C4 installation?

Clutch, transmission, rear axle

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jguajardotx
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C4 installation?

Post by jguajardotx »

I am gonna install a c4 to my 240 inline this weekend and I was wondering if I should bolt the torque convertor to the fly wheel 1st or to the tranny? Does it make any difference? Any tips maybe that could ease the process would be nice. Thanks
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Post by fordman »

if the engine is in the truck i would put the whole trans togther including the torque converter and then put it in. i have also always filled the converter with fluid first . because it is quicker to refill the trans after its already in. plus some guys say it helps get flud to the bushing and front pump faster if its filled before the first start.
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re: C4 installation?

Post by FORDification »

Definitely install the torque converter on the transmission first and then install the transmission.
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re: C4 installation?

Post by jguajardotx »

Thanks for the help. Any specific fluid I should be looking for?
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Post by fordman »

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re: C4 installation?

Post by basketcase0302 »

jguajardotx,
When sliding the torque converter into the tranny bell-housing...
Make sure you "hear" three distinctive "clicks" as the two go together!
Did it/done it...I believe the third click has something to do with the transmission pump.

Also what these guys said for sure. :yt:

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re: C4 installation? A different sort of problem....

Post by cdherman »

I am going to hijack this post, as I am doing the same thing and made the following observation today:

My father and I installed a C4 in my 65 today. Good thing he was helping, as I would have never gotten it by myself and even then I think we kind of shoehorned it in.

The C4 I got was from a mustang with a 302. It has the large housing, flywheel (164 tooth) and 12" torque convertor. It also has the long tailshaft. Looks like a "conehead". It is a case fill transmission -- early C4's were panfill, but everything I have read says that casefill trannies are fine, so long as you have the right bell (which I have)

The C4 in 65 would have been a panfill.

The 65 shop manual, as well as chiltons makes installation/removal sound pretty easy. They didn't mention that it would hang up so bad on the firewall and mid crossmember that I needed to remove the tailhousing AND even then, still pry the bellhousing over the crossmember with brute force.....

We got it in. It was a royal bugger..... Even with the tailhousing off, the output shaft hits on the middle cab cross member and keeps you from tipping the tranny forward. This in turn means the bottom of the bell catches on the middle cross member and the top of the bell hits the firewall right forward of the hump cutout.

So my question. Can it be that C4 trannies in trucks ALL got the short tailhousing? I have seen pictures of them, and that is what is shown in my manual in ONE picture, though in another picture, it shows the long tailhousing (like from a car).

With a short tailhousing, I think this would have went in just as described in the manual.

If it is true that trucks got short tailhousings, then I can tell you now, there is a REALLY GOOD REASON TO STICK WITH THAT DECISION BY FOMOCO!!!!!!!!!!
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Post by craftsman »

That middle crossmember should have been removed for installation. You would have to drill out the rivots and reinstall with grade 8 bolts and nuts. The job would have been a lot easier. I don't think the length of the tailhousing is a big issue, you will probalbly have to have driveshaft modified to fit. :thup:
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Post by cdherman »

OK, it seems to be true -- friends from over at fordtruk.com also verify that the middle crossmember between the radius arms needs to be removed (and later re-installed).

As we started, we immediately realized there was a problem, and then we went to the Shop Manual (a 65) and also a Chiltons and they said NOTHING about removing the middle cross member.

So we thought we were just missing something.

I still think it is possible that in 65 at least, the C4 trannys in trucks had the short, bolt on yoke tail housing. This would have been easier and probably worked as the shop manual indicated.

In any case, any future readers, BE FOREWARED! For an automatic transmission to be removed and installed, at least if it has a long tailhousing, I am now sure that you should grind out the rivets and remove the middle cross member as well.
65 f-100 SWB, 240 I6, T-18, now swapped to C4 with difficulty. Yeah, I know. Its a 67-72 site. But my frame and entire drive train are just like yours!!!!
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