Rebuilding the rear end
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Rebuilding the rear end
I pulled the whole axle out this weekend and started the long task of stripping it for paint and so I can crack it open without getiing a ton of dirt inside.
Ok, here is what I know, its the stock 9 inch, 3.50 ratio, lotta miles on it, dont know exactly how many tho. The vent tube was ripped off at the nipple, which resulted in getting it plugged with dirt, which then blew one of the housing seals out. When I pulled the brake hose/vent off, it pulled a good vacuum with it, sounded like a snake hissing.
The thing leaks oil bad, as before, from one of the two housing seals, or both. THe pinion seal does not leak, nor do the wheel seals. The oil inside is a scary dark gray color, but still has plenty in it.
So all that said, should I just do a seal refresh, or a total rebuild? I do not know how yet, but would like to learn. I do not plan to change gears, unless they old ones are worn out.
Also, first things first, how do you take the pumpkin out, do you need to pull the shafts first?
Thanks for any help!
Ok, here is what I know, its the stock 9 inch, 3.50 ratio, lotta miles on it, dont know exactly how many tho. The vent tube was ripped off at the nipple, which resulted in getting it plugged with dirt, which then blew one of the housing seals out. When I pulled the brake hose/vent off, it pulled a good vacuum with it, sounded like a snake hissing.
The thing leaks oil bad, as before, from one of the two housing seals, or both. THe pinion seal does not leak, nor do the wheel seals. The oil inside is a scary dark gray color, but still has plenty in it.
So all that said, should I just do a seal refresh, or a total rebuild? I do not know how yet, but would like to learn. I do not plan to change gears, unless they old ones are worn out.
Also, first things first, how do you take the pumpkin out, do you need to pull the shafts first?
Thanks for any help!
- MadMaxetc
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You are on the right track with cleaning it first.
You will need to pull the axles out the get the pumkin out.
I just did this on mine that was in the same condition as yours.
Pumkin and Axles out, cran it realy good. Paint. Then install new bearings and seals (For the bearings you will need a BIG press (5ton)) on the axles. Check the pumpkin and gears to make sure they are OK (most likely are fine) then just put it back together. I would do all new brakes and be sure to fix the vent problem.
Good luck!
You will need to pull the axles out the get the pumkin out.
I just did this on mine that was in the same condition as yours.
Pumkin and Axles out, cran it realy good. Paint. Then install new bearings and seals (For the bearings you will need a BIG press (5ton)) on the axles. Check the pumpkin and gears to make sure they are OK (most likely are fine) then just put it back together. I would do all new brakes and be sure to fix the vent problem.
Good luck!
Dan
Project: '63 F-100 LWB / 460 / C6 / 2x4 / Work In Progress!
Daily Driver: '67 F-250 Converted to F-100 LWB / 300 / T-5 / 9" 3.70:1 / 235/75R15 Tires
1/4 mile in 17.64s @ 75mph (it's 4200lbs!!!)
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Project: '63 F-100 LWB / 460 / C6 / 2x4 / Work In Progress!
Daily Driver: '67 F-250 Converted to F-100 LWB / 300 / T-5 / 9" 3.70:1 / 235/75R15 Tires
1/4 mile in 17.64s @ 75mph (it's 4200lbs!!!)
"Work Harder! Millions On Welfare Depend On YOU!!"
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re: Rebuilding the rear end
Darrman,
"Pressed-on" axle shaft bearings on 9" Ford axles can be dangerous.
Even after "torching" the outer case of the bearing off it's still dangerous.
IMO you should leave the axle bearings to the machine shop which usually only charges like $35 per bearing to do this.
Basketcase
A word of advice, don't attempt this unless you have really big...well I hope you get the point!(For the bearings you will need a BIG press (5ton)) on the axles.
"Pressed-on" axle shaft bearings on 9" Ford axles can be dangerous.
Even after "torching" the outer case of the bearing off it's still dangerous.
IMO you should leave the axle bearings to the machine shop which usually only charges like $35 per bearing to do this.
Basketcase
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
- MadMaxetc
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Re: re: Rebuilding the rear end
Yes, always stay within you risk zone. I say risk zone because if you never took a "risk"/did something new, you would never learn.basketcase0302 wrote:Darrman,
A word of advice, don't attempt this unless you have really big...well I hope you get the point!(For the bearings you will need a BIG press (5ton)) on the axles.
"Pressed-on" axle shaft bearings on 9" Ford axles can be dangerous.
Even after "torching" the outer case of the bearing off it's still dangerous.
IMO you should leave the axle bearings to the machine shop which usually only charges like $35 per bearing to do this.
Basketcase
I have done these before and have the right tools, so I think of it as a low risk, but if you don't know exactly what to do and don't have the right tools, take it to someone who does.
Dan
Project: '63 F-100 LWB / 460 / C6 / 2x4 / Work In Progress!
Daily Driver: '67 F-250 Converted to F-100 LWB / 300 / T-5 / 9" 3.70:1 / 235/75R15 Tires
1/4 mile in 17.64s @ 75mph (it's 4200lbs!!!)
"Work Harder! Millions On Welfare Depend On YOU!!"
FORD Girl
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Project: '63 F-100 LWB / 460 / C6 / 2x4 / Work In Progress!
Daily Driver: '67 F-250 Converted to F-100 LWB / 300 / T-5 / 9" 3.70:1 / 235/75R15 Tires
1/4 mile in 17.64s @ 75mph (it's 4200lbs!!!)
"Work Harder! Millions On Welfare Depend On YOU!!"
FORD Girl
Photobucket Pictures
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re: Rebuilding the rear end
Other than its apart,if the axle(wheel bearing)doesn't have any play to it or doesn't leak---why change it. Just a Q or an observation for my own knowledge. I had mine apart and didn't,but I don't plan on a daily driver either.I did however change the pinion seal(leaked like a sive)and wasn't told about any "lash"---would like some more input on that.I needed a slide hammer to get the axles out
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- MadMaxetc
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Re: re: Rebuilding the rear end
He said his seals are leeking so he does need to pull the axles. Might as well clean it all out if you have it that far.67mann wrote: Other than its apart,if the axle(wheel bearing)doesn't have any play to it or doesn't leak---why change it. Just a Q or an observation for my own knowledge. I had mine apart and didn't,but I don't plan on a daily driver either.I did however change the pinion seal(leaked like a sive)and wasn't told about any "lash"---would like some more input on that.I needed a slide hammer to get the axles out
As for the slide hammer, if you have one use it. I don't so I fliped the drum around and put the nuts back on a little, then used it like a slide hammer. Only took 4 pulls to get it out.
Dan
Project: '63 F-100 LWB / 460 / C6 / 2x4 / Work In Progress!
Daily Driver: '67 F-250 Converted to F-100 LWB / 300 / T-5 / 9" 3.70:1 / 235/75R15 Tires
1/4 mile in 17.64s @ 75mph (it's 4200lbs!!!)
"Work Harder! Millions On Welfare Depend On YOU!!"
FORD Girl
Photobucket Pictures
Project: '63 F-100 LWB / 460 / C6 / 2x4 / Work In Progress!
Daily Driver: '67 F-250 Converted to F-100 LWB / 300 / T-5 / 9" 3.70:1 / 235/75R15 Tires
1/4 mile in 17.64s @ 75mph (it's 4200lbs!!!)
"Work Harder! Millions On Welfare Depend On YOU!!"
FORD Girl
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Thanks for the info, I am going to tear into it this weekend. I had all new rear brake hose/lines bent up today, whatta deal, three steel lines and the rubber hose with clips, all for $68 total, stuff looks great!
Bad news, the vent is probably toast, I cleaned it out real good, but I cant get any air to pass through it. I am going to try using the compressor tomorrow, but after that I guess its time for a trip to the junkyard again (been a long time).
Bad news, the vent is probably toast, I cleaned it out real good, but I cant get any air to pass through it. I am going to try using the compressor tomorrow, but after that I guess its time for a trip to the junkyard again (been a long time).
- basketcase0302
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re: Rebuilding the rear end
Darrman,
Basketcase
I'd had them so neglected and so clogged before that I had to drill them out!the vent is probably toast, I cleaned it out real good, but I cant get any air to pass through it.
Basketcase
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
- F100builder
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re: Rebuilding the rear end
If you are replacing the pinion seal, you should reassemble with a new crush sleeve and pinion nut! Your lash should be fine if it was fine before as you don't need to pull the actual pinion gear/shaft out and disturb the shims. However, when reassembling, the proper bearing preload is needed and you need a good breaker bar with appropriate socket and an INCH-pound torque wrench. I highly recommend this guy's DVD's: http://www.badshoeproductions.com/ I think he's retired now but was a Ford master technician.
I got his 9" Ford rebuild video when I rebuilt my first 9" and it made it incredibly easy. I'd like to get his transmission DVD too.
I got his 9" Ford rebuild video when I rebuilt my first 9" and it made it incredibly easy. I'd like to get his transmission DVD too.
Patrick
'56 F100; Must.II IFS, 351W bored & stroked to 395c.i. 470hp/483ft-lbs., AOD, 4-link coilover 9" w/ 3.89's
'69 F100; 390, C6, Dana 60 w/ 4.10's
'70 F100; 'new' and latest project soon to have a built 390/C6 and 3.50 gears
To see more of my F100's: http://www.cardomain.com/id/lowfat56
'56 F100; Must.II IFS, 351W bored & stroked to 395c.i. 470hp/483ft-lbs., AOD, 4-link coilover 9" w/ 3.89's
'69 F100; 390, C6, Dana 60 w/ 4.10's
'70 F100; 'new' and latest project soon to have a built 390/C6 and 3.50 gears
To see more of my F100's: http://www.cardomain.com/id/lowfat56
- 67mann
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re: Rebuilding the rear end
THX for the input---F100---I just might hook up on that DVD---someday I may want to switch to 2wheel peel and it would be helpful to know what I was getting into.
I've had enough and I'm not alone
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