I just put in a new (remanufatured) starter on my 390 about 6 months ago. Now the truck is almost impossible to start, it makes a grinding whirring noise and then doesn't do anything. My first thought was the battery, which turned out to be good. My second problem area was the alternator which had melted the positive battery terminal post, so it was replaced, along with the voltage regulator. I figured that it was some sort of voltage/grounding problem, but the truck still wouldn't start. I jumped the truck with my dad's toyota and it started . The problem is deffinately the starter, but getting the starter out is almost impossible due to the headers.
My options are to conver the truck back to stock exaust style; get a new set of headers that fit the truck and don't trap the @$#%ing starter and block the transmission bolts; or fight with the @#$%ing headers and put in a new starter. It's kinda a question between time or $'s. So what do you all think?
Bad starter + Headers
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- sideoilerfe
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re: Bad starter + Headers
These are your best bet if you want to retain headers.
http://www.sandersonheaders.com/index.p ... 1_24_40_44
I don't prefer headers because they are more prone to leaks and don't last as long. Then again, the log manifolds don't flow that well either. But I thing as long as you're not turning 5000 RPMs all the time it'll probably be fine. I'll never put those long headers on my truck again.
http://www.sandersonheaders.com/index.p ... 1_24_40_44
I don't prefer headers because they are more prone to leaks and don't last as long. Then again, the log manifolds don't flow that well either. But I thing as long as you're not turning 5000 RPMs all the time it'll probably be fine. I'll never put those long headers on my truck again.
Side oiler FE, see if you can catch me!!!
1970 F250 4x4 390/4spd
1968 F250 4X2 360/C6/No Rust!
1970 F250 4x4 390/4spd
1968 F250 4X2 360/C6/No Rust!
- binder56jd
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re: Bad starter + Headers
the headers may be frying your starter--look for old thread by cj's67
another top line mfg
http://www.stans-headers.com/ford_headers.htm
ps
iirc cj's67 ultimately ended up with a mini starter with heat shield--
another top line mfg
http://www.stans-headers.com/ford_headers.htm
ps
iirc cj's67 ultimately ended up with a mini starter with heat shield--
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- seattle67
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re: Bad starter + Headers
You said it started fine when you jumped it? Maybe your battery connection is bad. Where did you connect the jumper cables when you jumped it? If you put the jumpers on the battery clamps, right at the battery, and it started fine, then I would check the connections at your battery. But it's good to check, clean and tighten all the connections, from the battery to the starter.
Dan
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- green70
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re: Bad starter + Headers
could also be bad cables or solenoid,i went with the sanderson block huggers and they work great,lots of room around the starter,plus they made me some with both bolt paters so i have 16 bolts on each side.....
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re: Bad starter + Headers
Good tips above. On an FE application, do it once & do it right. Buy a reman motorcraft starter. None of this vatozone 39.99 crap. Make a new cable from the solenoid to the starter, at least 2ga. Check the ground connection as well. Might be time to add a ground strap to the rear (bellhousing) to the frame as well. Clean the mounting points where the starater mates to the trans.
Had hedman hedders on the ex's 68. While it was a tight fit, if the initial starter install is done as above, you shouldn't have any problems
and, as always...
Had hedman hedders on the ex's 68. While it was a tight fit, if the initial starter install is done as above, you shouldn't have any problems
and, as always...
As a metter of fact, i AM trying to keep up with the Jones'
Driving like Parnelli, Drinkin' like George
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Driving like Parnelli, Drinkin' like George
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