Axle Questions
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- nikon4u
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Axle Questions
What is a 9" dif. and how do I know what I have and is this a good thing to have or can you upgrade?
I do know that I have a 3.25 Ford Axle and is this a good one or a crappy one?
I also have some grey ooze comming out of the rear axle in the brake drum, what do I have to do to fix this?
Thanks,
Chris in KC
I do know that I have a 3.25 Ford Axle and is this a good one or a crappy one?
I also have some grey ooze comming out of the rear axle in the brake drum, what do I have to do to fix this?
Thanks,
Chris in KC
- wekelm
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re: Axle Questions
The ooze in your brake drum is oil from the differential. You need to replace the seal in the housing. The seal is only a couple of bucks and pretty easy to replace. If your differential has a carrier for the gears that comes out of the front then it is a nine inch. Hoe this helps
Bill K.
'71 F100 custom
'89 Probe LX
U.S. Army Retired
'71 F100 custom
'89 Probe LX
U.S. Army Retired
- nikon4u
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re: Axle Questions
So to change the seal I have to do what, go through the brake drum or remove the drive shaft and the diff cover?
- wekelm
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re: Axle Questions
If it's a 9 inch. Remove the brake drum. undo the 4 bolts holding the axle in. pull the axle out then you'll have access to the seal. Pull the old seal and then put the new seal in and replace axle and brake drum.
Bill K.
'71 F100 custom
'89 Probe LX
U.S. Army Retired
'71 F100 custom
'89 Probe LX
U.S. Army Retired
- nikon4u
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re: Axle Questions
Would I replace the bearing too?
- wekelm
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re: Axle Questions
Sorry the seal I'm talking about is in the axle housing not on the axle. As long as the bearing spins freely and doesn't have a lot of lateral movement it should not need replacing. if you decide to replace the bearings though you'll have to take the axles to a shop to have them pressed off and new ones on.
Bill K.
'71 F100 custom
'89 Probe LX
U.S. Army Retired
'71 F100 custom
'89 Probe LX
U.S. Army Retired
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re: Axle Questions
If your truck has a removable rear cover, it's a Dana 60. If that rear cover area is completely smooth, than you've got a 9". The 9" Ford rearend is about the strongest rearend you can get and is normally the rearend of choice for anyone requiring a super heavy-duty differential. In fact, even drag-racers with vehicles other than Ford will modify the mounting to use the 9". Aftermarket support is superb and there really isn't anything you can get for or do with a 9".
The ooze you're describing is 90-weight oil, used by the rearend for lubrication. However, it should be brown. If it's grey, then you've gotton some water in there, which has mixed with the oil. Not good. You're going to have to completely drain the rearend, rinse and wipe it out, and refill with clean 90-wt.
A leaky axle seal, which is what you've got, can be caused by two things. The first thing to check, which is the simplest, is the axle breather, mounted on top. It's just a rubber hose attached to an axle tube. It allows the rearend to breathe. During normal operation the internals will build a little pressure, which is normally expelled out the breather tube. If the tube is clogged, the pressure finds it way out the only only place it can....the axle seals. The second is a bad axle seal.
The ooze you're describing is 90-weight oil, used by the rearend for lubrication. However, it should be brown. If it's grey, then you've gotton some water in there, which has mixed with the oil. Not good. You're going to have to completely drain the rearend, rinse and wipe it out, and refill with clean 90-wt.
A leaky axle seal, which is what you've got, can be caused by two things. The first thing to check, which is the simplest, is the axle breather, mounted on top. It's just a rubber hose attached to an axle tube. It allows the rearend to breathe. During normal operation the internals will build a little pressure, which is normally expelled out the breather tube. If the tube is clogged, the pressure finds it way out the only only place it can....the axle seals. The second is a bad axle seal.
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
- nikon4u
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re: Axle Questions
There is no breather on top, but I did find a tag on the side of it with "25 6HC 313" on it.
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re: Axle Questions
looking at the rearend, on the left side, where the brake lines split, that bolt doohickey, that is the breather. shoud be an old piece of line, looks like rubber brake hose, on it....
- nikon4u
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re: Axle Questions
Is this the breather?[/img]
- nikon4u
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re: Axle Questions
Here is a pic of the sludge, and the seal. I am assuming that this is the right direction I need to take?
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re: Axle Questions
Yes, that short piece of hose sticking up is for the vent tube (breather). However, it's a LOT shorter than it's supposed to be. It should extend up and connect to the frame, to keep up high to prevent water from entering the housing.
...and yes, that seal inside the axle tube is what's leaking. Since you don't really have a vent tube to clog (although there could still be some debris in the vent's nipple), more than likely you just have a bad seal. It's an easy fix. Just use a seal puller like THIS ONE to pop the seal out and then just gently tap a new one in.
From the pics you posted it sure doesn't look like the 90-wt is contaminated, so I'll have to leave that decision up to you. If the oil is milky-looking instead of brown, than it is contaminated with water, which would have been very easy considering that the vent tube is virtually gone....otherwise you should be fine just replacing the seal and extending that vent tube.
Good luck!
...and yes, that seal inside the axle tube is what's leaking. Since you don't really have a vent tube to clog (although there could still be some debris in the vent's nipple), more than likely you just have a bad seal. It's an easy fix. Just use a seal puller like THIS ONE to pop the seal out and then just gently tap a new one in.
From the pics you posted it sure doesn't look like the 90-wt is contaminated, so I'll have to leave that decision up to you. If the oil is milky-looking instead of brown, than it is contaminated with water, which would have been very easy considering that the vent tube is virtually gone....otherwise you should be fine just replacing the seal and extending that vent tube.
Good luck!
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
- hardtailjohn
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re: Axle Questions
I agree Keith... I was waiting to see some really bad looking stuff, and that doesn't look bad at all... unless we aren't seeing the way it really is, because of a picture.
While it's out, I'd check the bearing and race for any sign of pitting or wear and replace it now, as you already have the hard part done (getting the axel out).
John H.
While it's out, I'd check the bearing and race for any sign of pitting or wear and replace it now, as you already have the hard part done (getting the axel out).
John H.
Never trust a grinning idiot holding a big hammer!
- nikon4u
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re: Axle Questions
I just pulled out the other side, and found that I have 2 different axles. The left has an oil seal, and no retainer clip, but it also has metal shavings where the bearing lock has worn on the oil seal. The right side has a retainer clip but no oil seal in it at all. Not to mention that the bearings look different, could be just different brands I suppose.
- nikon4u
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re: Axle Questions
by the way, how do I get a pic in the post instead of the way I am doing it?