if i can clean it relatively easy sometimes I use wire markers. like these

They work great if you have a few terminals in a row, like the alternator.

Masking tape works too but if the parts are dirty sometimes it doesn't stick.

Digital camera is great too, For my 69 teardown I have it completely photo documented in addition to the above method.

Hope this helps.

Good luck and have fun

[FTrucknewbie]

Certainly does help oldschoolrods.
I like the idea of the ties.
The added benefit i can see with that is no residue left behind from the tape.
Ties and plenty of photoes it is.
Thanks.

[westernkansas]

robroy use of jackstands is great i will start doing it that way with the planks of wood, any saftey suggestions when using ramps? I already block the wheels, but more support could ease the mind