Rear Axle locked up

[MaxKlinger]

I am able to back up ~ 8" (almost like a strong 'rock' backwards) before SOMETHING *** NEED TO KNOW WHAT *** locks up and the truck will not back up any further. Likewise going forwards.

Are the drum brakes on our trucks self adjusting? On some passenger cars the drum brakes would adjust themselves by way of a ratcheting mechanism when you went in reverse. Is it possible, if we have this type of self adjusting brakes, that a malfunction in this system would apply full braking upon movement?

I doubt it, but just a thought.

[Bonnie_72_F100]

I do not know if the drums are self-adjusting. How could I identify this?

Also, I may be bleeding the brakes tomorrow (I was out all this past week in DC for business, sorry for the lack of updates!). Anyone recommend a specific brake fluid brand for this? Also, I looked for a manual on F.com & could not find one. I found some basics via google; something about using a turkey baster to remove old brake fluid from master cylinder then add fresh fluids and begin pumping out the old stuff (being careful not to let air in). Is that the gist of it all?

Thanks & wish me luck.

Cooke

[MaxKlinger]

I've used a turkey baster to suck the fluid out of a power steering reservior before. Best dollar I ever spent. Probably works just find for brake master cylinders, too. Don't siphon brake fluid with your mouth, it's really harmful stuff.

[Tim P.]

I've always used a baby snot sucker for the evac of fluids from M/C and add a small hose to it for the P/S unit that way it doesnt spit back when you pull it out to squirt it in a coffee can. A turkey baster doesnt seem to hold the fluids as well when lifted out to empty.

[fordman]

yes the drum brakes are self adjusting. they have the star wheel at the bottom of the set of shoes with a cable that runs up inside the one rear of the shoe and that is part odf the self adjuter.

[Bonnie_72_F100]

Alright Gentlemen... let the fun begin. I'm going to resolve once & for all the trans vs. axle debate. The goal is to drop the drivetrain and see if she rolls to isolate either the trans or differential as the problem.

I'll be bleeding the brakes (whether it's actually needed or not later tonight when help arrives).

As you know, I know next to nothing about doing this (dropping the drive train so here are some pictures to help you all show me what the hell to do)

I believe that this picture:


is the carrier bearing. The driveshaft does rotate smoothly on both sides of this bearing when I rotate it. Does it need to be replaced if it's operating smoothly? I'm asking now because it'd be easier to do once I had 1/2 the driveshaft off anyways...

Also, to remove the back 1/2 of the drive shaft, I think I need to remove these four bolts:



and then slide the shaft towards the carrier bearing (as in the picture above). Please let me know if this all sounds right!

Thanks guys.

Cooke

[gmcjimmy88]

Vheck to see if the shift linkage is moving at the transmission wyhile some-one is moving the lever on the column. You might get lucky and it could be a linkage problem? Just a thought.

[Bonnie_72_F100]

Vheck to see if the shift linkage is moving at the transmission wyhile some-one is moving the lever on the column. You might get lucky and it could be a linkage problem? Just a thought.

88, can you elaborate on this? Sounds like maybe a possible external fix (which I'd love!)... where on the trans does the shift linkage connect to the trans?

Thanks.

Cooke

[gmcjimmy88]

Not 100% certain on your trans but most of the time it would be out of the side of the trans.

This is a chevrolet (searched for a ford but nothing came up) trans but gives you an idea. http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/i ... 6&ei=UTF-8
Look at the linkage should run to the side of the trans. Maybe someone could elaberate more on this.

[fordman]

check the linkage and or steering column to see if it is free or not. how are the cab mounts on the front of the cab are they rotted out? if the linkage llooks right then remove the linkage fromn the trans and see if its still free if not it could be the linkage or the column or the cab mounts rotted out and causing the linkage to jam up. if that is all free then the parking pawl could be stuck inside the trans. you can drop the pan to see how it is stuck. and then you can deternine how to unstick it. if you take it to a shop it won't cost as much as a saturn or the orignal price those other guys wanted to charge you either.

[DuckRyder]

The shift linkage goes from the steering column to the transmission. The transmission end of it is on the drivers side. One of the levers is the shift, one is the kickdown. This is a C6, a C4 or FMX should be similar.

Linkage is marked with black arrows. (If any one knows how to change the color of Preset Shapes in Corel Paintshop Pro Photo, I would love to hear it.)

On a C6 the parking linkage can be accessed by pulling the pan and the pawl itself can be accessed on a longbed by pulling the extension housing. The gear itself is behind the Governor distribution sleeve and I've never been that far, but the rest of it is accessible. Note: if you do pull the extension housing, you do NOT have to pull the large nut and yoke, the output shaft will come out with the extension housing.

[DuckRyder]

Oh, this post on 460 ford has a lot of good pictures of the innards of a C6.

http://www.460ford.com/viewtopic.php?t=14248

If you look at the post "Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 9:35 pm Post subject: " by "jones" you can see the park pawl actuating rod in several of the photos. (like the second one and last one)

[Bonnie_72_F100]

Wow. Thanks guys. Those are some great pictures & links. I hope that I never ever ever have to see that much of my own internal transmission (wow... that's a lot of parts & things I know nothing about).

Yes, to answer your question, the cab mount is severely rusted. I'll post pictures soon for you all to see of the linkage & cab mounts and we'll go from there.

Thanks again. Someday I'll get this darn truck out of "P"

Cooke

[Bonnie_72_F100]

Well, despite the mounts being rusted, the linkage feels like it's in good shape. sorry i haven't posted pictures... 4 mo. old daughter has had a rough few weeks.

Anyways, I got the '72 transmission manual from haynes (off LMC truck) yesterday. So I'm going to start reading up. In a few weeks I'll have some people up & we'll pull the current/original one out.

Quick questions re: trans swapping:
1. I found one @ a local junkyard, being offered @ $150 (if I pick it up). Is this a reasonable deal and how do I know the transmission is actually a working transmission?
2. How much does a c6 actually weigh?
3. How likely is it that when I get the current one off, I'll be able to replace (easily?) JUST the parking pin/spring and have it fully functional again?
4. Assuming I have the help of at least one other person (who has not removed a transmission either) how long should I anticipate it'd take to get the old one out/off?
5. Torque convertor - should it be replaced (regardless of its condition) when the transmission is off? Is there anything else, that because the transmission is off, should be replaced immediately/just-in-case?

Thanks guys.

[Bonnie_72_F100]

Thanks avg.

Any advice on:
"3. How likely is it that when I get the current one off, I'll be able to replace (easily?) JUST the parking pin/spring and have it fully functional again?
4. Assuming I have the help of at least one other person (who has not removed a transmission either) how long should I anticipate it'd take to get the old one out/off?
5. Torque convertor - should it be replaced (regardless of its condition) when the transmission is off? Is there anything else, that because the transmission is off, should be replaced immediately/just-in-case?"

?

I was under Bonnie this morning (as my wife calls, "looking up her skirt" ) and seeing how much of a pain in the butt getting that c6 out would be. It looks surprisingly easy. All the bolts are loosen a little now except for the large bolts on the two braces that go under the transmission. Those bolts are on their TIGHT. Any suggestions on how to get those loose!?

Thanks,
Cooke