Rear Axle locked up

[Bonnie_72_F100]

So I had it @ the local shop. They called my wife (my cell phone was dead...) and said that it'd be $1k to even drag it from their parking lot & get it lifted up.

Wifey gave me that message while I was @ work & I almost went through the roof. I called the shop & I said, "I actually saw it roll when being towed. I know this is possible. Is the figure you quoted my wife just a polite way of saying 'F' off and take your classic truck somewhere else?" He chuckled under his breath and before he could respond I said, "I'll have it towed by the end of the day. Thanks anyways".

So, long story short, Bonnie is back @ the house. Rear axle or transmission or something still locked up. She still runs though... so, I guess I'll just slowly work on it.

Symptoms:
1. Back axle does not rotate
2. Brake release in cab does not release e-brake pedal
3. The red "e-brake-is-on-light/indicator" in cab stays on

Stuff I've counted out:
1. Drums rusted to shoes. I've been able to get the drums off & knocked the rust off of them a bit

Clues:
1. When towed hard from the front, the back axle rotated... (does this mean anything?)

Let's work this out guys... thanks for any feedback you can provide!

[customcrewcab]

put the back up and jack stands and remove the drivshaft from the rear yoke. see if the wheels rotate then. if not i would remove the rear drums then see.

[Blue Cloud]

The first thing I'd do is pull the gears from the rearend, That way you'd get a good look at the gears.(post pics) : Sounds to me that is where your problem is. If it is the differential thats the problem you could take it and get it rebuilt or just get one from a junk yard. Alot of old Fords, full size cars and 1/2 ton trucks, had the 9" rearends.

[MaxKlinger]

put the back up and jack stands and remove the drivshaft from the rear yoke. see if the wheels rotate then.

You need to isolate exactly which component has the problem. I'd drop the driveshaft and see if it rolls. If it doesn't, it's the rear; if it does, it's the trans.

Sorry if I missed this, but is your trans a manual or automatic? Has anyone ever heard of a parking pin not disengaging on a C6?

[Bonnie_72_F100]

Excellent from all. Automatic trans (parking pin a possibility?). It really does feel like the parking brakes are just "on".

I'm hoping to get it up on jack stands this weekend and settle (for better or worse) the rear/trans question. Keep your fingers crossed for rear problem!

I'll let you all know hopefully on Sunday how things are going and warning: It'll probably be on this thread with 1000 pictures!

Thanks again!

Cooke

[BobbyFord]

If the parking pawl spring snapped, not allowing the trans to come out of park, the wheels should still move back and forth a little from driveline slop.
You say the axle rotated while being towed from the front-that rules out the "stuck-in-park" theory.

[Bonnie_72_F100]

* I have the truck in neutral and without the parking brake on.
* I have the rear left wheel touching the ground (not jacked up)
* I jacked up the right rear wheel & removed it.

As I was working on the adjuster screw to tighten the shoes as much as possible to facilitate easy removal of the drum I noticed that the drum/axle/drivetrain were rotating! Should all of this be able to rotate even if the left wheel is on the ground??

I worked the adjuster screw on the left rear & got the drum off successfully but cannot remember which direction to turn the screw... when I reach in with my screwdriver should I be rotating that screw up (towards the sky) or down (towards the ground) in order to get the shoes pulled closer together & away from the brake drum?

Thanks!
Cooke

[theskytoucher]

The wheel and drive line moving is normal you have a non locking rearend! And ajusting them smaller should be towards the ground!!!

[Bonnie_72_F100]

Ok... we're rocking but not rolling (yet).

With the back axle rotating by hand, I decided to put the tire back on, get in the truck and see what I could make happen from the driver's seat.

Note: Circular red light with "Brake" on far lower left of dash (near parking brake pull lever) is on despite the fact that the lever & brake are released.

I am able to back up ~ 8" (almost like a strong 'rock' backwards) before SOMETHING *** NEED TO KNOW WHAT *** locks up and the truck will not back up any further. Likewise going forwards.

Thoughts? I'm thinking it's not the transmission for two reasons 1. this truck only has 64k miles on it and 2. that d*mn red 'brake' light is ON on the dash (even when no brakes are on...).

needed.

Thanks guys.

[averagef250]

The brake light is the off center brake switch it is NOT a parking brake indicator. If the brakes work then that light can be reset by bleeding the brakes properly. Search this site for a procedure.

Is the transmission full of fluid? Do you here any clunking noise when the truck stops? Does it stop suddenly or is it a mellow slow down?

[fordman]

you have a bad carrier bearing replace it and your truck will work again. it happened to me also. but i caught it before it totally locked up. yes and bleed your brakes to fix the light like average said.

[Bonnie_72_F100]

Okay. That's two votes for bleeding the brakes which is what I'll do next.

To answer your questions:
Is the transmission full of fluid? I have no idea. Which means, probably a good idea to replace the trans fluid, right?

Do you here any clunking noise when the truck stops? No.

Does it stop suddenly or is it a mellow slow down? It stops, I don't know, 'normally'. No coughing, putting, or shaking or anything.

If I were an idiot that knew nothing about trucks (), where would I find the "carrier bearing" how can I isolate/recognize the "bad" one and how easy/difficult it is to replace?

Looks like I'm going to continue on this path:
1. Bleeding the brakes - find procedure on this site.
2. Replacing the transmission fluid (and filter?)
3. Replacing the carrier bearing (where is this?)

Thanks guys.

[two-bit]

I have been following this thread for a bit.
Here's my .

1) check the level of your trans fluid. Engine running for at least 2-3 minutes for an accurate reading. If it says add, put in a pint. Get it full, not overfull, overfull is bad for C-6's (imho).

2) i wouldn't worry about the brakes at this moment. Yes, it is an issue that needs to be addressed, but not at this moment. ( i don't think your brakes are the problem, although i could be wrong)

3)Your carrier bearing is located on the drive shaft.
If you crawl under your truck and look at the drive shaft you will notice two things. One: the drive shaft has two pieces to it. Two: the front portion of the drive shaft is suspended from a cross member by a large,(almost D-shaped), housing.
That housing is actually a bearing that is press fit onto the front drive shaft. (Thats what Fordman is talking about)
To check it, i would remove the drive shaft, and try rotating the carrier bearing by hand. It should be VERY smooth w/ no resistance.
If you are unsure as how to remove your drive shaft, ask.

Good luck, keep us posted.

Two-bit

[BobbyFord]

Have you pulled the driveshaft yet?

[fordman]

you only have to remove the rear driveshaft to check the carrier bearing.