Brake Drum Woes Update w/PICS

Suspension, steering, brakes, wheels & tires

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FoMoCo
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Brake Drum Woes Update w/PICS

Post by FoMoCo »

Hey all, I figued out that my brakes pulling hard left was because the front drums were different in both inside diameter and manufacture. All harware, lines, hoses, and shoes were replaced, but the machine shop obviously doesn't know how to mic. the inner diameter. Any how my problem is that the new Raybestos drum cracked when I installed it.

I removed the old drums by taking off the drum and hub as one. It took one good hit with a 6 pound copper slug to separate. Also note, that I installed new wheel studs. When I put the new drum on, I reinstalled the hub then put the drum on, then the wheel. I slowly went round tightening the lugs in till I reached 120 ft.lbs. I tighted each lug any one turn at a time. I heard a pop about half way, removed the wheel an there was crack from one lug hole to the center opening hole. There was also breakage around each lug shoulder. Should the drum have to fit so tight? Should it be loose enough to remove the drum by hand? Maby the shoulders on the new lugs are too large? A new drum is on it's way, should I clearance the lugs holes in the drum to allow the lug shoulder to insert easyer? I'm leaning towards reeming out the the drums lug holes just enough so it tight but not to were it will break.

The first pic shows the breakage that occured each hole. The second pic shows an old lug's shoulder coming up through the hole. This took a good pounding to get the old lug in there. The new ones are even tighter. The rear drums nearly fall off when the wheel is removed. My 67's narrower drums will fall off with a slight tappping from a plastic hammer. Shouldn't these fall off with slight tapping too??? Rock Auto .com shows the front studs to have a tall shoulder and the rear to have a shorter one. I think releaving the drum's lugs hole to make it snug will work.
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Nick
Last edited by FoMoCo on Tue Jan 29, 2008 6:45 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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basketcase0302
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re: Brake Drum Woes

Post by basketcase0302 »

Nick,

I would guess they gotta be giving you the wrong drum. You shouldn't have to enlarge the holes for the stud to make the drum fit.
How about the hub opening on the new drum? Is it large enough to clear the hub when installing?

Yes, you should have the brake adjusters tightened just enough so the drum is tight sliding on. Then do any finish adjustments, (tighten or loosen) after road testing to see if it pulls either way.

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two-bit
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re: Brake Drum Woes

Post by two-bit »

You said that you are putting in new wheel studs.
Be careful with those wheel studs. If i remember correctly there is a difference when it comes to the studs between the front and back.

I think the ribbing on the front studs are supposed to be tapered so they "gently" seat in to the holes on the front drum.
The rears are a shoulder cut because they only go through the hub.

I'm not completely sure about this, but it would cause the breakage at the stud holes you describe.

Also check the hub hole diameter in your new rim. Make sure it fits"snug" not "tight" around the race cut in the hub.

Good luck

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re: Brake Drum Woes Update w/PICS

Post by flyboy2610 »

The drums have to be pressed onto the hubs. You can't draw them on with the lug nuts.
After buying a new drum, have a machine shop press it on to the hub.
Sorry. :(
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